NEMES1S's build

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by NEMES1S, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    show me again the power of mjolnir armour, and i will let nothing stand in our way. i will finish what they started. always remember reach. had to adapt that quote from star wars lol. for the first time since i started building my suit in 2015, i got a full suit up, 2 days left to iron out the kinks and then i finally get to take it out to a con

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  2. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    alright so here's the rundown.

    firstly all my work is in paper, so not sure how well these techniques will go on foam.

    there is no substitute for damage like real damage. so it all starts after the piece has been hardened. when using what is commonly called bondo on the outside of the hardened piece i add too much hardener so it cures fast and put it on fairly thick to it gives and uneven layer with pits and holes in it. once it dry i select out the bits i want to keep and then fill and sand the bits i don't want
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    once you have painted it in what ever colour you want it's time for the rust.
    i use a product called dulux design rust. it is essentially an acrylic medium with iron powder in it, and a rusting agent. which i get from the paint section the local hardware store
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    you apply the iron paint on the areas you want and let it dry, now using a sponge you dab on the rusting agent, you dont need to use much at all, you dont want it running or any thing sort of like wiping down a table with a sponge you have squeezed the water out of. now you let it soak in the coat but not dry and flick spot of water on it. i use a spray bottle. the water will make it rust faster and create the lighter colour orage spots you see as opposed to the darker rust. some times you have to give it a few tries or recoats. where i live is quite hot and humid so it rusts faster. once you achieve a look you want you need to seal it with an acrylic sealer. i use liqitex gloss gel.

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    once sealed it will stop air getting in and further rusting, i also use this gel because it retains brush strokes, dabbing it on with the paint brush unevenly will create extra texture for the rust. initially when you put it on the whole thing will go dark but once it dries the light orange bits will show again.

    next is the grime citadel agrax earthshade is my go to for dirt effects but i have a games worshop close to it is easy to get paint from there, i'm sure you could just water down normal acrylics. i put the stuff on fairly thick as it dries lighter and i make sure to get it in the pits and cracks of the damage liek the dirt would naturally build up.

    the final step is to accent the pits and cracks. i use silver rub n buff
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    you don't want to use much of this, a small amount goes a long way. i usually put a tiny amount on the tip of a brush give it a few strokes on scrap to get even coat on the brush and then very lightly brush over edges and the tops of the cracks and pits making sure not to get it inside where i have put the earth shade. doing small sections at a time. it dries fast so i work in small sections.


    and that is how i achieve my battle damage
     
  3. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    Wow. Thank you! I have heard of all of this and worked with most of it, and I will transfer some of it to my foam. I use it because I think it is easier, faster. It is also more conveniant and cheaper for me. I think the battle damage part for me is to put it on and jump and slide over concrete, then smash it with a rock in the places I want gauges... worth a try maybe?
     
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  4. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    [QUOTE="xXDashIVXx, post: 755996[/QUOTE]

    Foam has its advantages, unfortunately I'm terrible at foam haha, I'll get into it one day, paper builds are just too heavy. Yeh give it a go with the concrete and stuff. There's no right or wrong just what works and what doesn't work
     
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  5. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    Well I'd like to get into pepakura, fiberglassing, and resin ;D
     
  6. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    Having trouble with the thighs falling down over my knees and making the lack of move ability even worse. Foing a last minute extra strap to connect up the undersuit of my chest since the pants also slip down under all the weight. Normally I wouldn't be using Rondo so close to D'day but I'm desperate so tried to keep the cost thin and keeping the heat gun on it to try get a fast cure time

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  7. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives RXO & Keeper of Con Lists 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    If you are connecting the thighs to the chest piece, you are going to put too much stress on your shoulders and back. This is something you should be connecting to a belt to balance out the weight.
     
