Newish of sorts. Why im here of course

[WetOkole]

Well.....about how long do teh testers take to make? For a nooblet?

And is their a tester for each HD model?

LOL...Yeah there is not that much info about making the pep to your perfect size since we all are not equal in size. To break things down for you so you might understand better here you go!!

Robo files are low def you enter your height in inches. ie: I am 5'4 so I add 64 and work around that. My helmet I have sized it to a person about 5'9 since I have a big melon. That would be about 68 for Robo's files.

Flying Squirel / D4FL / Slyfo's files, I was using the scaling method that Jedifraz left I believe and came up with 24.9 and that was with my MK VI helmet. It fits but I noticed that it was just a bit smaller so I went with a bigger number and used 26.0 cm on my CQB helmet.

Just so you know I am using all of the Low Def models done by Robogenisis before all of the HD files were coming out. If you plan on doing size testers you will probably take a day or so depending on what you are doing first. Handplates can take up to 2 to 3 hours from cutting to folding to glueing. Helmets could take about 6 hours cutting, folding, glueing depending on how much time you have. I know that some of the members here that worked on FS HD torso took a bit longer, maybe a week or so, but like I said that depends on how much time you have!

Hope that helps out with anything but you should work on Robo's files first. Testers are actually low def files and there are only for the handplates, bicep, helmet, torso, and forearms. No thighs, shins, or Cod piece

 

[shroom]

Well, I want to do the HD files by FS as my final (and the other normal details since FS doesn't have a full HD suit . But, when I do testers, I just do the normal detail files of the MK VI from Robogenesis? and put them on and figure out how they fit, and if they fit right, I take the assembled height from the ones that fit, and switch them over to the HD files by FS ?

Correct me if i'm wrong. Cookie if i'm right

And thanks for the input WetOkole, it helps. (as did everyone else, like WW, etc. lol)

Any more input is definately appreciated. I'm hoping to start tomorrow, on the handplates.

 

[WetOkole]

Well, I want to do the HD files by FS as my final (and the other normal details since FS doesn't have a full HD suit . But, when I do testers, I just do the normal detail files of the MK VI from Robogenesis? and put them on and figure out how they fit, and if they fit right, I take the assembled height from the ones that fit, and switch them over to the HD files by FS ?

Yes you are correct....can't find the cookie around here! But remember that if you gonna use low def models and then transfer over to HD, use Robos because that way you already have the total height you need and just change over the numbers when you start working on your HD versions.

example again: 64 inches on Robo's files...transfer that into the scaling equation for the Hi-Def files and I get 24.9 cm

 

[shroom]

Wait.......When doing the Robo-to-HD scale transfer....I only use the assembled height from robo's files, once i find out it fits ok, right? Then take the assembled height and "plug it in" my HD files?

 

[werewolf7171]

Well.....about how long do the testers take to make? For a nooblet?

It doesn't tale that long really, that is once you have the process of cutting, folding, and gluing down. Like an hour or two (at least for me) depending on your speed of working and the piece you are building the tester for.

And is their a tester for each HD model?

I think that there is, except for the forearm but you can use the normal definition one for a tester. (I actually think that the testers are only normal definition ones anyways, anyone correct me if I am wrong)


So hope that helps.

EDIT: oh dang WetOkole you beat me to it, but ya like WetOkole said it ultimently depends on how much time you are willing to take to make it good.

 

[WetOkole]

Wait.......When doing the Robo-to-HD scale transfer....I only use the assembled height from robo's files, once i find out it fits ok, right? Then take the assembled height and "plug it in" my HD files?

Just to make sure I am saying this right. Use the scaling method to get your height in cm for the HD files!! Example again...I am 5'4, my size in inches is 64.

Here is the scaling method

Add up your height in inches. There is 12" to a foot. We'll use my hieght for the example. I am 5'4" which equals 64 inches.

Divide that by 86: 64/86 = .744186

Multiply that number times the scale it currently is, 30.342: 30.342*0.744186= 22.580092 <----this goes into the CM box

Now in Pepakura, go into 2dPatternWindow and select "Scale Up/Down by specifying value"

Under scale, put in the new scale (for this equazion its 22.580092). Do this for all of your pieces to be symmetrical.

One thing to keep in mind
The size of the scale that is in use before you edit it is from the base of the ground to the top outside of MC's helmet. You don't really want the top of your head to be touching the top of the inside of the helmet if you expect it to fit right. So you may want to add two or three inches to your actual hieght before doing the math. This may help other areas as well, where it could come through a bit tight.

Now this is what I would've done for the HD models...but like in the bold paragraph, I added 4 to 5 inches on some parts, or some, I just left it at that!

