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Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

Discussion in 'Non-Halo Costumes and Props' started by Sandbagger, Aug 7, 2012.

  1. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    *******Updated EDIT: I have now finished my THIRD Iron Man suit, constructed in FULL STEEL.

    *******Updated EDIT: I'm now onto my THIRD Iron Man suit which has been the goal to eventually build in metal.

    The first half-finished wearable suit was pepakura and fibreglass/bondo.

    The second completely finished suit was all cardboard as a trial-fit for a metal build.
    I am now progressing very well with a FULL STEEL SUIT. Go to the last page for current updates.*****

    First suit fibreglass bondo


    Second suit cardboard


    Current suit steel





    In the meantime, back in the beginning..... read on.

    Not sure if I will do the whole suit yet. This is my first helmet and i am enjoying the heck out of it. Currently I am building an observatory in my front yard, but when I run out steel, I move into the shed and continue with the helmet.

    I have made a few mistakes in the folding and gluing, but I didn't know about the lines that represent hill and valley folds, nor did I know you could switch on the numbers and have them print out on the cutouts, until AFTER I had guessed it all. In any case, this one will be good practice. If I stuff it up, I am sure I will learn heaps in the process!

    That considered, I think I did pretty well and I know that the bondo (car-body filler of any kind really?) will hide all manner of sin in the shaping process. This is Australia and I haven't checked if Bondo exists here or if we have an equivalent. I'm sure we do.

    If all goes well, then we will see if I move onto the rest of the suit.

    Here's where I'm at so far. I used 200GSM card stock to print on. Glued all together with superglue. What a God-send that stuff is!

    The shuttle you see in the pictures was done with normal A4 printer paper and PVA wood glue. What a pain in the butt that was, holding paper together and waiting for each bit to dry.

    The helmet now has two coats of resin on the outside. Ready to lay fibreglass on the inside.


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    Last edited: May 10, 2017
    mumgoot, tony t, Sl0Py0 and 1 other person like this.
  2. DBmike

    DBmike Well-Known Member

    looks pretty tidy so far, good luck with the rest of the helmet and hope you decide to build the rest of the suit :)
  3. PigBenis

    PigBenis Well-Known Member

    DAMN YOU GOT A NEW FAN DUDE !!! its definitely my next project and i love too see you doing it so i could learn something !!

    Ill follow you ! :) keep up the good work!
  4. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Cheers blokes.

    Today I coated the inside with a layer of resin too, just to be on the safe side with stiffness. I'm a bit concerned with the helmet warping differently than the faceplate and not matching up.

    Later tonight I will start patching the fibreglass mat on the inside.
  5. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Reinforcing the inside with thick fibreglass mat.

    Inside completely fibreglassed. Curing overnight.
  6. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Crikey this Noob forum moves quick!!

    I found this stuff in Super-Cheap Auto store today. I'm not sure if you can get Bondo here, but I imagine this is similar stuff? A two-part body filler for repairing dents in cars?

    Will this do the trick?


  7. TheRabbit

    TheRabbit Jr Member

    Yep, that's exactly what you need.
  8. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Thanks Rabbit.

    Tonight's work. I was able to borrow a Dremel tool and some wonderful mini-cut-off disks and sanding wheels. Makes light work of this!

    1. Fully fibreglassed, faceplate separated and eyes cut out.

    2. Faceplate test-fit. Initial sanding begins.

    3. I see potential here. Would make a great motorcycle helmet or downhill ski helmet yes?
  9. TheRabbit

    TheRabbit Jr Member

    Looks nice! I wouldn't recommend using it for motorcycling/skiing though. If you were serious about that (and not just making a joke) let me know and I'll show you some of the tests that actual motorcycle helmets go through before being sold to the public.
  10. RSpartain7

    RSpartain7 Jr Member

    Wow this is looking awesome!
  11. Assassin3698


    Nice work so far man but make sure you take care of those fiberglass "shards" by sanding them down or taking them out with a dremel. Great job and Good Luck.
  12. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Thanks mate. Yes, did all the sanding of the shards.

