Rescaled and Revamped!

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SSGLordBert

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I’ve begun the process of rescaling and improving my existing armor set. I shall call it meowlnir mk2. Lol.

I found a more beefy and robust version of few files of MK7 spartan armor, and with the use of armor smith I rescaled to fit my body a little better.

The first of the test for mk2 is the belt (space diaper). With my Kobra max up and running I was able to print the pieces in one go with no gluing. The new belt has its own snap in connections to fit and also is a solid print. Not a single layer print like my previous version.
BB9DC687-33E4-4FB3-B36A-6F63401AF0F6.jpeg

Cod piece has key tabs that slide in to butt plate piece.
8202DBDB-190F-4CAE-A833-833405C2A3DB.jpeg

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Scaled to about 92% of original print to fit around my waist with no strapping or support from a harness.

The piece in progress will be the thighs. I’ve rescaled them to sit a little higher above my knee, so that my knee plates don’t hit them. I also removed the inner thigh layer piece from the print. I will be replacing the inner with a eva foam replacement for added flex, movement and comfortability.
85AE2BA7-8521-4321-9371-B5CD371FEB98.jpeg


After the thighs are complete, I plan to make new shins that are easier to get on and off. Still mapping and planning this one.

Then I am changing my boots over to eva foam only. I feel like that would be more flexible and easy to walk in.

Updates will come as I progress and tweak. I learned a lot from c2e2 and what I wanted to improve.
 
:::update::: first try at Eva foam boots.

Well I started in on the boots change over today. Using the file in the armory for pepakura as reference, I’ve used some Eva foam floor tile and a little white Eva foam from michaels to get the back done. Took a little bit of work and guessing to do it. But here is what I’ve got.

700C3134-98B7-4F63-8AA1-CB5E09A95E27.jpeg

I’ve also used my dremel to sand down the edges to make them angled.

The front half is taking me a little bit to figure out. So I’ll take another shot at it and post more. Has anyone got any suggestions on what to do? I usually just 3D print everything, so foam is a new monster. Should I use a certain thickness of foam? Do I grind the edges to an angle first before gluing? Any and all help would be appreciated.

More updates to come as they manifest. Lol
 
::update 2:: (9/12/22)

Got the first shoe done and ready for paint. I know the second show will turn out better because I learned some things while working with the foam. I.e. I don’t necessarily need to use all parts on the unfold or use the exact configuration. But I am pretty happy with my first try.

Sealed the foam all around with two coats of mod podge before putting a layer of primer over the foam. Then put a layer of matte black over. Just need add the teal metallic and pink metallic.

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The next update is my thigh piece. Both are now printed. And I put the foam insert in them. Worked like a charm! And these thighs fit way better than the last version.

I also modified the way they will be held up on me. I sewed buckle clips into my motocross armor that snap into my belt and then the thigh strap snaps in to the belt. So literally my upper body will be holding stuff up.

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And I also added small iridium magnets to hold the front of the space diaper in place. Works like a dang charm. Now to finish up the other boot and paint.
 
Your suit looked fantastic in pictures from C2E2, definitely looking forward to the updates!
 
:::update::: 9/24/22

Got the boots v2 done. And the thighs are painted black now. The shoes are way more light weight and easier to walk in. Only thing is I did a more efficient job on the left shoe since I had done the right one first as a learning experience lol. But that’s ok. I’m satisfied with it.
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v2 of the shins came out real nice! Not exactly how I planned but still better than my last set and the scale came out perfect for my long bird legs. Buckle tabs are held in slot with small iridium magnets and 3/4” elastic strapping hold the front and back piece together while walking. Going to get a coat of fiberglass resin on them for strength and smoothing of lines, then ready for paint.

EFAD44E3-6F61-412C-B203-772FDFA672C1.jpeg

9A9A55AA-9DF0-4DFD-9E8B-3EEE85571E3F.jpeg
 
:::update::: 10/2/22

New belt is finished! Way better comfort. Way better hold. Way better strength. And significantly better looking.

Comparison pictures of old and new.
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And then if you didn’t see my other thread, I’ve actual done a little bit more with my gloves too. Went from standard mk7 gloves to the hopes grip version.

Here are the gloves

B9DDF47E-102D-4B82-9205-8BEB6B090532.jpeg
00425DFA-FC63-491B-B35C-DA3B76C78EA9.jpeg
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:::update::: 10/6/22

Big update. Been working double time on upgrades lately. Lol. Got my thighs 100% done and I’ve also made a new and improved chest unit… not in the original docket but made it work.

Thighs have been revamped and remade from the ground up. More light weight and better scaled fit. Also no longer require the pesky hard to hide belt to hold them up. Here’s the old v new:
285A18D6-8D74-40E4-B0AA-65FEA34BA515.jpeg

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Then my new chest… I print solid pieces on my Kobra max as opposed to small pieces and gluing them. Makes for a more solid and streamlined print. Also came out better fitting and more light weight as well

I’m the interior inserts of the arms are print separately this time AND in TPU! I coated the inserts with 5 layers of black plasti dip to give it more ideal rugged look. Kind of what it looks like in game. The TPU also helps with comfort if wearing.

