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ODST Build - WIP

Discussion in 'Halo Pepakura Costumes' started by ZP180, Dec 4, 2017.

  1. ZP180

    ZP180

    ODST
    It's finally that time! After a bit of a hiatus, I'm finally back to building my ODST, or rather rebuilding since I scrapped all but two small pieces from the first build.

    After several of my pieces got destroyed when I moved into my first house last year, I decided to scrap most of what was done and restart. Was waiting until all of the pieces I'm certain I wanted to do pep, and then there was this to do:

    2017-11-11 20.29.02.jpg
    Yay! I have a workshop to work in.

    Now that things are back in progress, here's two ways to track my progress if you're interested. My Kanban board and progress photo. I update the board every time I do something while often forgetting to update my thread, so Trello is likely to be more up to date than here.

    Progress Board: Trello

    Progress:
    ProgressPhoto.png

    Here's a quick photo of everything lined up before I started hardening.
    2017-12-02 15.21.20.jpg 2017-12-02 15.21.10.jpg

    And for a few other projects in the works or completed:
    2017-04-23 19.36.55.jpg 2017-07-30 16.52.55.jpg 2017-12-03 18.41.23.jpg


    Links:
    Silhouette Cameo: http://a.co/hreDiuU
    Brushes: http://a.co/eQJQzpx
    Resin: http://a.co/2qH1JTG
    Fiberglass Cloth: http://a.co/ft6zq04
    Bondo: http://a.co/0FqeDkb
    Spreaders: http://a.co/dTyHMrS
    3D Printer: http://a.co/2PcdKD2
    Pants: http://a.co/fbWw73d (color scheme I bought is no longer listed)
    Shirt: http://a.co/10tEfUI (color scheme I bought is no longer listed)
    Boots: http://a.co/6F11ivC
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2018
  2. ZP180

    ZP180

    Found some images taken before to show more detail in what the pepped pieces look(ed) like.

    2016-09-21 18.56.16.jpg 2016-09-22 09.11.48.jpg 2017-12-02 15.21.36.jpg
    The shoulder pieces are past hardening and onto bondo. I'll be sure to take some pics of that this weekend.

    2017-12-02 15.21.25.jpg 2017-12-02 15.21.33.jpg 2017-12-02 15.21.27.jpg
    I made several attempts at the shin pieces setting them up in both Pepakura Designer and Armorsmith. Even going so far as to edit the original in Blender. The Blender adjustments fit the best, but did not leave me liking the shins, and since during this process, I am also working on losing some pretty significant weight (long term goal: 80lbs), I chose that I would rather scale for a middle ground and ensure that the pieces are more adjustable. The plan is that for a time there will be a gap between the front and back of the shins. As I have not decided on material for the thigh plates (the other area of concern), I will also keep in mind adjustable or remake time as part of this process.

    This weekend expect fiberglassing of the chest plate to be done and to get some images of the helmet (cast bought from Sean Bradley) up as that moves through finishing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  3. ZP180

    ZP180

    Anyone out there? I'm hearing crickets...

    More progress this weekend. Took two weekends to get the chest pieces hardened. So glad to be able to put a couple of heaters in the garage and get the temperature up.

    Shoutout to PerniciousDuke for the tip in his Reach build thread to pour some resin into the piece between laying down fiberglass and soaking it. Helped tons in lessening my frustration with pieces coming up with my brush (even with spray adhesive). Some pieces could have used more of that on the sides, but oh well, you live and learn.

    2017-12-09 17.49.18.jpg
    2017-12-09 17.49.22.jpg
    2017-12-09 17.49.32.jpg
    2017-12-09 17.49.40.jpg

    After finishing with fiberglass (forgot to take pictures between these steps) I like to add a layer of rondo, not too thick, but to help overlay some of the sharp edges from not laying my fiberglass completely flat.

    2017-12-10 15.45.06.jpg
    2017-12-10 15.45.12.jpg
    2017-12-10 15.45.10.jpg

    Over the course of this week, I'll trim any fibers still sticking out that I wasn't able to get with scissors and use my dremel to knock down any sharp edges on the inside.

