Prevent seams from ripping?

[xXDashIVXx]

So I am trying to finish up my armor, but I noticed that when my peices flex, the seams are a little bit torn and the putty has split. Is there a clearcoat or something that I can use to cover my armor a d add more strength a d durability, while at the same time covering any seams so the dont look torn?

 

[Sean Anwalt]

ExCeLLuR8 has long been advocating the use of shoe goo inside the seam, and evil Ted uses strips of fabric contact cemented over the seam to add strength and durability. I would recommend either of those two methods.

I'm having similar problems with my research forearms

And that has made me terribly sad. I should have used one of those methods.

 

[SI3RRA 117]

The way I see it, there really isnt a true fix for this. Seems like it’s just the nature of using foam. There is just too much movement in the material. Especially if you plan on really abusing the armor such as using for filming or skits. I’m sure you can minimize the effects with really tight seams that have little to no stress and no filler. And those methods that Sean Anwalt mentioned im sure will help with the seams not tearing apart. But in the end unless you plan on making your armor a static display. I see the wear and tear on the foam inevitable and whatever filler you use for seams starting to separate.

 

[master_colt_117]

I think I have found the best fix for this. My armor pieces are crazy strong and very durable. I tried breaking and tearing my "scrap" armor pieces and I have not been able to. They don't crush or fold in and as Sean Anwalt mentioned. Shoe Goo. It's amazing and indestructible. Even trying to dremel it is difficult once cured and good luck cutting it with a knife. When it cures it bonds into the foam and also contracts which tightens seams up even more. It prevents seams from busting or folding in from impact. I have used it for years in other hobbies that required indestructible strength. It works well for bonding shoe soles to shoes (what it's intended for). I literally coat the entire inside of my armor pieces and go heavier on seams. It also works very well to help keep heat molded foam pieces to make it retain it's curved shape. Once it's shoe goo it will forever hold its curved shape and not flatten out over time. The fumes are very strong, definitely use a respirator and in a ventilated area. The shoe goo takes about 3 hours to firm and is usually cured in about 24-48hours. You do have to work in steps with it because it tends to settle to the lowest area you have to coat and rotate the armor piece in sections at a time as it settles and cures in order to get to stay where you want it. Trust me, I literally have no fear of damaging my armor, I actually don't know how I would trust foam armor without it, knowing how well it works. It turns the foam into a hard plastic but it remains flexible enough to give when needed. Also once the inside of a piece is coated, not it will have a rubber type grippy feel which makes it awesome for holding that armor piece in place on your body. It grips to you! It is a process as far as applying the shoe goo, I'd be happy to jump on a call with anyone wanting further advice or instruction on my techniques of getting the best application of the goo. It's not difficult.

 

[master_colt_117]

Here us what the inside of my torso looks like. I will eventually dress it up with padding wrapped in a cool fabric to look good. The shoe goo makes the piece feel like a durable piece of rigid plastic yet still has flexibility. It makes the seams incredible strong and keeps them from busting on the exterior. That very first junk helmet I built, I used as a test painter. I have jumped on it, pulled on it punched it as hard as I can, it just bounces right back to original shape. Hahaha

 

[xXDashIVXx]

It isnt the glue that's the problem. My foam is staying together just fine, but the putty and other things I am using to give it a more finished look are cracking and giving way to the flex of the foam...

 

[master_colt_117]

It isnt the glue that's the problem. My foam is staying together just fine, but the putty and other things I am using to give it a more finished look are cracking and giving way to the flex of the foam...

Yup understood. My point is the shoe goo helps eliminate that flex and gives the seams extra strength to keep the foam from flexing to extreme causing your exterior surface to suffer from it. It makes the whole piece way more rigid basically as well as making it strong in general.

 

[xXDashIVXx]

Yup understood. My point is the shoe goo helps eliminate that flex and gives the seams extra strength to keep the foam from flexing to extreme causing your exterior surface to suffer from it. It makes the whole piece way more rigid basically as well as making it strong in general.

Welp, I think the only solution here is to pull a you and rebuild the whole suit...

 

[master_colt_117]

Welp, I think the only solution here is to pull a you and rebuild the whole suit...

Haha that's right!

 

[Dirtdives2424]

What is the cure time on the shoe Goo? Meaning if I used it to connect seams.....how long till one would let go of the pieces in order to work/attach the next?