I then went a small extra mile and actually added some LEDs to the chest armor. Not a whole lot but just enough. Small eye visor lights in pink and teal that use AAA batteries. But instead of conventional batteries, I bought some AAAs that charge via USB-C port in the side of the battery. Works freaking great.

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Oh and I finally got the shins all resined and smoothed and fist coat of black on. Should be done very soon.

76FB8B28-4322-4CAA-BE5E-E7140D194E92.jpeg
 
For your 3d prints, what programme do you use to make your models fit your print bed?
I'm just getting into 3d printing and I'm not sure how to go about breaking up a large model to print it in pieces and assembly later.
 
For your 3d prints, what programme do you use to make your models fit your print bed?
I'm just getting into 3d printing and I'm not sure how to go about breaking up a large model to print it in pieces and assembly later.
There are 2 programs I use. First to separate large items, Luban 3D. It’s a dos based software the separates it based on your printer. Downside it is subscribed service. But it’s only like $15. I pay for only when I need to use it. Which is only like once in a blue moon.

Another is armorsmith. It’s a one time payment program for like $30 and you put all your measurements in (like your waist and whatnot) and scale 3D files to yourself. Then from armorsmith you can export the rescale to your printer.

Then once the files are separated I get them in Cura and touch them up with scale. I also am use a fairly large printer. A Anycubic Kobra max. It’s like a 16”x16” print bed.
 
::update:: 10/9/22

Shins are complete! Even got the carbon fiber on the calf bubble. Not my best hydro dip but still came out awesome and definitely more to game accurate that the last pair. Only remaining thing is to add foam for fit inside.
9227FEC7-27E3-4909-A0CA-FD56F960EA5E.jpeg

4C57597B-ACB7-4987-87A5-5672E145C0E9.jpeg
 
I’ve begun the process of rescaling and improving my existing armor set. I shall call it meowlnir mk2. Lol.

I found a more beefy and robust version of few files of MK7 spartan armor, and with the use of armor smith I rescaled to fit my body a little better.

The first of the test for mk2 is the belt (space diaper). With my Kobra max up and running I was able to print the pieces in one go with no gluing. The new belt has its own snap in connections to fit and also is a solid print. Not a single layer print like my previous version. View attachment 322174
Cod piece has key tabs that slide in to butt plate piece.
View attachment 322175
View attachment 322176View attachment 322178View attachment 322177

Scaled to about 92% of original print to fit around my waist with no strapping or support from a harness.

The piece in progress will be the thighs. I’ve rescaled them to sit a little higher above my knee, so that my knee plates don’t hit them. I also removed the inner thigh layer piece from the print. I will be replacing the inner with a eva foam replacement for added flex, movement and comfortability. View attachment 322179

After the thighs are complete, I plan to make new shins that are easier to get on and off. Still mapping and planning this one.

Then I am changing my boots over to eva foam only. I feel like that would be more flexible and easy to walk in.

Updates will come as I progress and tweak. I learned a lot from c2e2 and what I wanted to improve.
Can't wait to see it in person
 
There are 2 programs I use. First to separate large items, Luban 3D. It’s a dos based software the separates it based on your printer. Downside it is subscribed service. But it’s only like $15. I pay for only when I need to use it. Which is only like once in a blue moon.

Another is armorsmith. It’s a one time payment program for like $30 and you put all your measurements in (like your waist and whatnot) and scale 3D files to yourself. Then from armorsmith you can export the rescale to your printer.

Then once the files are separated I get them in Cura and touch them up with scale. I also am use a fairly large printer. A Anycubic Kobra max. It’s like a 16”x16” print bed.
Awesome thanks for all the info!
and that carbon fibre looks slick
 
What is the carbon fiber? Is it a design or a vinyl applied afterwards?
its actually hydro dipped. since vinyl wraps need heated to form, i did hydro dip to keep my prints from melting via my heat gun. plus its way easier. Just a large tote with hot water, your desired film, and some patience. looks really clean. And if you have any mess ups (i did on the large areas) makes for a good weathering look with some stippled paint.
 
its actually hydro dipped. since vinyl wraps need heated to form, i did hydro dip to keep my prints from melting via my heat gun. plus its way easier. Just a large tote with hot water, your desired film, and some patience. looks really clean. And if you have any mess ups (i did on the large areas) makes for a good weathering look with some stippled paint.
That's something I will have to try when I go for my first build
 
::update:: 10/9/22

Shins are complete! Even got the carbon fiber on the calf bubble. Not my best hydro dip but still came out awesome and definitely more to game accurate that the last pair. Only remaining thing is to add foam for fit inside.
View attachment 324096
View attachment 324095
Holy crap, that carbon fiber is insane! I'll have to give hydro-dipping a try!
 
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