    2017-12-11 06.12.01.jpg

    On another note, I printed the handle for the MA37 (found here). Whether or not I use it with the costume is yet to be seen, but I always liked the look of that gun. The image above is scaled down by 10% from the original, but it still feels too big in my hand. Due to some imperfections I'll be playing with my printer settings and reprinting it. What do you guys think about size? Should I scale down to maybe 85% size? 80%?
     
  4. gerard2567

    gerard2567 Member

    I swear I saw this exact thread a year ago, pictures and all... I have a serious Deja Vu problem.
     
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  5. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    I didn't see you started your build again! Congrats on the new place! It looks like it is suiting you well. Your fiberglass laying looks really good. Keep it up.

    Sub'd

    My only advice, being just a step ahead of you in the suit, try to reinforce large flat paper areas with thicker cardboard (like soda boxes) or tongue depressors. The reason is that they will sag, even if you can't see it. Once you start bondoing you'll realize it's taking way too much Bondo just to fill in the middle area of those large "flat" spot.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  6. ZP180

    ZP180

    As this is a restart, I do have an abandoned thread floating around somewhere, and it's likely my pictures between the two look similar.

    I've been using craft sticks for some of the areas I need to lay flat, I think cardboard could be useful for areas that have a slight curve where the craft sticks wouldn't work well.
    2017-12-11 19.54.11.jpg
     
  7. ZP180

    ZP180

    Project is currently on hold. I was planning on fiberglassing the rest of my pieces this past week while I had off work, but due to temps only reaching the low teens (F) during the day and negative at night, I've haven't been able to work out in the garage. Even with the space being insulated, there's enough gaps with the window and the garage door that my heaters can't get the temps up.

    This also put another house project on hold (sigh), so instead I took the week to relax instead. When temps start reaching the 30's again I'll be able to work at it again. Looking like maybe next weekend.
     
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  8. Hein B107

    Hein B107

    curious as to what progress has been made. i attempt to follow the same route while building so this might be some good reference material
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  9. ZP180

    ZP180

    Not at lot has been done from the standpoint of the actual costume. As per my previous post, freezing temperatures limited my ability to move forward with hardening the remaining pepped pieces.

    We do have some decent temps this week, so yesterday I was able to get one coat of resin on the outside of the shins, knees, and hip plates after work. Tonight I plan to coat the insides of the pieces with resin and perhaps lay down my fiberglass pieces depending on cure time. Temps drop again this weekend, but likely not too bad.

    That said, while I haven't been working on the armour recently, I have continued printing out the pieces for the MA37. Everything for the back half of the gun itself is now printed and I'll start sanding, filling, and gluing those pieces together while I start printing the front half of it.

    2018-01-11 19.18.10.jpg
    Some of these pieces came out a bit rough, but I'm hoping that at a min they will be good practice for sanding and filling some imperfections even before piecing the parts together.

    If you want to check out exactly where I am in the process of each piece, you can check out the trello link in my first post. I do tend to update that immediately as a step progresses, while I plan to update this thread in chunks of work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
  10. ZP180

    ZP180

    Been awhile since I've had much of note to post. Progress has been slow but steady over the past couple of weeks. I started working on the thigh plates, but had a fair bit of work before even starting to pep.

    I needed to scale up fairly significantly in order to make the pieces fit around my legs, but scaling up that far would make them way too tall and require cutting off too much material in order to fit me in all dimensions. The solution? I pulled the piece into Armorsmith to get the scaled dimensions. From there I got my ratios and pulled the model into Blender to adjust it how I needed. Finally I was able to open the model in Pepakura Designer and unfold it.
    Scale_Thighs.PNG Thigh_Plate.PNG

    So far one thigh plate has been assembled, and I plan on using 4-6mm foam to make the inner thigh straps. After doing this for the thighs, I'm debating re-doing the shins this way as well. That way they'll stay as a more uniform piece.

    2018-02-13 05.45.07.jpg 2018-02-13 05.45.41.jpg

    In another step, I finally finished printing off all of the pieces for my MA37 and have started sanding imperfections. I don't plan to get every piece picture perfect before assembling, but I want to get some amount of smoothing done before I glue it and make some parts less accessible.

