The First Paper Mache Tutorial

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I actually tried this the other day. Might not sound appealing, but for you aussies out there, clag paste works really well. Now, call me naive, but I'm not sure what white glue is specifically. But if it's any relation to PVA glue, don't use it. I also tried it after the clag. Once dry, it turns into a sort of plastic-silicone-type substance. It will just peel, not sand.
 
Well, I have a question. Since you're using paper mache reinforced with a flour/water mixture, couldn't you use a little bit of home-made flour clay (1 part salt, 1 part water, 2 parts clay) as the bondo spot filler? I know for a fact that you can sand that and paint it (I made models out of it for school projects when I was a kid) You could probably even seal the whole thing with wood glue after it's dry.
 
I haven't done much with my armor for awhile now (Its mostly done), but I will start to working on it more; I need to reinforce the shins a lot more. I will try to using different methods (i.e. paper mache pulp, using white glue/wood glue) than my flour-water based paper mache to reinforce then. Thanks for everyone commenting and helping this tut become a better tut :)
@ fury101
You should be able to use white glue based paper mache for your helmet. Just make sure it dries on properly. I paper mached already painted armor and tape (I used it as a sealant when I first did my helmet) and it stuck to it fine.
@ cheb-
White glue is the standard glue that you can find. Here is a pic.

@ tsau-mia
I have never used home-made flour clay, but try it on a small piece of armor first to see have it effects the piece.
 
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@hellome
I Didn't use salt I just let it dry in the sun, then spray painted it. If your worrying about mold, make sure its completely dry and spray paint between layers.

@xWarningEmp
If its flour then the paper will get worn, glue on the other hand it very sandable.
 
@Warpath5150
I don't know, never used plaster of paris before, but it seems worth a try.

@Shadow_2r5
Warpath5150 is right about paper mache, but when making pieces seperate... make sure they still line back up. Made an H2 ODST helmet, jaw warped so cut it off to work with it seperately... it fit but not perfect.
 
What about using plaster of paris?
With paper strips I don't think so but you could use the plaster strips they sell and use it in conjunction with the paper mache for support :)

Any tips to keep the sharp edges and details when mache-ing the outside?
For the sharp edges I would suggest using only 1-2 layers and then doing the rest on the inside. As for details, you could try using paper clay or a lot ov Mod Podge or even just a little ov the casting resin and pour enough to fill that small part ov the helmet :p
 
For the sharp edges I would suggest using only 1-2 layers and then doing the rest on the inside. As for details, you could try using paper clay or a lot ov Mod Podge or even just a little ov the casting resin and pour enough to fill that small part ov the helmet :p

Thanks for the tip. I'm using 1 layer or newspaper and 1 layer of copy paper on the outside right now, and the rest on the inside, and the details still seem visible.
 
Questions

I have a few questions to this... I'm making Emile Armor, all out of paper mache (I know the risks of not using papakura underneath, but I also know the dangers of using resin and fiberglass :p). I have a few questions:
1.) Does it come out heavy?
2.) Did your armor stay together well enough to use numerous times? I have a similar paste.
3.) Is it easy to sand/ detail? And how is the final texture?
 
For your questions:
1) It depends on the number of layers you have on the piece.

2) It does, but in my paper macheing add card board reinforcements, to lessen warpage. Take time in making sure it doesn't while it dries too.

3) My final texture on my first helmet was rough, but second helmet( card board reinforcemented) and sanded it was relativly smooth.
 
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