Silicone Alternatives.

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LastSpartan said:
You need to apply it in thin layers as it dries with air, not with an hardener.

What I did, is I used 12 coats of "pure" latex, latex mold builder with nothing in. Then, the 8 other layers were with some cheese cloth between them, just like you'd do fiberglass.



20-40 coats is way too much. Will make your mold more durable, but not as strechy. And by the way, it takes days to make ONE mold.



As a coat takes about 30-60 minutes to cure depending of the temperature. And your time ;)



cool! where could i find this cheese cloth?
 
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Here you guys go - replace the word silicone with latex. This should answer all your questions:



Part 1:




Part 2:




Part 3:




Cheers,

Kensai
 
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ratchet_fan said:
cool! where could i find this cheese cloth?



I actually can't recall. Just take a piece of cloth that is really thin and that the fibers are spaced evenly ^^











It's like fiberglassing, instead the mat is a piece of cloth, and the resin is latex (For the 8 last coats)
 
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What should you use as a release for the fiberglass if it is a multi-part mold. Can you use car wax? I've seen it used before.



Super-Ang
 
Can you still make keys for the mold with latex? in the first video Ithica used the bottom of cups to make the keys, does this method still work for making latex keys?
 
thanks for the youtube stuff! ok well not i think i am going to give my helmet a rub down of clay so i can smooth a few things out. i seem to be more gifted in the clay department rather than bondo... dont ask me why.... i just have to find a clay that will stay moist or not get crumbly. i think there is some at freddies



and would a pillow case work for the cloth between latex coats?
 
Super-Ang said:
What should you use as a release for the fiberglass if it is a multi-part mold. Can you use car wax? I've seen it used before.



Super-Ang



I've never used fiberglass as a mother mold, but I heard you need wax + PVA.

Condor said:
Can you still make keys for the mold with latex? in the first video Ithica used the bottom of cups to make the keys, does this method still work for making latex keys?

Yes, make the keys out of something like bottle caps and cover them in latex



ratchet_fan said:
thanks for the youtube stuff! ok well not i think i am going to give my helmet a rub down of clay so i can smooth a few things out. i seem to be more gifted in the clay department rather than bondo... dont ask me why.... i just have to find a clay that will stay moist or not get crumbly. i think there is some at freddies



and would a pillow case work for the cloth between latex coats?



Oil clay. In theory, you could use any brand of clay as latex cures even if there's sulpur, but I'd recommend using non-sulphur clay as you can re-use it after.











I don't know if that cloth would work. I've used this :
ricotta3.jpg










You can see well the fibers in that pic.
 
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any one try joey coz's method for making hot glue parts from a mold? i think it's a sticky now. it has a method of curing silicon caulk by adding bleach. i think i will try this on the butt or cod plate maybe the MK VI stomach and tell ya if it works with hot glue, if it does maybe it will work with other materials .
 
@ LastSpartan: What do you mean by PVA? And instead of fiberglass, what do you use for the mother mold?



Super-Ang
 
Super-Ang said:
@ LastSpartan: What do you mean by PVA? And instead of fiberglass, what do you use for the mother mold?



Super-Ang



PVA stands for PolyVinyl Alcohol. 





It's another type of release agent http://www.barnesonline.com.au/InfoPages/inforeleasepva.htm









I used plaster. It never worked, that's why I never completed that mold ;)









I'd use Plasti-paste or Fiberglass if I were you. I was just pointing out I have no experience making a mother mold with fiberglass and all information I gave you are from what I heard and read, here and in the molding&casting handbook ;)
 
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cool perfect! well i screwed up though... i tried to cover some of my almost finished helmet with clay so that i could have an easier way to smooth it out instead of bondo.... that was stupid. i am in the process of more bondo now. the clay was a waste of time...



and i will be taking your advice on the non sulfuric clay! thanks LastSpartan!
 
LastSpartan said:
PVA stands for PolyVinyl Alcohol. 





It's another type of release agent http://www.barnesonline.com.au/InfoPages/inforeleasepva.htm









I used plaster. It never worked, that's why I never completed that mold ;)









I'd use Plasti-paste or Fiberglass if I were you. I was just pointing out I have no experience making a mother mold with fiberglass and all information I gave you are from what I heard and read, here and in the molding&casting handbook ;)





Where can you get Plasti-paste? I've heard of it, but do you know a cheap retailer or somewhere I can get it? Thanks for all of your help!



Super-Ang
 
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Super-Ang said:
Where can you get Plasti-paste? I've heard of it, but do you know a cheap retailer or somewhere I can get it? Thanks for all of your help!



Super-Ang

It's a smooth-on product. Any smooth-on distributor should carry it, or you can order it online from TheEngineerGuy (405th supplier) or Smooth-on's main website.









You can find your local distributor here









ratchet_fan said:
cool perfect! well i screwed up though... i tried to cover some of my almost finished helmet with clay so that i could have an easier way to smooth it out instead of bondo.... that was stupid. i am in the process of more bondo now. the clay was a waste of time...



and i will be taking your advice on the non sulfuric clay! thanks LastSpartan!







If you are doing a latex mold, no need to remove the clay. If it's a water-based clay. It will be risky as waterbase clays cures and often cracks when used in large quantities. Especially when the mold is long to make, give the clay plenty of time to crack.









If it's a oil clay containing sulphur, it will work just fine with Latex or molding rubber. You won't be able to use it with silicon ;)









Sulphur oil clays are cheaper too.
 
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yea... it was a water based clay and cranked. thats why i had to get rid of it. i think i'll be sculpting the odst helmet helmet out of clay so i'll do the oil based clay with sulfur then ultimately molding that from a latex. this has been really helpful. also too i think i am going to vacuum form the shins and the thighs and the cod piece. i think that for those lover detail parts that would be the easiest way to pump a few copies out.



i am doing this with a friend.... but right now i seem to be doing all the work and spending all the money...



oh and i also found this Clay here that is an oil based and is sulfur free. that way if i choose to i could use a silicone! (but i wont anyway)
 
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