So get the scale from Robos files that fit you then plug the inches into the scaling method then add that number into the CM box

 

[shroom]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(WetOkole @ May 27 2008, 08:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Just to make sure I am saying this right. Use the scaling method to get your height in cm for the HD files!! Example again...I am 5'4, my size in inches is 64.

Here is the scaling method

Add up your height in inches. There is 12" to a foot. We'll use my hieght for the example. I am 5'4" which equals 64 inches.

Divide that by 86: 64/86 = .744186

Multiply that number times the scale it currently is, 30.342: 30.342*0.744186= 22.580092 <----this goes into the CM box

Now in Pepakura, go into 2dPatternWindow and select "Scale Up/Down by specifying value"

Under scale, put in the new scale (for this equazion its 22.580092). Do this for all of your pieces to be symmetrical.

One thing to keep in mind
The size of the scale that is in use before you edit it is from the base of the ground to the top outside of MC's helmet. You don't really want the top of your head to be touching the top of the inside of the helmet if you expect it to fit right. So you may want to add two or three inches to your actual hieght before doing the math. This may help other areas as well, where it could come through a bit tight.

Now this is what I would've done for the HD models...but like in the bold paragraph, I added 4 to 5 inches on some parts, or some, I just left it at that!

So get the scale from Robos files that fit you then plug the inches into the scaling method then add that number into the CM box</div>

Ok....you lost me at your last sentence. I get the scale from robo's files, that his use automatically when I upload the file into pepakura (like it'll be automatically put in the file)...right?

Idk, you totally lost me at the end. Plus, the method you stated only works for Fraz's files right? That what the scaling thread said.

 

[shroom]

Ok, sorry for the doublepost. But I think i might be making this too confusing. I started playing around witht he pep program today to maybe make things a little more clearer.

Could I not just figure out the assembled size that i'd need? Like say measure myself, and throw on about 2 extra inches, then go into pep designer, and enter a scale that fits my height, by looking at the assmebled size (with the 2 inches added)? Like this is in a nutshell, I know i'd have to measure each part like measure just my head for the helmet, but still the same concept). Cuz I figure I'll add about 2.5 inches extra to most of my armor, for padding and whatnot, and look at some reference pics of people with armor on, like Werewolfs arm, and see where it comes down and then try to make mine come out around their.

Is this correct?????

 

[Nicktendo]

Okay, trying an explanation again, with pictures! Just a note to keep in mind, this method is used to find a rough scale. You may need to alter the piece once your size tester is built. Here goes...

1. Decide the piece you want to build. In this example, it's the forearm.
2. Take the low-detail (aka "basic") Robogenisis model, and input your height in inches as the scale. (Boxed in green.) I'm 6'2", so that equals 74 inches, so 74 goes into that box. (Some choose to add a few inches to your height at this stage for padding. That's entirely up to you.)
3. Print and build this model. This is your size tester.
4. Assuming the size is good, (if it isn't, modify it and either rebuild the size tester, or trust your judgement. Again, up to you.) go back into the "basic" low-detail Robo model, and find the assembled height. (In red, on the left.)
5. Apply this assembled height to the HD model. In this case, it's the HD forearm modeled by Nugget. (Shown with an arrow, in red, on the right.) Disreagaurd whatever the "scale" is on this model. It's irrelevant, as long as the assembled heights are the same.
6. This model is now scaled just as your size tester was, so print it out and build it!

I use this method to avoid confusing scaling equations like WetOkole outlined. (Not that there's anything wrong with that way! I just prefer this method.)

 

[shroom]

I see. So if I go about that method, and I find my assmebled height on, say, a robo genesis forearm tester that fits, I take that assembled height, and put it into a FS HD forearm?


one last question, the assembled height, isn't just pertaining to that one part right? your assembled height in the pics says 32.8 cm. Is that for the Head-to-toe full armor?

Sorry bout this again guys . I'm just wanting to get as many questions out of the way, so I can hopefully start on my armor tomorrow when I'm not busy. You guys have all been EXTREMELY helpful, I can't thank you enough.

 

[Nicktendo]

I see. So if I go about that method, and I find my assmebled height on, say, a robo genesis forearm tester that fits, I take that assembled height, and put it into a FS HD forearm?

Yes. Except FS hasn't made a HD forearm. Nugget made that model there.

one last question, the assembled height, isn't just pertaining to that one part right? your assembled height in the pics says 32.8 cm. Is that for the Head-to-toe full armor?

No, that "32.8cm" is just for that piece of armor, meaning that when it's built, it will be 32.cm from end to end. And that won't apply to any other piece. But you'll use the same method for the different parts of armor.