  8. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    i should have specified better. i have connected them to some straps at the bottom of my undersuit. that wraps around my waist

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  9. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives RXO & Keeper of Con Lists 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    And they are still dropping down? Unusual
     
  10. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    yeah i think i may have made them a tad too heavy and slightly too long. i did have trouble getting the scale right on them and had to cut and add bits to make them fit
     
  11. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives RXO & Keeper of Con Lists 405th Regiment Officer Community Staff

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    You make have to scinch up the straps or go with something non elastic. Nylon webbing. Unfortunately that will reduce your mobility tremendously.
     
  12. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    finally got my suit out to it's first con. it went pretty well. only a little bit of damage to one of the boots. the old mobility was pretty much non existent, and im still sore but it was heaps of fun and the costume was well liked. against all odds i even ran into an odst.

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  13. lordhood32

    lordhood32 Member

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    looks good mate
     
  14. mumgoot

    mumgoot Member

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    Nice job, really captures the tough look of the

    I just got rub n buff and I am going to use it on the painted surface of my boomco magnum mod. Does it need to be sealed, or does it just dry like paint? I don't want it rubbing off obviously.
     
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  15. SI3RRA 117

    SI3RRA 117 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome build man. I have yet to “complete” any builds of my own. So must feel pretty dam good to get it done and out to its first appearance!?!?
     
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  16. xXDashIVXx

    xXDashIVXx Active Member

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    I would think that you would need a coat of primer to help it stay on, then a clear coat. If you are just trying to weather a boomco as it is, try it out, and if it wipes off, try something different so it works, but if you don't mind, is try sanding the plastic surface a little, then priming it with the color you want. Then rubnbuff that
     
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  17. mumgoot

    mumgoot Member

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    *Really captures the tough look of Warrior armor.


    Ok. Well, I tried it yesterday, I have a primer coat down so I applied it over that. I didn't use a clear coat. I'm not sure about how well it stays on, but I should find out today, as I had to touch up areas with paint, and I'll have to rub n buff it again. Thanks for the advice.
     
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  18. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    as far as i know it's a wax based paint. i never use primer before rubnbuff. it seems to stick to any surface quite well. it will dull over time but it is not recomended to clear coat over it. just put it on and then buff it to a shine. as the name suggest rub and buff
     
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  19. mumgoot

    mumgoot Member

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    Well, I hope you're right. I hate trying to find good clear coat. Thanks.
     
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  20. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    how did you go with it? when i took my suit out a while back i found the rub n buff had dulled over time, i just gave it a touch up and good as gold
     
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  21. mumgoot

    mumgoot Member

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    I'm not sure, because I haven't finished the gun yet. It does look shiny (the areas where I have rub n buffed it) but I haven't handled it enough to know whether it will wear off or not. I plan on getting a black sharpie for the grip and stuff like that. Then I'll have to see where I'm at for finishing touches. It's been sitting dormant for a long time actually.
     
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  22. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    Haha I alwYal heaps of partially constructed things sitting around fir long periods eaitwai to be finished. The adhesion should be pretty good. I do get a little rub off if I use it for large areas. But doesn't effect the look.
     
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  23. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    Had a partially built centurion helmet sitting around for some time, it's a little warped at the top from sitting so long but going to try straighten it out and get it finished this year on the side of my other builds. Have an event around the middle of the year I want to take the suit out again for. I'm thinking of doing the magnum and CTF flag combo for it, instead of taking the heavy machine gun. Since it's well heavy. See how time goes. I would like to finish the wrist computer but it's not a priority.
     

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  24. Badkitty

    Badkitty Member

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    I think that doing the magnum and CTF flag would be super fun! Which flag red or blue? And...where are you going to get one, because I would love to get my hands on one!! Good luck!
     
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  25. NEMES1S

    NEMES1S Member

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    It would be a red team flag, since my armour is blue might as well go for the capture. I'm thinking I'll have to make it myself. I want to do it in the old reach style with the cobra and not the unsc logo like the newer games. See what I feel like when it comrs time to do it.

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