Spartan1313's Miscellaneous Cardboard

Spartan1313

New Member
Well, I have been experimenting with cardboard, partly to see if I can make foam things, but mostly because it's cheap.

I have decided that this first helmet shall be Caboose, mostly because I made a lot of mistakes while making it, some of them painful. "Rest in peace pinky toe, you shall be avenged." -Michael J Caboose

Photoon1-12-14at513PM_zps3151c3cf.jpg

I dunno what I will do with it, but I guess I will seal it somehow and paint it. We'll see! Please Critique all the stuff here, the purpose of this is to practice, so be as nit picky as you want.


Next Project: Prefect Helmet
 

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foxleader

Well-Known Member
as a cardboard builder you can add details by laying thin card stock on top and to seal it resin then paint.
 

Spartan1313

New Member
Well, I have made my second cardboard helmet. This time it is the Halo 4 prefect helmet. I think I did a lot better on this one than the last one. It helped a lot to be able to manipulate the thing in the theater mode in addition to having the pepakura model open. By the way, the prefect model in the 4shared database is 100% accurate, which was convenient.

Photoon1-15-14at513PM_zpsee55fce5.jpg

The only problem is that it is just a little small. the triangular piece only fits to my nose, not to my chin. Oh well, it still looks great next to my tv while I play.

I have also decided what I will do with all these helmets. Once they all are nice looking, I am going to wear them all TF2 style in a large connected and somehow impossibly balanced stack :D
 

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Spartan1313

New Member
I have a few questions about foam for everyone.

1) How many different thicknesses of foam are usually necessary
2) From what stores (in the US) can you get EVA foam mats cheaply
3) How do you seal the seams? I have heard about modgepodge, silicon, etc. What is this stuff and how do you use it?
4) How safe is plasti-dip? how much should it cost (again in US)
5) what types of knives/cutters are best? I have heard everything from box cutters to surgical knives.
6) how do you keep everything symmetrical? (I keep messing this up with cardboard)

I know that these are a lot of questions, and there are probably answers somewhere. I just wanted to hear some fresh answers from someone new. A lot of either vague or highly specific stuff has been said about all this. I'm trying to avoid getting too many different materials and tools, so the solutions where I have to mix a whole bunch of weird and highly specific chemicals are not what I am looking for.
 

BMP Props

Member
I have a few questions about foam for everyone.

In my opinion...
1) How many different thicknesses of foam are usually necessary
2) From what stores (in the US) can you get EVA foam mats cheaply
3) How do you seal the seams? I have heard about modgepodge, silicon, etc. What is this stuff and how do you use it?
4) How safe is plasti-dip? how much should it cost (again in US)
5) what types of knives/cutters are best? I have heard everything from box cutters to surgical knives.
6) how do you keep everything symmetrical? (I keep messing this up with cardboard)

I know that these are a lot of questions, and there are probably answers somewhere. I just wanted to hear some fresh answers from someone new. A lot of either vague or highly specific stuff has been said about all this. I'm trying to avoid getting too many different materials and tools, so the solutions where I have to mix a whole bunch of weird and highly specific chemicals are not what I am looking for.
1. I use three thicknesses- 1/2" (floor mats), 6mm foamies, and 2mm foamies
2. I buy EVA floor mats at Harbor Freight, they are on sale like every other week at $7.99 a pack
3. I use modpodge for big ugly seems, just fill the seam and walk away, it self levels.
4. As safe as any other spray can, use a respirator, its my sealer of choice. Also self leveling.
5. X-acto Z series, they are the ones with the gold edges, I find them to be the best.
6. Best way to keep symmetrical is to print only one half of the model's parts and flip them for the right or left sides, this way you know that it is exactly the same on both sides. Just take your time cutting and assembling.

Hope this helps!
 

Spartan1313

New Member
Thank you Chefbzd, your answers were very good. Nice armor too :)

Photoon1-22-14at1028PM_zps890ea985.jpg

So, I painted my Caboose helmet with some blue spray paint I had lying around. After that, I decided the seams looked bad and spackeled them. I think I will hand paint the helmet with some acrylic paint... we'll see.
 

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Spartan1313

New Member
I finished up Caboose, he is still drying. In the meantime, here is a Halo Magnum (no particular make or model just a generic)

Photoon1-28-14at951PM2_zps5dcfc306.jpg

I made it entirely out of cardboard, then painted it with with some basic black and white acrylic paints. Nothing amazing, but it feels solid and is very light-weight.
 

