Starcraft 2 Marine WIP Build [Many Pictures]

[wirewyrm]

Hi all, I'm new here and thought I'd just throw up some images of my current build, a marine from starcraft 2.

I've got two of these to get finished for the Milton Keynes collectormania in November so pressure is on.

I'm using alot of different materials and methods, and once this piece is done will be using slightly different methods geared towards speed and price since I am a pauper.

I've learned alot doing this one, so here's to the rest going much faster!






As you can see, it uses several non standard construction methods.

First, paper mache to save on fiber glassing costs. Yes, it IS possible to use paper mache. There are issues to work around, but it can be used.

Second, expanding foam to provide bulk to the piece. No, the expandable foam doesn't expand and destroy your pep model from the inside. It works fine.

Third, regular powder mix filler. Yes, this might be crumbly, which is why I mix it with PVA until it makes a kind of gel. Perfect for filling in large areas cheaply before a final layer or two of polyester filler. The PVA prevents crumbling, it ends up very much like the car filler, just as strong. Also the PVA makes it very spreadable, perfect for filling in minor imperfections.

Hope you all like, I shall continue to post more as I make more.

 

[JavaLodge]

Wow! That's looking great so far! I didn't think there would be anyone else on the forums doing starcraft, but I am as well. Maybe we can compare notes on difficulties that we encounter or expect. Keep going, it's looking good.

 

[DystopianDeer]

I've never played Star Craft, but this looks good. I've seen a few threads saying that PM wasn't a great idea, but it looks like you've pulled it off really well! I think you've done a great job. Are you planning on waterproofing it in some way? I know from past experience that PM and water don't mix after it's dry. I'm curious to see where else you go with this.

 

[wirewyrm]

Thanks for your support Kor. The expandable foam is already rather water resistant and the final layers of bondo type filler and car body paint renders the suit pretty much invulnerable from water. The Paper Mache layer only has to really work to hold and guide the shape of the foam and bondo, it's not structural. Other parts aren't using the expandable foam, these will be getting more of the gloss auto paint to keep the h2o out.

Javalodge, I've been using a set of pep files to match the official suits (here http://www.pendejaditas.com/?p=21950) while I see that you have created your own 3D model and pep files. My biggest issue so far is both getting the suit on and preventing my blood supply to my arms being cut off. It looks like the shape of your chest section won't cause you issues. Will be keeping an eye on your thread!

 

[CLOTHAR]

Great start. Interesting method with the PVA/filler.

 

[Ragnar]

I like how you stray from the pack and not do fiberglass or pure foam or nice to see some diversity

 

[wirewyrm]

Well, i certainly underestimated just hpw long and how much bondo work would be needed to finish a piece of this size. With the size has also come imperfections, one bit higher than the other, one bit more round than the other and the bondo is sorting those out. Its getting there, if im not done today then tomorrow. Final paint should be on within days and then i'll get to adding in details, lights, wiring etc. I came to peace with the fact that it wasnt going to be 100% perfect a while ago, what isnt quite right will simply be battle damage. More pics soon. Better ones ;-)

 

[wirewyrm]

Cheap spot putty for anyone looking to get those final holes filled without spending money. Since spot putty is just talc and a carrier agent anyways I decided to make my own. I have lots of PVA glue around, and a box of powdered filler. mix the two up as a thick paste and spread. It should spread easier than bondo filler and costs a fraction of real spot putty. Don't sand too aggresively or you'll open the hole back up, just lightly sand away the excess until it's smooth and then paint. This method is giving me some great results. Although I wasn't expecting the suit to be perfect, there are now bits that are starting to come together much better than expected. The PVA does take a while to dry though, I'd give it a good 24 hours..... although, just my 2 pennies, bondo filler might be sandable after 20 minutes but sanding it after 20 minutes and sanding it after 24 hours are two totally different experiences. Always wait if you can.

 

[wirewyrm]

update with pictures. God it takes ages. Been working on other costumes too so been delayed, still only on the chest piece....

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It's getting there. There's still a few areas need sanding and primering, but I'm at the point where it's good enough. This one's getting painted as battered and dented and artificially damaged anyways.

The hole in the back is cut out, I have pipes ready, along with wires and lights and all manner of bits for detailing. the fans all work still, so I'm very happy with where it's at now, it's very strong.

Yes, the bottoms of the arms got sawn out.... simple reason, with them in my blood circlulation to my forearms was restricted which won't make wandering a convention hall for two days very possible.

ETA: This model was my first pepakura atempt EVER. as such, it was very wonky. the fact that it now has straight lines and stuff is just because a LOT of filling and sanding has been necessary to make the two sides almost match up again. I hope further pieces will go faster.

anyway, paint soon, more updates then when it should finally start looking like a finished piece!

 

[Evilmailman]

I'm glad to see this suit get past the paper stage, even if its just one piece. Its gonna look amazing when its done!

 

[xarly220690]

Wow incredible!

 

[Stubby]

Cutting the lower portion of the chest is a wise idea. I plan on revising my build by raising the chest up so that I can start to work on a visor. This should also free up more of my arm for range of motion. Cutting the lower portion of the chest is something I am likely to have to do myself because the higher the chest goes, the further it's going to push your arms outward.

This is a very good start and it's VERY smart to start with the chest. It's a large, complicated piece but if you can spend some time early on getting it right the rest of the pieces are really very trivial.

 

[wirewyrm]

It's still going slowly. I followed your link to your build stubby, awesome stuff. At what point do you decide it's as smooth as it's gonna get? I'm now adding in detals using bondo (4th pic) so the detail is built in when I paint. There's some areas where I'm never going to get a file or sanding tool no matter what I try, some bits just seem impossible to make as good as I what. At what point do you say "That'll do!"??

--EDIT--

Panic not people of earth, I have remembered how I got the first side to be so smooth, some of my despair has lifted! Still can't wait to get the spray paint on it (this ones black, but not jim Raynor.... the other will be pink!)

 

[wirewyrm]

Thought I'd chuck this in too, this was done very quickly (4 days) for a sort of fancy dress party, but I figured I could smooth it out later.... which is what the white bit at the top of the scope is. Smooth and ready for final detailing!

I present to you, the starcraft C-10 canister rifle!

 

[JavaLodge]

How in the heck did you do this in 4 days? How did you produce it? I agree it will look much better after sanding and whatnot, but it looks pretty cool already.

 

[wirewyrm]

How did I do it.... well, by cutting corners is the honest answer. I started on sunday night, had to be at the party friday night. I have the pep model for the weapon, so started construction. I increased the size by a further 10% (good job I did tbh, it would be kinda small otherwise) to make the pep easier.... then I printed the pep out and glued each sheet onto corrugated card, then cut that out and fixed together with hot glue. No tabs. To aid organization I grouped the pep pieces together in sections and printed out one section at a time. I did not bother with the barrel. I left bits missing all over the model.....once the rear section was complete (minus scope) I added a broom handle for the barrel base and filled that sucker with expandable foam. The corrugated card and hot glue was strong enough to hold up under the internal pressure and it became really solid. The barrel was then just card scored lengthways down the corrugation, then folded and wrapped round the broom, in layers until I built up the barrel. then bondo. My bondo is never as soft/liquid as the various consistencies I see on youtube, so it sets fast and isn't so easy to get fine detail. I just covered it and 20 minutes later started sanding with the electric sander. What wasn't taken off with an electric sander.... well, tbh, it got painted. Black spray paint, half an hour to dry and I was out the door!

 

[wirewyrm]

Finally, after many months and some winter, progress is beginning again. In many places I've reaches what I think is the limit and painting is beginning!