Sorry bout this again guys . I'm just wanting to get as many questions out of the way, so I can hopefully start on my armor tomorrow when I'm not busy. You guys have all been EXTREMELY helpful, I can't thank you enough.

Yeah no problem. That's why we're here. And I feel like I should thank you for asking these questions intelligently. I can't stand noobs who don't clearly specify what they're asking... And I understand how it is, wanting to get started ASAP but there being so many questions. Personally, I was in a place where I couldn't start my armor quite yet, so I had a few months to get everything straightened out before really diving in.

A note I wanted to touch on before you really get into it though... I find that scaling each piece separately can lead to weird looking armor. Like, not consistent. So when you're changing the scale, try and keep it as close as possible. For example, I'm 6'2" = 72", so I try and keep all my pieces scaled as closely to 72 (using the method I explained) as possible. This might be hard, because not many are really built like MC, and maybe something won't fit right, or you won't be able to get it on. Me personally, I'm putting form before function, so I'm having to modify a lot of the pieces so I can get them on. Yes, it's a pain, but I think it'll look better in the end.

When it comes down to it though, it's your armor, so you call the shots.

 

[shroom]

Yes. Except FS hasn't made a HD forearm. Nugget made that model there.
No, that "32.8cm" is just for that piece of armor, meaning that when it's built, it will be 32.cm from end to end. And that won't apply to any other piece. But you'll use the same method for the different parts of armor.
Yeah no problem. That's why we're here. And I feel like I should thank you for asking these questions intelligently. I can't stand noobs who don't clearly specify what they're asking... And I understand how it is, wanting to get started ASAP but there being so many questions. Personally, I was in a place where I couldn't start my armor quite yet, so I had a few months to get everything straightened out before really diving in.

A note I wanted to touch on before you really get into it though... I find that scaling each piece separately can lead to weird looking armor. Like, not consistent. So when you're changing the scale, try and keep it as close as possible. For example, I'm 6'2" = 72", so I try and keep all my pieces scaled as closely to 72 (using the method I explained) as possible. This might be hard, because not many are really built like MC, and maybe something won't fit right, or you won't be able to get it on. Me personally, I'm putting form before function, so I'm having to modify a lot of the pieces so I can get them on. Yes, it's a pain, but I think it'll look better in the end.

When it comes down to it though, it's your armor, so you call the shots.

Thanks, I try to make legible, and readable posts. But since were past that. i tink itz kewl if i strat tlkin like dis frm nowz on! .....Just kidding. lol.

And congrats to all on being one of the friendliest forums I've ever been on, regarding what its about. Great place here, welcoming questions and a hunger for knowledge. Props

So, if I do that method you stated, it should come out relatively close? Should I also give extra inches on every part? Like I plan on really padding the helmet and all, but the chest armor and everything else, will mainly just be filling in the empty spots with something, and some relatively thin padding. Should I still add 2 inches overall, or only to those parts? I'm assuming i would do overall, just to be safe, have some room to play with, but I just thought i'd ask.

Also, like your last post, feel free to throw more info at me your think is important to know. I'm all ears


EDIT: I wasn't sure if their was or wasn't a FS HD forearm, I was just stating a part. And do any of the files actually include testers with them, or is a tester just making the low-def models (if you planned on doing the hi def files, and/or making the forearm once as a tester, then making it again knowing what scale it fits at (since theirs only one of those, the low def file)???

 

[Nicktendo]

So, if I do that method you stated, it should come out relatively close? Should I also give extra inches on every part? Like I plan on really padding the helmet and all, but the chest armor and everything else, will mainly just be filling in the empty spots with something, and some relatively thin padding. Should I still add 2 inches overall, or only to those parts? I'm assuming i would do overall, just to be safe, have some room to play with, but I just thought i'd ask.

Also, like your last post, feel free to throw more info at me your think is important to know. I'm all ears
EDIT: I wasn't sure if their was or wasn't a FS HD forearm, I was just stating a part. And do any of the files actually include testers with them, or is a tester just making the low-def models (if you planned on doing the hi def files, and/or making the forearm once as a tester, then making it again knowing what scale it fits at (since theirs only one of those, the low def file)???

Yeah, it should come out very close. Like I said, I scaled it exactly to my height, adding no 'room' for padding. (After making like 3 Pep helmets, I liked the way it looked at that scale.) And for consistency, I'm keeping all my armor at that scale. (Except for the handplate. That would just look wonky...) But that's why I suggested, if you do plan on adding space, add consistent space. Like, if you're 5'8" = 68", and you want to add 3" for padding, you should try and stay as close to 71 as a scale (when using the Robo models, I mean) when possible. It just doesn't look right to me when the helmet is at a different scale than the chest, ya know? Just my opinion.

