NEMES1S's build

NEMES1S

Member
Testing out a colour scheme for the machone gun. Thought of going blue to match the armour, but I think this works well

IMG_20180910_164318.jpg
 

NEMES1S

Member
Oooooh, me likey! Curious, how heavy is it?
it looks heavier than it is, it's only a bit heavier than the nerf gun i used to carry. the whole inside of the drum is hollow and i used a combo of pep and 3d print. i was going to foam fill it, but opted for lighter. I was constantly conflicted between strength vs weight. so we will see how it goes.

Wow, cool build! The paint job is sharp, and that wrist computer is AMAZING!
thanks, i took ages to decide on a color and then messed around with different undercoats
 

mumgoot

Member
That is some realistic-looking rust. Unconventional marking looks quite good actually.
 

NEMES1S

Member
That is some realistic-looking rust. Unconventional marking looks quite good actually.
yes well the secret to the rust looking so realistic, is that it's real rust. i couldn't think of anything that looked more like rust than actual rust, so i rusted the armor.
thanks i do like to get out side the box with my markings
 

xXDashIVXx

Well-Known Member
This is absolutely beutiful!! This is one of my favorites ever! I know you so ready posted on this but can you tell me step by step on how you did the damage and weathering! It is so good and I want to replicate it as best as I can on mine too!
 

NEMES1S

Member
show me again the power of mjolnir armour, and i will let nothing stand in our way. i will finish what they started. always remember reach. had to adapt that quote from star wars lol. for the first time since i started building my suit in 2015, i got a full suit up, 2 days left to iron out the kinks and then i finally get to take it out to a con

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NEMES1S

Member
This is absolutely beutiful!! This is one of my favorites ever! I know you so ready posted on this but can you tell me step by step on how you did the damage and weathering! It is so good and I want to replicate it as best as I can on mine too!
alright so here's the rundown.

firstly all my work is in paper, so not sure how well these techniques will go on foam.

there is no substitute for damage like real damage. so it all starts after the piece has been hardened. when using what is commonly called bondo on the outside of the hardened piece i add too much hardener so it cures fast and put it on fairly thick to it gives and uneven layer with pits and holes in it. once it dry i select out the bits i want to keep and then fill and sand the bits i don't want
.11118_10153036526255218_1317564715544065403_n.jpg

once you have painted it in what ever colour you want it's time for the rust.
i use a product called dulux design rust. it is essentially an acrylic medium with iron powder in it, and a rusting agent. which i get from the paint section the local hardware store
DSC01707.JPG

you apply the iron paint on the areas you want and let it dry, now using a sponge you dab on the rusting agent, you dont need to use much at all, you dont want it running or any thing sort of like wiping down a table with a sponge you have squeezed the water out of. now you let it soak in the coat but not dry and flick spot of water on it. i use a spray bottle. the water will make it rust faster and create the lighter colour orage spots you see as opposed to the darker rust. some times you have to give it a few tries or recoats. where i live is quite hot and humid so it rusts faster. once you achieve a look you want you need to seal it with an acrylic sealer. i use liqitex gloss gel.

liquitex-gloss-gel-medium-237ml-9026-5898149-f5fbfa610984f12b7acba8e1a7c1bfdb-product.jpg
once sealed it will stop air getting in and further rusting, i also use this gel because it retains brush strokes, dabbing it on with the paint brush unevenly will create extra texture for the rust. initially when you put it on the whole thing will go dark but once it dries the light orange bits will show again.

next is the grime citadel agrax earthshade is my go to for dirt effects but i have a games worshop close to it is easy to get paint from there, i'm sure you could just water down normal acrylics. i put the stuff on fairly thick as it dries lighter and i make sure to get it in the pits and cracks of the damage liek the dirt would naturally build up.