    2018-02-05 05.53.46.jpg 2018-02-05 05.53.55.jpg 2018-02-05 05.54.05.jpg 2018-02-05 05.54.35.jpg

    Finally, here's my updated progress board (link in first post) of where everything stands. Nothing is moving further than "Harden" as this point as I want to get all pep pieces to "Shape" before continuing forward. You'll notice a fair bit of red labels (blocked). The ones in "TODO" are blocked on everything else being finished. Those pieces are my nice-to-haves and as such, I don't want to look at the board and keep thinking I need to get started on them right away. Shin pieces are also blocked until I decide whether or not to adjust the scale as described above and re-pep. They'll work sliced as they are, but it would be preferable to not have a gap between the front and back of the shins.

    ODST_Trello_2_13.png
     
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  11. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    Great work ZP180 !

    You'll be happy about rescaling the thighs. I didn't know ArmorSmith did that when I did mine, so I had to print them big to fit my big thighs in and now they are so tall that they press into my groin/hip areas as I move my legs forward. No fun. :unsure:
     
    Dirtdives likes this.
  12. ZP180

    ZP180

    Planning a bigger, pic-heavy post by the end of next week, but for now a minor update on plans.

    I've set myself two deadlines, a soft one for the end of May and a hard deadline for mid-August. I'm ok if I miss the first one, but setting that will get me in a good position to be done by the other one.

    Current Status:
    • Only one piece is left in construction
    • All pieces in harden have at least a coat of resin on them
    • Chest core and belt buckle in foam will be done once all pep pieces are hardened
    • Optional parts (boot covers, inner shoulder, gloves, pouches) will remain blocked until every other part is at least to painting

    Build_Board_02_20_18.PNG

    The plan is to finish fiberglassing every piece in the 'Harden' column by the end of the weekend as well as to finish constructing the back plate (butt plate really) while hopefully getting that glassed as well so that I can start with smoothing everything within the next couple of weeks.

    Decision on shins was to keep moving with my existing ones for the soft deadline but still work on rebuilding using the updated scaling.
     
    Hein B107 and PerniciousDuke like this.
  13. ZP180

    ZP180

    I promised an update this week, so here it goes. Success! I said I would get every piece in the harden column glassed by the end of the weekend, and I did.

    2018-02-24 16.05.31.jpg 2018-02-24 16.05.38.jpg


    2018-02-24 16.05.43.jpg 2018-02-24 16.05.50.jpg 2018-02-24 16.06.05.jpg

    Got two coats of resin on the inside and outside of each part over the course of the week. Saturday morning, I laid the fiberglass and poured in some resin to "nail" it down for when I coated the rest of it. Got some pools in areas doing this because I was rushing a little bit and did not worry about it.

    2018-02-25 19.03.45.jpg 2018-02-25 19.03.48.jpg 2018-02-25 19.03.58.jpg 2018-02-25 19.04.05.jpg

    After all parts were done being fiberglassed, and the resin cured, I cut down any fiberglass sticking up or overhangining and knocked it down with the Dremel and a pair of diagonal cutters. Finally, I was able to rondo the insides and place the parts with all the others.


    2018-02-27 05.40.30.jpg
    My stretch goal for last week did not get completed as I ended up restarting the process of building the back plate. I decided to go back to the old way and instead of cutting with my Cameo to hand score and cut the pieces as I need them. That should be done this week and get hardened soon.

    Trello.PNG

    Finally, here's the updated board with my progress. It's interesting to look at my posts since adding these to see how I choose to change the board structure or move things forward or back as priorities shift.

    That said, I want to know from you guys if putting the board images in is helpful to track where things are in the process. Let me know.

    Here's to the next update showing all pep pieces fiberglassed!
     
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  14. Bobby Boucher

    Bobby Boucher

    Nice progress! Setting a deadline is great tactic, I should've done the same thing.

    What paint job are you going to run with?
     
  15. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    Oh man, I can't tell you how exciting this is to watch knowing that I don't have to fiber glass anything for awhile. :lol:

    So much! So much progress in a short time. It's a really good step to get past too. Did you do anything to celebrate the milestone? You should.

