Strengthening Pepakura Help - Non-Halo Half Face Mask

[DaDevvy]

Hi everyone, DaDevvy here.

I'm a high school student boarding in Australia who's looking to get into cosplay once I get out of the hellhole that is Year 12. So far the closest I have gotten to cosplay is making a small facemask from Pepakura software. My question is: how do I strengthen my face mask?

Please take note of my noobility. I have no experience whatsoever working in this medium. Explain it like I'm 5.

A few problems I have:
- It's not made of card-stock. It's 120gsm paper, stuck together with PVA with some of the glue also spread over the joins of the flaps on the inside. Should I reprint and remake my mask?
- Being a boarder in Australia, I know little of 'bondo'-like brands or of any kind of filler at all. I managed to get my hands on a small tube (150g) of Selleys Plasti-Bond Bog (with hardener), and I can easily access Selleys Rapid Spakfilla. Which is better/easier to use as a beginner?
- Fiberglass and resin techniques and tips, respirator types, Rondo? I want this mask to be an adequately strong piece that will last for years hopefully, or until I misplace it and never see it again. >_>
- I have a roll of Super Fibre Tape, a roll of 20m by 5cm. Is this what I need for my mask or do I have to find a large strip which covers it entirely?
- It only has the thickness of a sheet of paper. It doesn't have volume like a cube, it's virtually a curved flat surface. Would this affect the fibreglassing result in any way?
- Since the side edges curve around, would reinforcing it make it impossible to wear if I can't get my face past them? I can't wear the basic pep model without displacing the side flaps slightly.

The dimensions of the mask are 130mmx148mmx120mm (HWD). The design is (obviously) concave which I'm worried may affect the way I apply fibreglass to the form.

This is what it looks like, props (no pun intended) to ZombieGrimm on deviantART for making this thing.


THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

[LoneLegionary]

I think your best bet would be to get your hands on some smooth-cast. Im not sure about any Australian brands but I'm pretty sure you can find smooth-on products almost anywhere. They're non toxic and are easy to use.

 

[Noble 10]

all most look's like the winter soldgers mask

 

[Chernobyl]

Hi everyone, DaDevvy here.
- It's not made of card-stock. It's 120gsm paper, stuck together with PVA with some of the glue also spread over the joins of the flaps on the inside. Should I reprint and remake my mask?

I use 120gsm cardstock myself, no problems (Australia and the UK share paper weighting systems). As long as it's thicker than regular paper you'll be fine - regular paper is generally 80gsm or so, I'd suggest anything up to maybe 180gsm before it becomes difficult to work with.

- Being a boarder in Australia, I know little of 'bondo'-like brands or of any kind of filler at all. I managed to get my hands on a small tube (150g) of Selleys Plasti-Bond Bog (with hardener), and I can easily access Selleys Rapid Spakfilla. Which is better/easier to use as a beginner?

Any sort of automotive filler will suit your needs. Some research on Google should help you figure out what you need, there's very little I can do here to recommend specific brands.

- Fiberglass and resin techniques and tips, respirator types, Rondo? I want this mask to be an adequately strong piece that will last for years hopefully, or until I misplace it and never see it again.

Again, research. But, the bare-bones essentials:
- Mix small quantities
- Work smart, apply thin batches and don't be wasteful. Slapping your product on means more work sanding later, don't work like it's cake icing.
- Get a respirator rated for VAPOURS. I cannot stress this enough, a particulate respirator will not cut it and your lungs will suffer from prolonged exposure. Don't roll the dice with your health.

- I have a roll of Super Fibre Tape, a roll of 20m by 5cm. Is this what I need for my mask or do I have to find a large strip which covers it entirely?

No. This stuff is for holding plaster together, not resin, which is more viscous. Invest in some fibreglass tissue - it's easier to cut into patches and work with, and it won't add so much weight to your mask.

Generic tips: apply a coat of resin to all surfaces. Do another pass if you're concerned about structural integrity. Then glass the inside, maybe another layer of that if you're still unsure. Then bondo.

I hope that's helped you somewhat.

 

[DaDevvy]

Thanks Chernobyl.

Edited the OP to remind everyone that:
- This only has the thickness of a sheet of paper. It doesn't have volume like a cube, it's virtually a curved flat surface. Would this affect the result after fiberglassing in any way, and
- Since the side edges curve around, would reinforcing it make it impossible to wear if I can't get my face past them? I can't wear the basic pep model without displacing the side flaps slight

Still looking for tips and opinions from others as to my aforementioned problems.

 

[Chernobyl]

Thanks Chernobyl.
- This only has the thickness of a sheet of paper. It doesn't have volume like a cube, it's virtually a curved flat surface. Would this affect the result after fiberglassing in any way, and

Try to support the model with solid struts to prevent warping during the curing stage. Popsicle sticks, stiff board, anything you can use to ensure the item keeps its shape.

- Since the side edges curve around, would reinforcing it make it impossible to wear if I can't get my face past them? I can't wear the basic pep model without displacing the side flaps slight

Make it a tiny bit larger (a few millimetres, at most) than you'll need to on the size-test build. You'll need to account for three to four millimetres of fibreglass, and perhaps another two or three for foam padding to prevent that fibreglass from chafing against your face later on (assuming this will be a wearable piece).

For an enclosed this helmet this is rarely an issue, but for a smaller piece it's often worth adding a small amount of allowance for your fibreglass layers.

 

[DaDevvy]

Make it a tiny bit larger (a few millimetres, at most) than you'll need to on the size-test build. You'll need to account for three to four millimetres of fibreglass, and perhaps another two or three for foam padding to prevent that fibreglass from chafing against your face later on (assuming this will be a wearable piece).

For an enclosed this helmet this is rarely an issue, but for a smaller piece it's often worth adding a small amount of allowance for your fibreglass layers.

In other words, about 1 cm of extra space in total? And please clarify that last sentence.

And about my second question,

- Since the side edges curve around, would reinforcing it make it impossible to wear if I can't get my face past them? I can't wear the basic pep model without displacing the side flaps slightly.

By this I mean that if the piece were of a solid material like metal, I probably would only be able to wear it with an amount of difficulty. Right now the model is flexible yet easily torn, and if I coat it in resin I'm worried that it could make it so that it's so stiff I can't put my face in it because the sides don't have any 'give' to them.

 

[Chernobyl]

In other words, about 1 cm of extra space in total? And please clarify that last sentence.

There's not much I can clarify. Like I said - for a full, enclosed helmet, losing space to fibreglass layers isn't so much of an issue because the piece sits further away from the skin. A piece like this, which is designed to sit reasonably flush with the face, is a little more tricky since you're going to be making the form thicker with fibreglass and bondo layering, which will throw off the 'perfect fit' you may have had with the cardstock form. Always build a few millimetres bigger to account for this.

Right now the model is flexible yet easily torn, and if I coat it in resin I'm worried that it could make it so that it's so stiff I can't put my face in it because the sides don't have any 'give' to them.

The entire point of fibreglass is to make a cardstock form rigid and less prone to breakages. If this medium doesn't give you the result you require, I'd suggest something else like leather. I personally have a half-face leather mask, they're not too difficult to make.

 

[DaDevvy]

How would one work in leather? Is there a method that involves pepakura or something similarly easy?

I'm going to continue working in resin for this mask, I'll just need to figure out a way to mold its shape into something that works.