Noble 4 Emile 3D printed build (getting pic heavy)

Chooka

New Member
Hello 405th!

So I now have a 3D printer, and I’m going to print myself up a Noble 6 suit! And if all goes well, potentially a Jorge for my buddy, and something for my wife...likely Cat, or Palmer.

After some help from some other members I have started the helmet.

So I’m unsure how it ‘should’ fit right now. So I’ll have to wait till the rest is printed first. But I’m going to have to cut a piece off the back or something to magnetize it for on/off. Any suggestions where?

Also. I’m using a thingiverse file I found. It has some good detail, but if someone has a really good file, I would love to see it!
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Chooka

New Member
Alright, so I’ve printed the helm/lens and I think we’re good!

I have a 3D pen coming to ‘weld’ all the pieces for more stability. Then of course the endless hours sanding and filling.

I’ll need to figure out how to put it on/off, like having a piece of the back come off or something.

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Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Halo characters are weird in a lot of ways, one of which being their heads slipping through the tiny holes in their helmets.

What I/ a lot of people have done is shave away or full on cut out sections at the bottom until ui can get your head through.

Some people have it so they can detach and reattach a portion of the helmet with magnets, but I'm not ab expert at that, so someone else will have to address that if you choose to go that route.
 

Chooka

New Member
Haha I thought about that. But that requires silicon to cast, and some form of medium...otherwise it’s just time on the machine lol. And I can run them while sanding etc. Though moulding is certainly faster!....so I’m going to say maybe.
 

Chooka

New Member
Next is a forearm. Currently printing one out to see the fit. Should I print it split lengthwise? I printed the ‘cuff’ of it, and my hand goes through, but barely. Which isn’t bad, but I’m curious how other people do it. Magnets again?
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Next is a forearm. Currently printing one out to see the fit. Should I print it split lengthwise? I printed the ‘cuff’ of it, and my hand goes through, but barely. Which isn’t bad, but I’m curious how other people do it. Magnets again?
For forearms I just print them on end and let it rip. Magnetic closures are fun and all but I'm a fan of just pressure fit with upholstery foam on the inside to limit rotation.
 

Chooka

New Member
What kind of printer do you have? i was thinking of printing these as well and noticed you split them.
I have an Ender-3. I’m using Windows 3D builder to split the objects. Really easy program for it actually.

Here is the forearm so far! Split in 4 so I don’t need to use copious amounts of supports.

Also colour #3 lol. This thing is gonna be hilarious before paint. End rolls for small bits, full or almost full for big ones...don’t want to run out.
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MoeSizzlac

Member
Yeah! I have tried Pep, and this is a little more up my alley. The post production is proving to be a lot of work, but I’m cool with it :)
The possibilities are endless lol
Are these the files I posted on thingiverse? If so, that's awesome. If not, I guess it's still awesome ;). I love looking at the progression. Keep up the good work!
 

Chooka

New Member
Are these the files I posted on thingiverse? If so, that's awesome. If not, I guess it's still awesome ;). I love looking at the progression. Keep up the good work!
Omg. Why yes they are. THANK YOU!
I’m using a combination of yours and Jace1969’s file. He had the lens already split from the helm lol. Though his is one big file...which makes it more splitting.

Got any updates I should be aware of? Lol. Or ‘print this first for X reason’ sorta things?
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Right biceps done. Colour number 4. Bubblegum pink lol. Intrigued cat for scale (terrible perspective scale).
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Don’t mind the mess
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Just a tip for any future 3D builds you may do in the future, paint really likes to chip off at points where there's friction and armour collisions so filament colour choice will help preserve sanity later on.

At a few points on my Daisy armour I've developed scratches which have removed the colour coat of paint revealing the transparent resin and the PLA below. Luckily I used a medium gray filament (preference for ease of sanding, low pigment density to prevent nozzle gumming and it just photographs well) which shows through as metallic scratches thanks to the epoxy resin. If you use brightly coloured filaments, for example, the "Fire Engine Red" which my M45 is built from you end up doing a lot more paint touch ups overall to hide the chips and scratches that show the techno-colour party below.

God Tier pre-planning would be to use a filament colour that matches your final surface finish you're looking for but who has time for that :p
 
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