    Did you nail down the glass and then coat in resin... or nail down and then coat in just rondo? Worried that the rondo won't soak into the glass which is what really gives the strength. You'll be able to tell once they've cured fully.

    As for the progress board I'm a fan of the colored game photo because it's quick to take in. The other thing I'll be honest I don't really understand, but if it helps you that is the only importance. And it seems to be helping you. (y)
     
  16. ZP180

    ZP180

    I needed the deadline, or else I'd never finish. As for paint job, I'm going to do a gunmetal primary and leaning towards a dark red for accent, but I haven't fully decided that yet. Really trying to delay that decision until I'm almost done with the bondo stage.

    No, I didn't do anything to celebrate. Just kept moving on. I'm especially glad to get through that step as now I don't have to worry so much about pieces getting destroyed or warped in storage.

    I nail down the glass and then coat with resin. After the resin I knock down some edges before coating with rondo. I've done a piece in the past for a speed build with rondo soaked into the glass, and it got enough strength for the purposes of that build, but I definitely prefer using resin to soak the fiberglass and use rondo more to provide an extra layer on top.

    Ok thanks for the feedback. We use kanban at work, and I find building to fit into the process well. It basically helps me visualize my workflow. I use labels to denote priority, materials, and blockers and each column is a step in the build process.

    I took the weekend mostly off to work on another project around the house. Starting a basement renovation and used the weekend to rip out all the old tile down there. Starting on bondo this week after work by finishing off the imperfections of the helmet and then the shoulders.
     
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  17. ZP180

    ZP180

    Question for those who have built an ODST before. Has anyone built the HD ODST Back Plate that's modeled and unfolded by Nightshade? Looks like this:

    back_plate.gif

    I ask because I like the look of this over the full chest and back with the Hugh Holder set. Having it be open appeals to me more especially when thinking about wearing it in the summer, but I don't want to miss out on having the back armor. But I've also not seen a build use this, and am unsure about doing so.
     
  18. Hein B107

    Hein B107

    Coincidences. I made one. Just left out the stuff in the middle of the lower back. I plan on using foam (eek) for that.

    One hint. The two parts in the middle need extra bracing the are just flat planes (with details in the middle) with folded sides. Ill edit this reply once i get home. Can make more pics then

    20180131_202103.jpg

    EDIT:
    Better late than never (sorry :oops:) i made some pics. I made the back into 4 parts. I tge reinforced all the sides. Also the collar has another layer of paper on it. After trying it on there will be some tearimg in the paper

    20180321_225939.jpg

    20180321_225955.jpg

    20180321_230009.jpg

    20180321_230051.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2018
    ZP180 likes this.
  19. ZP180

    ZP180

    Update time!

    Latest status
    ProgressPhoto.png

    Things are progressing. I'm not going to make my soft deadline. Trying to do so would require me to rush, and I don't want to lose quality for hitting that deadline. So my official deadline is mid-August.

    I've been making slow progress, but this weekend I got my helmet painted and mostly damaged.
    2018-03-26 17.55.54.jpg 2018-03-28 19.22.16.jpg 2018-03-29 19.43.14.jpg
    I gave it a base coat of silver, followed by a metallic gray.

    2018-04-03 05.41.49.jpg 2018-04-03 05.42.20.jpg 2018-04-03 05.42.02.jpg
    After that, I went to town with some 80 and 220 grit sandpaper as well as a file and sanding twig to get some smaller sections as well as kicked it around the garage some to scratch up the surface before installing the visor. When a good portion of pieces have gone through paint, I'll add some black and brown in the crevices.

    2018-04-03 06.51.27.jpg
    Shoulders and butt plate got bondo and a coat of primer to see remaining flaws (no pics of shoulders yet). There's still a few places that could use more sanding or some spot putty. I'll take care of that this week.

    2018-03-19 14.13.08.jpg
    I've also constructed the belt buckle which after filling a couple of dimples and seams will be ready for plastidip.

