Phauxelate - Halo: Infinite Armor 3D Print

What filament should I use for my armor?


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Oh, and I forgot to mention: I'll be shooting for T3 as I feel like I might be able to do it. If any of you spot something I'm doing wrong that won't get me to T3, shout it out! If you have any tips for something that I could do better, share it!

I'm all about progress here, and a little constructive criticism goes a long way. Especially when it comes to constructing something like this.
 
Well then this ought to go a looooong way:

Your suit is inaccurate in composition because you're not using a titanium alloy, you're waaaay behind schedule (but also under budget, that's a good thing), the crystalline gel layer in your undersuit isn't constructed, the crystalline properties of that gel aren't finished yet, indeed THE ENTIRE UNDERSUIT is not completed yet, the life support in your suit hasn't been implemented, air rebreather, waste management, and power systems need to be wired, AI interface needs to be invented and installed, and the human factor inside needs to be physically and mentally trained, and certified in high stress management so they don't flinch when injured and rip their limbs off, and they need the AI interface implanted in their brains.

The shield system is going to need to be invented, modified, reinvented, and installed, the structural integrity of the suit in entirety is going to need to be tested, stress tested, and painted, the helmet, Helmet Mounted Display, communications modules, AI interface, AI itself, lights, infrared and ultraviolet imaging sensors and 5x magnification system all need to be invented, improved and installed, and the gloves need to be threat level IIIA while also allowing dexterity to manipulate firearms and vehicle controls.

Other than that, it looks great!
 
Well then this ought to go a looooong way:

Your suit is inaccurate in composition because you're not using a titanium alloy, you're waaaay behind schedule (but also under budget, that's a good thing), the crystalline gel layer in your undersuit isn't constructed, the crystalline properties of that gel aren't finished yet, indeed THE ENTIRE UNDERSUIT is not completed yet, the life support in your suit hasn't been implemented, air rebreather, waste management, and power systems need to be wired, AI interface needs to be invented and installed, and the human factor inside needs to be physically and mentally trained, and certified in high stress management so they don't flinch when injured and rip their limbs off, and they need the AI interface implanted in their brains.

The shield system is going to need to be invented, modified, reinvented, and installed, the structural integrity of the suit in entirety is going to need to be tested, stress tested, and painted, the helmet, Helmet Mounted Display, communications modules, AI interface, AI itself, lights, infrared and ultraviolet imaging sensors and 5x magnification system all need to be invented, improved and installed, and the gloves need to be threat level IIIA while also allowing dexterity to manipulate firearms and vehicle controls.

Other than that, it looks great!

Don't forget that I still haven't been assigned an AI, and I still don't have fireteam members based on personality and role. There's also Magnetic Weapon Holder Strips to hold my weapons, hydrostatic gel for temperature regulation, the visor for the helmet, and god forbid we forget the fusion reactor and Power Supply Control Unit to power the freaking thing.

Oh, and the pressure seal needs to be designed and tested to make sure I don't die from way too high or low external pressure.
 
Man Sean Anwalt had me for a bit on that post but maybe because it's 11 pm on labor day week nf . You got it man! I believe you can hit t3 if you have the patience.
 
2.5 hours of cutting cardstock later...

IMG_20190902_095222.jpg


Bracers are ready to start being cut out of foam
 
Oh, and I forgot to mention: I'll be shooting for T3 as I feel like I might be able to do it. If any of you spot something I'm doing wrong that won't get me to T3, shout it out! If you have any tips for something that I could do better, share it!

I'm all about progress here, and a little constructive criticism goes a long way. Especially when it comes to constructing something like this.
Permission to be vicious?
 
Mmmmm. I'm not happy with the quality of my foam cutting. I'm using a knew knife, and am having to build up muscle memory for using it. So, for the time being I will be creating practice pieces that likely won't be put together into a whole part until I get personally happy with the quality im creating.

This lack of quality is specifically a new way I'm creating my bevels, as what I was doing before just tore up the foam. Until progress flows smoothly, I have a few questions:

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I'm thinking about building full practice pieces out of harbor freight foam, and then build the actual piece of a quality foam like TnT cosplay once I'm comfortable building it. That way I'm not blowing through high quality foam that I'm just going to scrap. You guys this this is a good idea?

Also, the textured bottom of the EVA foam matts are a pain in my rump. When I cut a piece, I usually have to do another slice to cut the textured side, and even then it's not all the way cut. It ruins the clean, professional look of any cutting I do. Any of you know some tips or tricks that could make cutting them easier?

Do any of you use hot glue at all, or do all of you only use contact cement?
-----

Thanks!
 
If you want to practice cutting stuff, make a bunch of hand plates. They're small, you can build a whole part relatively quickly, and by the end you can use it. Plus, these hand plates are particularly tricky for some reason, I've made like 5 of them and still have to redo it. Also, depending on who you ask, they're not necessarily symmetric either. The model itself is asymmetrical... but someone could argue that's because of polygon limitations, and they're supposed to be symmetrical. So it's whether you want to follow the letter of the model, or the spirit of the model.
 
