Resining & Fibre Glassing Tutorial/How To

Long Shot

Member
Resining Tutorial/How To

Since I know many of you have questons about how to resin and fibre glass your pepakura costumes I will explain to you the process that I use with my costume. Hopefully these tips and instructions will help you out on your road to completion. For the time being I will start you off with the Resin application part of this tutorial. (this is my first tut so let me know if i miss anything)

----------Resining with "Resin"----------

STEP 1:Get Materials Together

----------Materials----------

Resin
MVC-313F.jpg


Liquid hardener
MVC-319F.jpg


Brush(s), reallys it's personal preferance
MVC-312F.jpg


Container(top of resin can)
MVC-315F.jpg


Tinfoil(to put inside container so it can be reused)
MVC-314F.jpg


Mixing stick or the like
MVC-320F.jpg


Knife/Scissors
(Self Explanitory)

Stand(to hold work) i think it's wats left of Lopez
MVC-310F.jpg


Piece(the most important part)
MVC-311F.jpg
 

Long Shot

Member
Step 2: Preping the Materials and Begining

Before you jump into any thing you first want to make sure you're in a well ventilated area and you have a large enough work area for the piece you will be working on.

The first thing you need to do is clean the surface of the object that you will be resining. Make sure it is free of debris and foreign objects.

Next you want to place you piece one your stand, in this case it is the master chief helmet.
MVC-316F.jpg


Now you are almost ready to resin your piece.
STOP
Before you do make sure you read, and re-read if necessary, the instructions on the back of the can.

MIXING

The first thign you need to do when mixing the resin and hardener is to line your container with tinfoil.
MVC-317F.jpg


Next pour in the desired amount of resin.(Pour an amount that you think you will use in 5-10min as it will be unusable after that.)
MVC-318F.jpg


Next add the correct amount of Liquid Hardener. (READ DIRECTIONS!! Too much will cause the resin to harden within a couple minuets.)

Mix the two together for 10-15seconds and remove stiring stick.(wipe off excess resin on stick.)

>>>WARNING: Never mix a new batch with an old one, the onld will start to harden the new one instantly<<<

Now dip your brush into the resin and load it up with a moderate amount, not dripping off. If there is excess just wipe it on the edge of the container so that it flows back in.

Apply the resin to your piece starting at the seams first and the working your way around. You start at the seam to make sure it gets a healty amount of resin to give it support.
MVC-322F.jpg


Remember to work quickly as the clock is against you, if you're too slow your resin will end up like this->
MVC-323F.jpg

At this point ti is too bad too use, sorry, just throw it away.

After you have used the desired amount of resin on the piece let it dry. it should start to look something like this.
MVC-324F.jpg


I reccomend doing your pieces in sections so as to not "water log" your medium. This also ensures you'll have a dry spot to get a firm grasp on.
 

malcomtidus

Jr Member
Very interesting. Nice tut, or if it's tut in progress... regardless, tuts with pics are usually very nice. (I didn't read through it 100% heh, but I definitely will come the time I might need to.)
 

Long Shot

Member
great tut. are you gunna be continuing to like fiberglassing and such?
Yes i plan on adding a fiberglassing part to this tut, i will do it when i buy some.

Very interesting. Nice tut, or if it's tut in progress... regardless, tuts with pics are usually very nice. (I didn't read through it 100% heh, but I definitely will come the time I might need to.)
Thanks
 
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link4044

Sr Member
the tinfoil is a good idea but you dont really need it, once the resin is dried you can pop it out with a flathead screew driver
 

link4044

Sr Member
plus heres another thing: if the resin is dry and it still feel alittle tacky just put babypowder on it and it will dry it up and cover up the smell

and another trick is if you want to thicken the fiberglass resin add lots of babypowder to the mix, add it before you mix in the harder (it will take a few mins to mix it)
 

Chuck 126

Jr Member
Link, would applying baby powder to a dry yet tacky piece work for Bondo too? Mine is fine now but it was pretty sticky for a few days. I was worried that I'd never be able to stand putting my head inside it.
 

Sean Bradley

Sr Member
Great Tutorial, make sure that you post a link to it in the TUTORIAL LINKS thread stickied in the molded armor forum... I think it'sll be useful to all.
Keep up the good work!

-Sean
 

Doom

Well-Known Member
Great Job! Excellent presentation of pictures and easy-to-follow instructions.

Great Work!

-Doom
 

link4044

Sr Member
Chuck-126 said:
Link, would applying baby powder to a dry yet tacky piece work for Bondo too? Mine is fine now but it was pretty sticky for a few days. I was worried that I'd never be able to stand putting my head inside it.
i never had that promblem with the filler...it wouldnt hurt to try...if that doesnt work try to brush some resin over it
 
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Sean Bradley

Sr Member
That stickiness issue sounds like undermixing to me. If you don't completely mix the resin or bondo, it doesn't fully cure. The material that is mixed correctly will kick and set off the heat reaction that will trys to cure the rest.... but leaves it sticky and soft.

Make sure when your mixing your batches to scrape the sides of your mixing container and mix to 2-3 minutes. Go a little overboard with mixing, and make sure that you use enough hardener and you shouldn't have problems with this again.
 

link4044

Sr Member
yes make sure to use the red harden, there is some thats greyish/white that matches the filler and its hard to tell if its completely mixed
 

QuPloid

New Member
dont use too much hardener, though, because then it begins to set while your mixing and gets VERY hot and brittle.
 

MC Chris

Well-Known Member
So what do you do after you resin the whole outside of the helmet and is dry? do you do anything on the inside?
 
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