New recruit - Where to start with Halo 2 ODST costume?


Shinrazilla

New Member
I have never cosplayed or made any costume before. Everything looks pretty simple to make in this one, but I’m having trouble with the various pockets on the outfit and the helmet. I found this photo of an action figure for reference.
C0FAFDF9-E477-4C59-AB80-63124402E82F.jpeg
 

TillXValhalla

Active Member
So the base armor can be made with a few techniques, main ones being 3d print, foam, or pepakura. As for the pouches, you can either buy some for air soft or something like that. It is also possible to make them with foam and cloth. The really big thing is the helmet and the shins. Which again can be foamed or printed. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. And look forward to this.
 

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Sgt Whupass

New Member
The first thing I would recommend is to start with scaling. the greatest helmet ever made that looks like you ripped it right from the game isn't worth a whole lot if it doesn't fit over your head(from a cosplay perspective).
The next thing would be to identify your materials, are you gonna 3d print, Papercraft, foam etc.

If you're planning to go with an ODST you can look up the official 343 Rookie Reference guide Official 343i Cosplay Guide: The Rookie

I'm on my own ODST journey and it help looking through and seeing where you want to focus your efforts, do i REALLY want to go through the time and filament to make a backpack? do i REALLY need fans inside my helmet, etc.

when it comes to those pouches you could look at Airsoft GI, they have a pretty sizable and categorized list of tactical pouches.
 

Cadet

Executive Officer
Division Staff
Community Staff
Member DIN
S111
We don't see a lot of Original Halo 2 ODSTs, but I have always loved their look.

The files we have in The Armory have the Chest Pouches built into the chest armor:

This is due to the very low poly count of the Halo 2 models, where like the Halo CE Mark V and Marines, most of the details came from the textures rather than the actual base model itself. This does give you a good base as to what the size should be, but you will still have to free hand and fabricate a lot of the details seen on the game texture, but not captured in the model. As someone who does a Halo CE style Mark V, it's a pain I know all too well, but it's not an insurmountable obstacle. For example, the Halo CE Mark V has very similar pouches on its belt, but like the Halo 2 ODST, the model simply has them built in as bumps, with no detail.

The pouches can be fabricated out of foam, leather, or fabric, to get as close as possible in shape and the use of the one button snap fastener. Or you can try to find some similar pouches on Military Surplus or Airsoft website, however they won't be as accurate.

As for the helmet, if the original Halo 2 model in the The Armory entry above is not to your liking in that it is too low detail for you, the Halo 2 Anniversary version of the Helmet might be an option:
 

Shinrazilla

New Member
Alright, thanks. I was considering using EVA foam because I do not have a 3D printer. Should I just wing it using photos or is Pepakura a good option? I’m also debating going with a battle rifle or covenant carbine.
 
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PlanetAlexander

Well-Known Member
You can use Pepakura (or Armorsmith) to open and print the .pdo files to use for foam - however, you'll want to modify the files first, which will mean you'll need to purchase either program (I can't remember if you need to pay for Pepakura to edit files, but I know you need to to save them).

Pepakura is designed to make the complex shapes from paper - a thin, unstretchable material. Foam on the otherhand has thickness and can stretch and compress. This needs to be taken into consideration with Pepakura files, as you'll want to remove some geometry to compensate for foam's thickness.

You can also omit the small details in Pepakura because you can reconstruct them from foam, whether that's by adding details or "carving" them in.
 

Cadet

Executive Officer
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Community Staff
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S111
Due to the aforementioned low Polly, Low Detail nature of the Halo 2 Assets, the primary armor pieces should actually be relatively simple to covert from their current state of being intended to be used with Cardstock Paper Pepakura, to being used for foam construction.
 

AugmentedHuman013

DMO and RMO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S613
First - sorry for the late reply, started school again.
Nice cosplay! Are there any materials needed for Pepakura besides paper and foam? And how strong does it hold up? Do you need to be very precise when cutting?


Your glue and markers to transfer the patterns. Foam is for the most part the most durable of the construction methods that are normally done. When putting on a booth atva convention. I normally keep a foam helmet i literally throw as an example. But Its not indestructible.

As for cutting you get out what you put it. Foam gives you wiggle room so you can make some mistakes when cutting. But you want to try to be as exact as you can
 

Shinrazilla

New Member
Your glue and markers to transfer the patterns. Foam is for the most part the most durable of the construction methods that are normally done. When putting on a booth atva convention. I normally keep a foam helmet i literally throw as an example. But Its not indestructible.

As for cutting you get out what you put it. Foam gives you wiggle room so you can make some mistakes when cutting. But you want to try to be as exact as you can
Okay, thanks. Is hot glue enough to keep the parts together or would I need a stronger glue? Also, do I need PlastiDip for the foam?
 

Spiderboy196

Active Member
Okay, thanks. Is hot glue enough to keep the parts together or would I need a stronger glue? Also, do I need PlastiDip for the foam?
Hot glue is mostly use for seams and strengthen the insides/outside of foam armor. Most of folks(me including) use contact cement or forbidden honey to permanently keep foam parts together. You can use plastidip or leak seal for foam
 

AugmentedHuman013

DMO and RMO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S613
Okay, thanks. Is hot glue enough to keep the parts together or would I need a stronger glue? Also, do I need PlastiDip for the foam?


Hot glue isn't really recommended for joining 2 parts. Contact cement or super glue. But if hot glue is all you have access to then it would work. You just have to be cautious about leaving your suit in a car. As the heat will melt the glue.

As for plasti dip. It helpful for evening out the foam for painting. Since Foam absorbs paint. But it is not required in fact there are other things you can use to get the same results. such as watered down pva glue or modge podge. etc.
 

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