    First layer of body-filler applied - roughing out the shape. Curing to rock-hard overnight ready for sanding tomorrow.

  13. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    First sanding and shaping layer of body-filler done, ready for the next layer. Got some edges to match up a little, but fitting together better than I expected.


  14. Animagmus

    Animagmus Jr Member

    Yeah, Super Cheap only stock Septone now, rather than the 3m stuff which having worked with both I really think is better. If you get sick of borrowing the dremel, Bunnings have a rotary tool for $40 that works well. Build looks awesome +1 subscribed.
  15. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Tanks mate.

    This mask has been bugging me and I've come to the decision to trash it and start again.

    The problem is that I printed it off without the numbers, as I did not know about them at the time. Nor did I know that the lines indicate hill folds and valley folds.
    This has resulted in torsion of both the faceplate AND the helmet, making it warped and uneven.

    Plus, there are parts I would not bother with and parts I would not cut next time. I would also make the helmet and mask together as one, fibreglass and bondo, then cut the faceplate off after, to ensure perfect alignment.

    Tony Stark is the extraordinary engineer and his suit should reflect that in it's precision. I can't live with a warped helmet.

    In saying that, getting this far has been an AWESOME learning experience. I've never worked with car-body-filler before, but it's great stuff to work and shape. I can't wait to start again, knowing what I know now.

  16. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    A bit frustrated.

    Help needed SCALING my MK IV Iron man helmet.

    I've tried sifting through an overwhelming number of posts here on scaling. I can't make head or tail of any of it. Many of the sticky threads have NO links and lots of garbled code where text should be. I am wondering if I am missing something?

    I just downloaded pep designer 3 and found the 2D part where you can change the settings, but have no idea what to input.

    Where am I supposed to measure my head from? My head is 59cm in circumference (where a hat brim would sit) and 29cm vertically from chin to top of head. Do I need to measure it from front to back as well?

    How does this translate into the settings I need to put into the "Change Pattern Size" dialogue box? (Picture below)

    Any help please?



  17. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Got help in another thread.

    OK, starting again from scratch, this time scaled to fit AND with the edge ID printed on it, to help me align. Now I know which lines represent hill and valley folds, it is soooooo much simpler to assemble correctly instead of GUESSING!

  18. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Using the edge ID numbers really makes a difference to the shape and overall appearance of this thing! Who'd have thought hey? Jaw and bottom half of faceplate assembled.

  19. Admiral Tiberius

    Admiral Tiberius Jr Member

    I hear you about the warping bugging you, even the slightest bit makes me cringe on my build. Its awesome that you aren't afraid to start over again, your first helm still looked pretty slick from what I can tell. Good luck man.
  20. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Thanks mate.

    This helmet is exactly the same as my last attempt, but using the numbers and fold designators changes the shape and overall appearance of it dramatically.

  21. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Only the top half of the faceplate to go.

  22. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    RIGHT! Second attempt at the MkIV helmet. This time it looks much better and has a well-matched and symmetrical shape. A couple more minor alignment adjustments and it's ready for a couple of coats of resin on the outside.

    Some problems along the way with a few glues. Tarzan Grip worked well. One Superglue worked well and another Superglue would not stick to anything but my fingers. I ended up finishing it with standard PVA wood glue. A little slower to stick, but the trick was to use vary thin layers of it.

  23. Animagmus

    Animagmus Jr Member

    Second pep looks great, practice makes perfect. What superglue was it that stuck to nothing but your fingers?
  24. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    Just a cheap tube from the supermarket. You get what you pay for I guess.
  25. Sandbagger

    Sandbagger Well-Known Member

    1. This time I'm using temporary adjustable telescoping braces on the inside to help shape the helmet while the resin cures.

    2. Temporary tabs fixed on the outside to hold shape and spacing while the resin cures.

    3. Just about to start the first coat of resin. Comparing the new Pepakura attempt (left) with the first try. (Right.)
    BradSparten235 and SPARTAN 149 like this.

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