the final step is to accent the pits and cracks. i use silver rub n buff
DSC01708.JPG
you don't want to use much of this, a small amount goes a long way. i usually put a tiny amount on the tip of a brush give it a few strokes on scrap to get even coat on the brush and then very lightly brush over edges and the tops of the cracks and pits making sure not to get it inside where i have put the earth shade. doing small sections at a time. it dries fast so i work in small sections.


and that is how i achieve my battle damage
 

xXDashIVXx

Well-Known Member
alright so here's the rundown.

firstly all my work is in paper, so not sure how well these techniques will go on foam.

there is no substitute for damage like real damage. so it all starts after the piece has been hardened. when using what is commonly called bondo on the outside of the hardened piece i add too much hardener so it cures fast and put it on fairly thick to it gives and uneven layer with pits and holes in it. once it dry i select out the bits i want to keep and then fill and sand the bits i don't want
.View attachment 260221

once you have painted it in what ever colour you want it's time for the rust.
i use a product called dulux design rust. it is essentially an acrylic medium with iron powder in it, and a rusting agent. which i get from the paint section the local hardware store
View attachment 260222

you apply the iron paint on the areas you want and let it dry, now using a sponge you dab on the rusting agent, you dont need to use much at all, you dont want it running or any thing sort of like wiping down a table with a sponge you have squeezed the water out of. now you let it soak in the coat but not dry and flick spot of water on it. i use a spray bottle. the water will make it rust faster and create the lighter colour orage spots you see as opposed to the darker rust. some times you have to give it a few tries or recoats. where i live is quite hot and humid so it rusts faster. once you achieve a look you want you need to seal it with an acrylic sealer. i use liqitex gloss gel.

View attachment 260223
once sealed it will stop air getting in and further rusting, i also use this gel because it retains brush strokes, dabbing it on with the paint brush unevenly will create extra texture for the rust. initially when you put it on the whole thing will go dark but once it dries the light orange bits will show again.

next is the grime citadel agrax earthshade is my go to for dirt effects but i have a games worshop close to it is easy to get paint from there, i'm sure you could just water down normal acrylics. i put the stuff on fairly thick as it dries lighter and i make sure to get it in the pits and cracks of the damage liek the dirt would naturally build up.

the final step is to accent the pits and cracks. i use silver rub n buff
View attachment 260224
you don't want to use much of this, a small amount goes a long way. i usually put a tiny amount on the tip of a brush give it a few strokes on scrap to get even coat on the brush and then very lightly brush over edges and the tops of the cracks and pits making sure not to get it inside where i have put the earth shade. doing small sections at a time. it dries fast so i work in small sections.


and that is how i achieve my battle damage
Wow. Thank you! I have heard of all of this and worked with most of it, and I will transfer some of it to my foam. I use it because I think it is easier, faster. It is also more conveniant and cheaper for me. I think the battle damage part for me is to put it on and jump and slide over concrete, then smash it with a rock in the places I want gauges... worth a try maybe?
 

NEMES1S

Member
[QUOTE="xXDashIVXx, post: 755996[/QUOTE]

Foam has its advantages, unfortunately I'm terrible at foam haha, I'll get into it one day, paper builds are just too heavy. Yeh give it a go with the concrete and stuff. There's no right or wrong just what works and what doesn't work
 

NEMES1S

Member
Having trouble with the thighs falling down over my knees and making the lack of move ability even worse. Foing a last minute extra strap to connect up the undersuit of my chest since the pants also slip down under all the weight. Normally I wouldn't be using Rondo so close to D'day but I'm desperate so tried to keep the cost thin and keeping the heat gun on it to try get a fast cure time

IMG_20180927_100107.jpg
 

NEMES1S

Member
If you are connecting the thighs to the chest piece, you are going to put too much stress on your shoulders and back. This is something you should be connecting to a belt to balance out the weight.
i should have specified better. i have connected them to some straps at the bottom of my undersuit. that wraps around my waist

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Dirtdives

RXO & Keeper of Con Lists
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
And they are still dropping down? Unusual
 
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