Plaster would be terrible, not even close to as durable as Fiberglass, plaster cloth is for life-casting and such, this is armor and weapons. Like he said, aqua-resin is non-toxic(as long as you don't drink it) and would be perfect for those in apartments and who don't have a yard or anything.
I've been using EpoxAmite a bit, it seems to work well, but it is more expensive then fiberglass resin. It has no smell to it and it can be used in a ventilated room. I will be using this extensively come winter, but right now, I am using up the fiberglass resin I do have.
I've been using EpoxAmite a bit, it seems to work well, but it is more expensive then fiberglass resin. It has no smell to it and it can be used in a ventilated room. I will be using this extensively come winter, but right now, I am using up the fiberglass resin I do have.
However I can work on and sand Aqua Resin within 15min and I use less product because it's very strong. It also cures in a 1/4 of the time Epoximite does. I have been adding Poly Fiber II to the mix and Thx-6 to make it into a bondo as well. It's very easy to sand and smooth.
I used this as well. It's pretty good.
However I can work on and sand Aqua Resin within 15min and I use less product because it's very strong. It also cures in a 1/4 of the time Epoximite does. I have been adding Poly Fiber II to the mix and Thx-6 to make it into a bondo as well. It's very easy to sand and smooth.
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RYNO_666, what if any steps do you take before putting on the first coats of aqua resin to a fresh cardstock piece? I have found some older posts recommending coating the cardstock with acrylic sealer before applying the first coat of aqua resin. Have you found this to be required to prevent warping? I have tried some experiments using more powder than recommended and it turned out decent on a scrap of unfolded cardstock. Unfortunately the trial kit does not have any THX-6 thickener to experiment with. This build will be my first try at a full suit and also with aqua resin so any hints tips would be appreciated.
I do understand this could be considered a necro posting. However, the question is relevant with the topic so I'm risking it.
Yes you can use acrylic spray to waterproof your cardstock.
It takes some getting used to because it's unlike anything else.
Tips.
1. Waterproof cardstock before applying. You can do this with acrylic spray, clear coat paint or anything other waterproofing sprays. Stay away from waxes or oils. A method is to spray VERY LIGHT mist about a foot away. This can warp cardstock as well so be quick and careful. Another way is to use the Aqua resin itself. For this use very light almost dry brushing amount as if you are wiping off what you just put on.
2. Divide the helmet into 4 quarters of work zone. When mixing the first batches make them small. Use very light coats applied to all seams and glue points. Work the zones and by the time your last zone is done it should be hard enough to continue. I use plastic cups and popsicle sticks. Disposable plastic cups can be rinsed and reused.
3 Aqua resin doesn't have stupid cure times so you can keep working a piece. Just make sure it's hard before continuing.
4 Using supporting pieces is recommended on any Pepakura. I glue craft sticks or popsicle sticks to keep it sturdy while working.
5 Inside I use Aqua veil. It's More porous than automotive fiberglass cloth and allows greater penetration of Resin. Just cut a bunch of squares. Spray a little adhesive inside. Stick squares inside then more aqua resin on top.
About 2 tablespoons poly Fiber per 1/2 cup. If you are sculpting leave it coarse by just hand mixing with popsicle stick. Then you can go over all finished areas with a smooth batch by using a mixing bit.