    2018-04-03 06.11.15.jpg vs. 2016-09-22 09.11.48.jpg
    Last, I had some time one night when I couldn't work in the garage and decided to see how a more detailed shoulder would look. This model is set up for foam, but I set it up for pep and tried it out. I like the detail, but as they're three separate parts, I'm playing with ideas for how I would best connect them all. These don't have to be done with the main costume, but they'll likely be the first pieces I replace. Whether I use the split model or recreate the same is yet to be determined.

    I'll get started on the back plate soon as I'm working through getting it shorter but the neck big enough to fit my head with minimum trimming. It's not a piece I'm wanting to split in order to fit my head if I can avoid it and still meet my deadline.
     
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  20. ZP180

    ZP180

    I'm not doing a good job of updating this thing. Things are still progressing, though.

    Looking at my board, I've got the back plate in construction. I've started this one a couple of time resizing it more. My first iteration I thought I'd size it on height and cut away material to get it over my head. Didn't care for how much I determined I'd need to cut away. Second time, I left it sitting out on my desk and this monster got ahold of it.

    2018-03-20 17.02.09.jpg

    So we're on to the third attempt one. I just figure each time I redo it, it gets slightly better.

    I started assembling the MA37, and the back half is assembled. Realized I have some sanding to do one some pieces of the front half (where I already applied spot putty) before I assemble as I won't be able to get my files in those spots once they're glued.
    2018-04-13 05.32.38.jpg

    Finally, I modeled and printed a possible buckle for where the straps meet the chest plate. I printed one, and I plan on adjusting the model depth before printing again also with a mirrored version to get both and casting for future use.

    2018-04-10 07.02.33.jpg

    Covered in spot putty before sanding.

    2018-04-10 07.02.12.jpg

    Things that will be moving into progress this week include: Bondo on the top chest plate followed by the stomach and sides. Belt buckle has moved to being ready for painting along with butt plate and shoulders.

    Likely won't be a ton of work this weekend as my basement project is progressing, but I'll do my best to at least get started on that chest plate and the buckles.
     
  21. ZP180

    ZP180

    I don't have any big updates to report at this moment. House projects have taken a lot of time away, but those are nearing completion.

    Chest plate, side hip plates, and stomach plate are all in the bondo phase and slowly making progress. Eventually I'll have to decide to stop trying for perfection as I need to get this done. Nothing says I can't make adjustments afterwards, as long as I have a full suit by my deadline.

    I stopped on the backplate so that I can focus my energy on moving everything else to the painting stage.

    Printed both a left and right buckle and smoothed them to prep for casting. I'm mostly doing the casting so that I can get the experience. Waiting for my silicone to be delivered, but those are in no rush.

    In short, no pictures, and there likely won't be many updates until everything has been bondo'd.
     
  22. Hein B107

    Hein B107

    I'll keep a close eye on this thread then. Need those buckles too. From the pictures here and the description its going to be awesome fellow trooper (y)
     
  23. ZP180

    ZP180

    Cast the buckles to get an idea of how to do this. I pretty much followed a video by Punished Props (found here)

    Steps:
    - Model parts in Fusion360: These were simple parts, so a great intro to modeling with Fusion
    - Clean up prints using spot putty and sandpaper up to 800 grit, sanding twigs and files
    - Create a box to contain the parts and mold. Let cure 24 hours before removing master.
    - Mold the parts.

    Supplies:
    - Fusion 360
    - Mold Max 30
    - Mold Release
    - Casting Resin

    Here's the result right after pulling the pieces from the mold. These will need some cleanup before being able to prime and paint, but overall not awful for a first try.

    buckles.jpg
     
  24. Badkitty

    Badkitty New Member

    This build looks great!! I'm glad you didn't give up. I hope all goes well!!:)
     
  25. CollinMcCaf

    CollinMcCaf

    Word of advice on your castings, if you had prime and sand (300+ grit) before making your mold you'll have a lot less sanding to do later on.
    Simply sanding with filler alone, even if you're going to 800 grit, will almost always leave low spots. I ensure my parts are glossy smooth before making my molds.
    Mostly, I just hate sanding resin... Hope it helps!
     

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