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CLOTHAR

Member
I have a few questions about foam for everyone.

1) How many different thicknesses of foam are usually necessary
2) From what stores (in the US) can you get EVA foam mats cheaply
3) How do you seal the seams? I have heard about modgepodge, silicon, etc. What is this stuff and how do you use it?
4) How safe is plasti-dip? how much should it cost (again in US)
5) what types of knives/cutters are best? I have heard everything from box cutters to surgical knives.
6) how do you keep everything symmetrical? (I keep messing this up with cardboard)

I know that these are a lot of questions, and there are probably answers somewhere. I just wanted to hear some fresh answers from someone new. A lot of either vague or highly specific stuff has been said about all this. I'm trying to avoid getting too many different materials and tools, so the solutions where I have to mix a whole bunch of weird and highly specific chemicals are not what I am looking for.

Chefbzd nailed it. A bit more info for you:

1 - As he said, 2 to 3 different thicknesses are good. Also you don't always have to build things up with more layers, sometimes you can cut into it for detail.
2 - Foam mats are also usually kicking around at Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowe's. Craft foam (thinner stuff) is usually available at Michael's, and sometimes walmart.
3 - With practice and good technique you can get your seams smooth and clean during the build and not have to worry about filling them.
4 - Definitely use a respirator for spraying plasti-dip, there are some nasty chemicals in there. I think the brush on kind is less toxic.
5 - I use OLFA 9 mm blades for most of it, along with an exacto knife for fine detail. If you have a wet stone handy you can sharpen your own blades and preserve their usefulness. Always use a sharp blade, it is way easier, and gives better results.
6 - like Chef said use patterns for one side, then flip them over for the other side. Patience and care is key.
7 - have fun with it! If it feels like a chore, take a break.

Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff.
 

Spartan1313

New Member
Chefbzd nailed it. A bit more info for you:

1 - As he said, 2 to 3 different thicknesses are good. Also you don't always have to build things up with more layers, sometimes you can cut into it for detail.
2 - Foam mats are also usually kicking around at Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowe's. Craft foam (thinner stuff) is usually available at Michael's, and sometimes walmart.
3 - With practice and good technique you can get your seams smooth and clean during the build and not have to worry about filling them.
4 - Definitely use a respirator for spraying plasti-dip, there are some nasty chemicals in there. I think the brush on kind is less toxic.
5 - I use OLFA 9 mm blades for most of it, along with an exacto knife for fine detail. If you have a wet stone handy you can sharpen your own blades and preserve their usefulness. Always use a sharp blade, it is way easier, and gives better results.
6 - like Chef said use patterns for one side, then flip them over for the other side. Patience and care is key.
7 - have fun with it! If it feels like a chore, take a break.

Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff.
thanks for the tips CLOTHAR! Your space marine build is awesome, especially how you managed to get something that bulky to be wearable! I never really thought about trying to sharpen an X-acto knife... I will have to try that.
 

Spartan1313

New Member
Photoon2-9-14at1139AM_zps2e6df611.jpg

I decided I wanted to branch out from halo just a little, mostly because my art teacher suggested it. This is the mask of light from the Lego Bionicle toy series. I always wanted one that fit me when I was little... why not right?

It's not perfect, but I am glad that I was able to make it.
 

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Spartan1313

New Member
Well, one of my friends saw my last Assault Rifle, and offered to buy it. I didn't want to sell the existing one, partly because I grew a little attached to it because it was my first "successful" prop, and partly because I didn't think it was worthy of being sold. However, this would solve the money issue and allow me to move along on my builds...

We had two snow days where I live recently, so made my decision and took the opportunity to make a second model using the templates I had left over from making the first.

Photoon2-18-14at351PM2_zps41cf944f.jpg

Once again I am quite satisfied with the results! the top is the original, and the bottom is the new version. I think the new one is way more accurate than the original version as well as cleaner. What do you all think?


Also, I am hunting for foam builds for the Halo 3 Mark VI Armor. If anyone has seen any of them please let me know. I am having difficulty because searches just keep giving me Pepakura and/or Halo 4. I know there are a few, even though it isn't common.
 

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mumgoot

Member
Cool stuff! I'm pretty low-budget right now, so it's very inspiring to see others having success with cardboard and the like!
 
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