Shell Shock

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Spartan648

Member
I had a little time today and finally got a chance to try out the sample of Shell Shock resin from smooth on
This would be great stuff to make armor with and there are two flavors of shell shock Fast and slow
here is part of the tech bulletin

TECHNICAL OVERVIEW
Product Pot Life Demold Time Full Cure Color Durometer
Shell Shock™
FAST 3 minutes Variable
(mass sensitive)
1 hour at 3/8” (1 cm) thickness Beige Shore 85D

Shell Shock™
SLOW 8 minutes Variable
(mass sensitive)
5 hours at 3/8” (1 cm) thickness Beige Shore 85D



Here is what Smooth-On says about it

In response to customer requests for a “non-fiber filled” thixotropic plastic that will hold a vertical surface, Smooth-On has developed a product we are calling “Shell Shock™”. “Shell” because because the plastic can be used to form a shell and “shock” in reference to this product’s good impact resistance vs. other products on the market.

Applications - Shell Shock™is ideal for making fast, lightweight rigid molds and for creating silicone appliances and effects (use as a replacement for ‘stone molds’). You can also brush a “gel coat” into a rubber mold and back it up with rigid foam, creating a highly detailed lightweight casting. This product can be brushed onto styrofoam (polystyrol) as an impact resistant coating that can be sanded, primed and painted (minimum 3 coats recommended).

Shell Shock™ can also be used to make thin, lightweight rigid support shells (mother molds) to support brush-on rubber molds. It is mixed 1A:3B by volume and steadily develops thixotropy (becomes thick). Applied in thin sections, the mixture will hold a vertical surface. Like any brush-on material, if you apply too thick it will sag.

Pot life is on the fast side at about 3 minutes which helps with thixotropy, but you have to be aware of your working time. The material will stick to itself, so you can quickly build 3 to 4 layers to a minimum recommended thickness of 3/8” (1 cm) which is recommended for impact resistance. Time between coats is about 15 minutes depending on mass. Do not disturb the previous layer. Material cures in about 1 hour at room temperature (depending on mass). Gel time and cure time can be reduced with mild heat.

I used it to reniforce a Boba Fett Helmet I was casting and it started to warm up as I was mixing it, so I poured it into
the inside of the helmet and started to slush cast with it until it was too thick to move, then I used a brush
as far as I am concerned it work well as a brush on resin or for slush casting. I think it would work great with fiber glass cloth
by it self it has a shore 85D hardness.

It is mixed by volume not weight so a scale is not needed, I used 3oz dixie cups
so I mixed 9oz of resin and 3oz of hardner and in about two minutes I felt the cup getting warm.
I will try to post some video on my next test

Spartan 648
 

link4044

Sr Member
i would back it fiberglass, be careful when addin a 2nd coat it might degass on itself and case air bubbles to forum later on.....that stuff does have a self life (like a month or so) once you get try to use all of it...i like it it takes pigment kolor really well also
 

Spartan648

Member
link4044 said:
i would back it fiberglass, be careful when addin a 2nd coat it might degass on itself and case air bubbles to forum later on.....that stuff does have a self life (like a month or so) once you get try to use all of it...i like it it takes pigment kolor really well also

Just from the test I did on the inside of the Fett helmet, I seen no evidence of it degassing but I will keep a eye out for that
the surface finish on the inside of the helmet is very smooth and is just as hard as they say and made the helmet a litle more heavy. I have had a chance to try quite a few different smooth-on products and they all take pigment very well.
Now I mixed 9oz of the base with 3oz of the hardner and by the looks of the container I used about half of the sample kit
so next test I do should finish it off.
I had an Idea to use an old frezzer that no longer works with a vacuum pump hooked up to it as a storage area for
opened polyurethane resin.
 
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link4044

Sr Member
yeah it happens once in awhile.....i like the stuff but i like the fast stuff better.......300 doesnt take pigment it kinda weakens it
 

Ares

Well-Known Member
So basically how this work is like for an example you have a cardboard Marine helmet. You brush this on, let it dry, and it's hard? 3 coats will make it available for things like painting, sanding, dremeling?
 

Spartan648

Member
Ares said:
So basically how this work is like for an example you have a cardboard Marine helmet. You brush this on, let it dry, and it's hard? 3 coats will make it available for things like painting, sanding, dremeling?

Yes that sums it up, Just remember that there are two different shell shock resins one with a 3min working time and one with a 8min working time, Depending on how much you mix will also efect the working time smaller batches are best
and be sure to apply your next coat while your first coat still has a little bit of tack to it and is no longer in a liquid state
If you let any of the coats that you apply cure to the point where the surface is hard and shiny, you will need to lightly sand the surface for the next coat to stick fiber glass cloth could be put between the layers of resin as well.

Feel free to PM me any questions or just ask right here


Spartan 648
 
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Adam

Community Founder
don't drop it, it will shatter ;-)

I got some, but I should have gotten the "quick" stuff. Somehow I ended up with the 1 hour junk.
 

CGClone

Member
Ive used it. My 2 cents is its meant to be a gel coat/beauty coat. Like Adam said, it will shatter. If you get it warm even after its cured, it tends to droop and bend. Its picky stuff and the shelf life will kill you if you dont use it all up. Use it or lose it LOL. In my opinion its not for someone who has never used resin or casting materials before, it takes some ingenuity to use it as an outer coat. Inner coat for reinforcement its so-so. Its meant to be backed by something else mostly. Just my thoughts.
 

BenStreeper

Well-Known Member
i'd stay away from the stuff I use to use it to make my armor but it doesn't ship well and breaks quite easy. Spend the extra for a good quality plastic.
 
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