And yeah, when we say "size tester" we probably pretty much mean the basic or "low-detail" models. Although I think I mentioned earlier, FS has a link to much lower detailed testers for the Torso and Helm.

 

[shroom]

Yeah, it should come out very close. Like I said, I scaled it exactly to my height, adding no 'room' for padding. (After making like 3 Pep helmets, I liked the way it looked at that scale.) And for consistency, I'm keeping all my armor at that scale. (Except for the handplate. That would just look wonky...) But that's why I suggested, if you do plan on adding space, add consistent space. Like, if you're 5'8" = 68", and you want to add 3" for padding, you should try and stay as close to 71 as a scale (when using the Robo models, I mean) when possible. It just doesn't look right to me when the helmet is at a different scale than the chest, ya know? Just my opinion.

And yeah, when we say "size tester" we probably pretty much mean the basic or "low-detail" models. Although I think I mentioned earlier, FS has a link to much lower detailed testers for the Torso and Helm.

Ahhh. Ok. Its all much clearer now. And I'll suppose I'll do that, with consistent size and all. Except the handplate.


And also, If I used FS size tester, then I couldn't do that whole method of scaling we just talked about, could we? cuz that only works with robo's, but then the assembled height works with whatever. So I'd need to use robo's if I wanted to do it the way we talked about, correct?

 

[WetOkole]

Okay, trying an explanation again, with pictures! Just a note to keep in mind, this method is used to find a rough scale. You may need to alter the piece once your size tester is built. Here goes...

1. Decide the piece you want to build. In this example, it's the forearm.
2. Take the low-detail (aka "basic") Robogenisis model, and input your height in inches as the scale. (Boxed in green.) I'm 6'2", so that equals 74 inches, so 74 goes into that box. (Some choose to add a few inches to your height at this stage for padding. That's entirely up to you.)
3. Print and build this model. This is your size tester.
4. Assuming the size is good, (if it isn't, modify it and either rebuild the size tester, or trust your judgement. Again, up to you.) go back into the "basic" low-detail Robo model, and find the assembled height. (In red, on the left.)
5. Apply this assembled height to the HD model. In this case, it's the HD forearm modeled by Nugget. (Shown with an arrow, in red, on the right.) Disreagaurd whatever the "scale" is on this model. It's irrelevant, as long as the assembled heights are the same.
6. This model is now scaled just as your size tester was, so print it out and build it!

I use this method to avoid confusing scaling equations like WetOkole outlined. (Not that there's anything wrong with that way! I just prefer this method.)

Thanks Nicktendo..

You know how they say "Pictures say a thousand words"! Couldn't have said it better. But yeah it did sound confusing when I was saying it, but I was trying to go off of something that was left in the scaling thread (that I hoped he read) but yeah that way is much easier. I was actually working on a pic then I saw yours but thanks for clearing it up. Do you mind if I use that pic??

 

[shroom]

Ya, I read that sticky. The scaling thread. I think it was quoted from rvb4life, but I may be mistaken. It said they were only for jedifraz's models or something like that. But I'm good now. I'll start on a Low-def robo- model tonight. I shall do something other than the helmet or chest. I haven't decided yet.

 

[Nicktendo]

Ahhh. Ok. Its all much clearer now. And I'll suppose I'll do that, with consistent size and all. Except the handplate.
And also, If I used FS size tester, then I couldn't do that whole method of scaling we just talked about, could we? cuz that only works with robo's, but then the assembled height works with whatever. So I'd need to use robo's if I wanted to do it the way we talked about, correct?

Well yeah, you can use it. Use the Robo helmet to find what assembled height it should be at, then transfer that assembled height to the size tester, and if it works, then transfer it to the HD model. The Robo models are used to find the assembled height, which are pretty much universal from there on out.

Do you mind if I use that pic??

Go for it. Glad to help.

 

[shroom]

Well yeah, you can use it. Use the Robo helmet to find what assembled height it should be at, then transfer that assembled height to the size tester, and if it works, then transfer it to the HD model. The Robo models are used to find the assembled height, which are pretty much universal from there on out.
Go for it. Glad to help.

Alright. But where are the testers for FS's HD pieces? All I can find are just his HD models....?

 

[shroom]

I'm not trying to bump if any accusations fly. I did the low def robo file at 73 inches (Im 5'11'', so thats 60 inches, then add eleven, 71, then 2 inches for padding).

Now my right bicep tester is almost complete.

BUT: Should the top shoulder shield, rest completely level with my shoulder, like the very top part, the shield, shoulds the lip on it be resting on my shoulder? Or should it be raised up?

Cuz I'm starting to wonder on the size scaling here. I know I scaled it right. But idk if i should go smaller or not. ???

 

[Nicktendo]

The reference section is your friend!