Sooth cast experiment
- Thread starter pmw3
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Smoothcast is not as non-toxic as you think. Have a look at the MSDS.
the only hazardous material listed in the msds is methylene bisphenyl isocyanate and that only causes irritation.
source: http://www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_253300.html
source: http://www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_253300.html
Note the exposure limits; They don't set these so low just for the fun of it. It's also a sensitisation agent (check this, especially note the chapter on health effects) and classified as category 3 according to the European Dangerous Substances Directive (=unconfirmed but suspected carcinogen). The document I linked speaks of "potential carcogenity" as well, and the document you linked (by the way, the last revision date of that was in 1992... are they serious?!) says it's classified as IARC group 3, which basically says the same, although the phrasing is pretty misleading in my opinion.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to put you down or anything. I'm just saying that I don't think it's adequate to just say "it's safe" and treat it like water.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to put you down or anything. I'm just saying that I don't think it's adequate to just say "it's safe" and treat it like water.
If we're going by the most recent document than the msds (updated Dec 23, 2009) states: "these products do not contain any chemicals which have been identified by the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm." sounds better than: maybe, probably.
As for respiratory effects, I think the pages you linked seemed more for industrial scale. Most of the information seemed to imply that I would be spraying this material into the atmosphere. And I can understand the complications that would cause. But I really can't find anything that would apply to this form of usage, although I'm considering using a resperator the next time I use this plastic
As for respiratory effects, I think the pages you linked seemed more for industrial scale. Most of the information seemed to imply that I would be spraying this material into the atmosphere. And I can understand the complications that would cause. But I really can't find anything that would apply to this form of usage, although I'm considering using a resperator the next time I use this plastic
Yeah, exposure is going to be a lot higher if you spray this stuff around eight hours a day, that is clear. The point is: Sensitisation depends a lot on your body and can happen even if you use this stuff only for hobby purposes. The possible results of that apply to both home and occupational users.
But I'm glad to see that we have reached agreement
But I'm glad to see that we have reached agreement
It seems to take three 9 ounce cups (or most of a trial kit) to harden a mark six helmet. There seems to be a lot of cleaning work to do on the out side of the helmet. I tried to take pictures but I had a hard time getting the details to show. But it does sand rather easily. On the inside there are no sharp pointy parts making it easy to wear, even though it seems to be a little front heavy. But I think that might be the design of the helmet itself. Although not very cost effective, I would definitely recommend Smooth Cast over fiberglass resin for several reasons:
1. Less Toxic than Fiberglass resin.
2. Quick, easy set up. Lay down some newspaper, gloves and a respirator if you lack necessary ventilation.
3. Worked as expected on first try. I tried using aqua resin after seeing a youtube video of someone using it on pep; it completely killed any pep that I put it on.
4. Scientific measuring, its kind of hard to mess up a 1:1 ratio. Fiberglass resin the instructions almost literally say add a couple of drops of hardener for a little bit of resin, I prefer the exactness of the smooth cast. There is an absolute measurement with aqua resin, but the measurement on the instructions always killed my pep.
There are cons to this though:
1. Concentrated fumes may cause damage to your lungs
2. It is a bit of an <expletive> to get off your table once it sets so wipe up spills quickly.
1. Less Toxic than Fiberglass resin.
2. Quick, easy set up. Lay down some newspaper, gloves and a respirator if you lack necessary ventilation.
3. Worked as expected on first try. I tried using aqua resin after seeing a youtube video of someone using it on pep; it completely killed any pep that I put it on.
4. Scientific measuring, its kind of hard to mess up a 1:1 ratio. Fiberglass resin the instructions almost literally say add a couple of drops of hardener for a little bit of resin, I prefer the exactness of the smooth cast. There is an absolute measurement with aqua resin, but the measurement on the instructions always killed my pep.
There are cons to this though:
1. Concentrated fumes may cause damage to your lungs
2. It is a bit of an <expletive> to get off your table once it sets so wipe up spills quickly.
Charlieiscool12
Member
The way to do it is to buy smootcast 321 and paint that on the outside (it takes about 15 minutes to start to gel)
then buy smootcast roto and slushcast that on the inside.
I do this and my pieces are as hard as 2-3 layers of fiberglass
then buy smootcast roto and slushcast that on the inside.
I do this and my pieces are as hard as 2-3 layers of fiberglass
FearlessMonguse
New Member
thanks i might try this out, did u ever finish your armor?
S15Costuming
Active Member
i'm planning to try this asap with a low def handplate... thanks for the tip! :3
S15Costuming
Active Member
Check out Smooth On's website to buy from them directly...although there are some local stores that sell trial size kits depending on where you live! I would recommend something from the Smooth Cast 300 series because it is easy to use. :3
www.smooth-on.com
Holy heck you mixed up a BUTTLOAD of plastic there. When I was hardening my suit, I would mix up about a third of that amount to slush around the inside. This stuff goes VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY far.
Also, when you have a huge mass of the stuff (like in the cup), it will harden faster. It hardens like any other resin: the hotter it gets, the faster it cures. So, if you mix up a lot, SPREAD IT OUT!!! FAST!!!!
Also, when you have a huge mass of the stuff (like in the cup), it will harden faster. It hardens like any other resin: the hotter it gets, the faster it cures. So, if you mix up a lot, SPREAD IT OUT!!! FAST!!!!
sadly no, but I wasn't really doing these pieces for any particular suit it was just an experiment to see if it lived up to what I've read.
for the whole suit? It took a total of three fulls to finish a Mark VI helmet. Although I did loose a lot of product by not sealing the holes in the pep. Jedi stumpy has suggested fiberglass resin, I'll take him up on that as soon as the weather decides to finally warm up
S15Costuming
Active Member
couldn't you just seal the holes with hot glue? :\
You do it in thin layers so you fill those gaps in the pep, and so you get even layering on the entire piece. I probably did 15 layers on my helmet, but I mixed only enough to roll around inside in the helmet. Any extra, I poured out into another piece and rolled it around until it either hardened or it stopped flowing.
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