Questions about Plastidip on EVA foam

Reclaimara

Sr Member
Member DIN
S713
Hello there. I have some questions about Plastidip on EVA foam.

I've mainly seen everyone use black plastidip. However lately I've found gunmetal grey Plastidip. And here is my question - if you tried it, does it behave in the same way that black plastidip does? I was thinking of using it instead of black and it would fit perfectly for illusion of metal underneath the paint on armor.

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Also second question. I've stumbled across clear Plastidip as well which made me think. I want to use Montana Gold spray paint to coat the armor.
However how do you seal your paintjob and prevent it from cracking?
Anyone tried to seal it with this transparent plastidip by any chance? I've been thinking it might do good as sealer for the paintjob and additionally protect it from cracks as well?

1660858944508.png
 

TylerBH2014

Member
I haven't used the gunmetal plasti dip, but I have used black and white and both functioned the same way, so I would think the gunmetal would act the same too. As for that clear plasti dip. I would not use it. I used it on a prop and after grabbing it when it was fully dry, the coat peels off. There are other brands of clear coat though from rustoleum and other spray paint brands.
 

Reclaimara

Sr Member
Member DIN
S713
I haven't used the gunmetal plasti dip, but I have used black and white and both functioned the same way, so I would think the gunmetal would act the same too. As for that clear plasti dip. I would not use it. I used it on a prop and after grabbing it when it was fully dry, the coat peels off. There are other brands of clear coat though from rustoleum and other spray paint brands.

Interesting, I've used the clear on a couple props and didn't have an issue. I wonder why we had such different results? Definitely agree though, better to go for black.

Oh interesting. Then it must depend on brand of paint then if clear plastidip does adhere well to one and not to other. Weird.


Why would you go for black plastidip instead?
 

Electraknite

Active Member
the only reason plasti dip doesnt peel of foam is because it soaks into it. i doubt it would make a permanent sealer over any paint. its meant to peel off stuff. I use krylon satin to varnish my foam and haven't had any cracking. keep the coats light is all. creasing will happen of course in area that flex a lot but after a con or shoot i use my heat gun to heal the creasing. it works very well on light creasing and semi ok on deep creases. no paint flaking in either case.

Id stay away from all rustoleum products personally, i have about a 50/50 success rate and they take forever to dry. it doesn't play well with most of my other paint.
 

NewBrody

Member
Why would you go for black plastidip instead?
I find the black plastipid just makes a good base to start painting from. Covers over any like marker lines and such.

Id stay away from all rustoleum products personally, i have about a 50/50 success rate and they take forever to dry. it doesn't play well with most of my other paint.
Agreed, had no problem using rustoleum slate grey for the base of my suit, but when I painted a prop with it recently I had a hard time getting it to stick properly, even after a clear coat.
 

Spiderboy196

Well-Known Member
I find the black plastipid just makes a good base to start painting from. Covers over any like marker lines and such.


Agreed, had no problem using rustoleum slate grey for the base of my suit, but when I painted a prop with it recently I had a hard time getting it to stick properly, even after a clear coat.
I would like to say I use rustoleum quick dry spray cans for my armors and props and have no problems/ peeling at all on it.
 

Reclaimara

Sr Member
Member DIN
S713
the only reason plasti dip doesnt peel of foam is because it soaks into it. i doubt it would make a permanent sealer over any paint. its meant to peel off stuff. I use krylon satin to varnish my foam and haven't had any cracking. keep the coats light is all. creasing will happen of course in area that flex a lot but after a con or shoot i use my heat gun to heal the creasing. it works very well on light creasing and semi ok on deep creases. no paint flaking in either case.

Id stay away from all rustoleum products personally, i have about a 50/50 success rate and they take forever to dry. it doesn't play well with most of my other paint.

Oh. That actually makes total sense. I didn't think about plastidip working because it soaks into the foam.
Tbh we don't actually have Rustoleum in Europe so I wasn't planning on importing it either. I have heard some mixed opinions about it.
I plan to use Montana Gold for paint on armor and I could buy and test their varnish too and see if I'll get cracks.
Thank yo,

I find the black plastipid just makes a good base to start painting from. Covers over any like marker lines and such.


Agreed, had no problem using rustoleum slate grey for the base of my suit, but when I painted a prop with it recently I had a hard time getting it to stick properly, even after a clear coat.

Normally I used black and for quite lot of things black seems best but I just wanted to use that gunmetal gray as a base and illusion of metal underneath the paint when I'll do some chips and scratches. So though instead of painting a layer of paint I could use that from the plastidip.

Potentially could perhaps do black coat of plastidip underneath and then gunmental gray on top?
 
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