If your bevels were getting torn up, either your knife is dull or you are using a sawing motion.
Try to do your bevel cut in one smooth motion. If it takes more that one pass to complete the bevel and there are some rough spots, smooth it out with some sandpaper/dremel.
Historically I have not had a good relationship with hot glue so, I've been using contact cement or CA glue on smaller bits for my builds.
 
Practice makes Per(manent)fect. I kind of wish I did my cuts on less quality foam cuz I could have made some of it look better in the end. But it all depends on how much time you are willing to commit to the project and money.

I second or third contact cement. it is a game changer.
 
I'm thinking about building full practice pieces out of harbor freight foam, and then build the actual piece of a quality foam like TnT cosplay once I'm comfortable building it. That way I'm not blowing through high quality foam that I'm just going to scrap. You guys this this is a good idea?
This is how I built the Bucket to Boots Army Trooper suit that I wore this summer. One practice suit to make sure everything assembled and fit together properly, one set in high density foam done slowly and carefully with a refined approach and any adjustments learned in the practice build.

Also, the textured bottom of the EVA foam matts are a pain in my rump. When I cut a piece, I usually have to do another slice to cut the textured side, and even then it's not all the way cut. It ruins the clean, professional look of any cutting I do. Any of you know some tips or tricks that could make cutting them easier?
Lower blade angle so that the cutting edge on the surface is not being influenced by the texture immediately below it. If you're having to press into the foam with pressure on the cheapo floor mats, your blade needs sharpening.

Do any of you use hot glue at all, or do all of you only use contact cement?
I use a CA glue for assembly and then a high temperature hot glue backer. Others use contact adhesives for durability but I'd rather have the quick assembly time over the slight gain in bond strength.
 
If your bevels were getting torn up, either your knife is dull or you are using a sawing motion.
Try to do your bevel cut in one smooth motion. If it takes more that one pass to complete the bevel and there are some rough spots, smooth it out with some sandpaper/dremel.

The bevels I'm doing now are coming out smooth. I have to practice on the angle and keeping the knife straight. Before what the problem was, is that the foam just wasn't dense enough, and would sort of "bend" with the knife, not allowing to cut it. This was even with a fresh new exacto blade.

One practice suit to make sure everything assembled and fit together properly, one set in high density foam done slowly and carefully with a refined approach and any adjustments learned in the practice build.

A whole suit??
... Well, I guess that would be very beneficial. My plan was to re-build the pieces until I get comfortable with how they're supposed to be put together, then build the
actual piece I'm going to wear. Rebuilding it could happen even 2 or 3 times, so by the end I likely would have a few suits I suppose...

If you're having to press into the foam with pressure on the cheapo floor mats, your blade needs sharpening.

I've noticed that I put too much pressure on the cutting mat, making it catch on that mat rather than the foam. I guess I just didn't have good knifes before, and have always been applying too much pressure. But now I have a quality craft knife, I've seen that the blade should slide easily through the foam. The pressure I'm experiencing should be somewhat close to a semi-sharp knife cutting through cold butter
 
Yeah, I've come to the resolution that I'm nearly all burned out on working with foam. Good news though! I'm not done with cosplay.

I'm going to go with my idea I had a few months ago about 3D printing a suit. I've ordered a bunch of parts and am going to be building a 3D Printer. Until I get my suit started on printing, I hope you guys are OK with me sharing photos of the printer being built. (Parts are still arriving in the mail, but it shouldn't be too long)

Until that happens, enjoy this autograph to me of Steve Downes that I got because I really don't have any new pictures


IMG_20190629_152257.jpg
 
As of now, the build medium has changed from foam to 3D printing plastic
I have begun the assembly of a 3D printer! Since I'm too cheap to buy a kit, I've purchased all of the parts individually (except an upgrade kit) and am making a clone of the Prusa i3 Mk. 2.5S.

I have started assembly but alas, I forgot to order the heatbed plate. That's now arriving tomorrow, but for today expect a picture of a mostly incomplete 3D printing thingamajig.

I still haven't figured out exactly what filament I'll use, but it'll likely be either PLA or PETG. I do know that I'll be assembling the pieces together using CA glue w/ accelerant because it's fast and strong. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
I still haven't figured out exactly what filament I'll use, but it'll likely be either PLA or PETG. I do know that I'll be assembling the pieces together using CA glue w/ accelerant because it's fast and strong. I'll keep you guys posted.
There's pros and cons to each so it's going to be some internal theoryhammering for you to decide on which is best.

PLA
Pro: Easy to print, cheap (usually), less specialized equipment required
Con: Sanding for days, less resilient, more temperature sensitive
PETG
Pro: Stronger, easier to post-process, durability
Con: Printer wear and tear (hotter temperatures = faster part breakdown), hygroscopic (print fast or have a filament dryer), more expensive filament.
 
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