 

[master_colt_117]

What is the cure time on the shoe Goo? Meaning if I used it to connect seams.....how long till one would let go of the pieces in order to work/attach the next?

cure time is 24hrs depending on how heavy you go and it's rock solid with in 48hrs. It usually sets up in an hour but I wouldn't use it for straight foam assembly, would not get clean seams. I did set my rubber boot soles in with shoe good only and it worked very well. I waited 3 days before trying the boot on so the shoe goo had time to really cure thoroughly. For foam assembly, I have very great luck using loctite 5 sec super glue, it's actually very strong by itself. The foam would actually tear before the glue would fail. Before I super glue a seam i rough it with a sanding drum on both surfaces to help the glue bond better (bonds well not sanding too) give it a glue bead, join for 5 seconds and boom move on to the next piece. Gives me very clean seam lines and very strong.
But then I coat my entire inside of the armor piece with the shoe goo to make the piece permanently strong and make it hold its shape. Because the shoe goo is so strong and supportive on the inside, your outer exterior seam remains strong. No cracking or busted seams. I've punched, kicked, smashed, pulled as hard as I can on spare armor pieces and literally cannot break the piece or bust a seam.

 

[master_colt_117]

I got the whole back of my helmet built yesterday with just the 5 second loctite. Then I flipped it on its lid last night and did a layer of shoe goo in the dome of the helmet inside so that it could cure over night to permanently hold the curved dome shape before I remove the braces inside keeping the helmet from wanting to expand back out or "grow" which can throw the helmet out of measurement.

 

[xXDashIVXx]

I got the whole back of my helmet built yesterday with just the 5 second loctite. Then I flipped it on its lid last night and did a layer of shoe goo in the dome of the helmet inside so that it could cure over night to permanently hold the curved dome shape before I remove the braces inside keeping the helmet from wanting to expand back out or "grow" which can throw the helmet out of measurement.
View attachment 266416

Can we see the inside?

 

[master_colt_117]

Can we see the inside?

Yeah buddy. I only coated the very top part of the helmet for now as that's the only part I wanted to "lock in" the shape on. Don't want to get to carried away with it not done yet. When I coat the back and sides I'll probably do another thin coat on the top again. This stuff settles out and contracts as it cures so just spread it on and it always smooths out on its own. A coat you think you went "heavy" on generally tightens down about 40% of what you thought you put on.

 

[xXDashIVXx]

TurboCharizard I know you have used woodland scenics and other materials before. I also have seen that you poked around in here. What have you done, or have I been too bold and you only used it for filling in air pocket holes and little scrapes?

 

[JD of Asgard]

Yeah buddy. I only coated the very top part of the helmet for now as that's the only part I wanted to "lock in" the shape on. Don't want to get to carried away with it not done yet. When I coat the back and sides I'll probably do another thin coat on the top again. This stuff settles out and contracts as it cures so just spread it on and it always smooths out on its own. A coat you think you went "heavy" on generally tightens down about 40% of what you thought you put on.

View attachment 266426 View attachment 266427

my god, that helmet is beautiful

 

[TurboCharizard]

TurboCharizard I know you have used woodland scenics and other materials before. I also have seen that you poked around in here. What have you done, or have I been too bold and you only used it for filling in air pocket holes and little scrapes?

With gaps like that there's a few ways you can go about repairing things. The Woodland Scenics Foam Putty is good but like you said it's meant for smaller imperfections. I'd personally go one of two routes to fix the sharp angles and maintain flexibility of the piece.

1. Cut thin wedges that are undersized for the gap, insert, glue in and then surface blend with your choice of filler (foam putty) and sanding.
2. Spray a fine mist of water into the gap, press some Foam Clay into the space with a bit of excess floating out of the top and use either sculpting tools or a knife to trim the excess to shape and match the rest of the form.

The first one can be done using whatever is on hand, the second is a method I'm still fiddling around with and it's pretty rad.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

I would say don't scrape too hard to remove excess putty. The foam is flexible enough that too much might be pulled away.

 

[master_colt_117]

Another small round of shoe gooing to the back of the inside of the helmet. Letting it settle propped up on the towel to cure overnight to lock it in. Probably won't do any more now till whole helmet is complete, incase I have to make small adjustments with heat forming

 

[xXDashIVXx]

Another small round of shoe gooing to the back of the inside of the helmet. Letting it settle propped up on the towel to cure overnight to lock it in. Probably won't do any more now till whole helmet is complete, incase I have to make small adjustments with heat forming
View attachment 266481
View attachment 266478 View attachment 266479 View attachment 266480

Awesome. So if I had a peice that was done, should i do it in little small sections or just slushcast the whole peice at once