Seeking advice on CNC routing weapons

[kilroyactual117]

Hello all,

i recently saw some threads about people using a cnc wood router for producing weapins based on cad files. I found a file for the halo 4 battle rifle in the file archive and thoughts it might be a good weapon to try this out on, as I have acess to one of these routers at my local techshop, however, I noticed several pieces (charging handle, ammo counter, interior of the optic) hang over the edge of the weapon in a way I know the router bit wouldn't be able to reach. I don't know anything about CNC wood routers yet, but I am just wondering if that would cause a huge problem. Depicted bellow are the parts I think may have problems:



Any help is apreciated, thanks.

 

[peterthethinker]

Ive never milled wood , just copper and Al and various plastics.
You say CNC , is this a dremel on a frame or a Tormach or better?
I would learn some G code tweaks with a pause in your program. so you can index a part and then clamp it in however you need to in order to get to the insides .
However The sights like that on a real firearm is often removable On the top rail . so use that excuse to make it as a 2ed part .
.


I print so Ive also got that same issue with overhangs!.

 

[kilroyactual117]

Ive never milled wood , just copper and Al and various plastics.
You say CNC , is this a dremel on a frame or a Tormach or better?
I would learn some G code tweaks with a pause in your program. so you can index a part and then clamp it in however you need to in order to get to the insides .
However The sights like that on a real firearm is often removable On the top rail . so use that excuse to make it as a 2ed part .
.


I print so Ive also got that same issue with overhangs!.

Thanks, I printed the same m6 you did by the way. As for the machine, it's a shopbot CNC wood router. I thoughts about cutting the optic off and 3d printing it, I suppose I could do the same thing with the charging handle but the ammo counter would be tricky. Anyway, thanks for the advice.

 

[RobTC]

And therein lies the inherent problem with 3-axis "mills". If you can index it at the end of a run, it's doable. That's easier said than done though, on a basic table router.

Personally, I cut those parts out separately with a scroll saw and band saw, so you'd probably be better off leaving them as angled flats and making the walls separately to stick on afterward.

 

[kilroyactual117]

And therein lies the inherent problem with 3-axis "mills". If you can index it at the end of a run, it's doable. That's easier said than done though, on a basic table router.

Personally, I cut those parts out separately with a scroll saw and band saw, so you'd probably be better off leaving them as angled flats and making the walls separately to stick on afterward.

Thanks, I'll try that when I finally take the class for this.

 

[RobTC]

Thanks, I'll try that when I finally take the class for this.

Here are some of the pics. I put PVC behind because the slide cover looks curved inside. But you could easily make it so that it's just the top part and the inside, then add the slide walls afterward.

 

[kilroyactual117]

Here are some of the pics. I put PVC behind because the slide cover looks curved inside. But you could easily make it so that it's just the top part and the inside, then add the slide walls afterward.

View attachment 17884 View attachment 17885 View attachment 17886 View attachment 17887

Cool dude, thanks.