thinking about starting over


Mechace13

New Member
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this is my first time and thinking about redoing it thoughts
 

Electraknite

Active Member
what kind and any sealing tips with colors to use a the base color
People like barge contact cement, I’ve only use lepage brand. most heavy duty contact cements will do fine.
Utility knives for big cuts, exacto knives for small precise ones. Rotary tools are also really handy if you can get one for cleaning up jagged cuts. youll either need to stock up on blades or use a sharpener to prolong the life of one. 400g Sandpaper will work to sharpen blades as well.
i Use plasti dip to seal my foam, it stays fairly flexible that way. You can use mod podge or latex as well. depends on preferences and what finish you want.
black is My fav base color, grey works too.
 

Jurassic

Member
what kind and any sealing tips with colors to use a the base color
I definitely prefer Barge cement over regular, it just seemed to work better for me. Maybe the climate. For sealing Electraknife got it all covered. You can use any colour plastidip if need be, you're painting over it again anyways. I have a shelf full of every colour so using what's on hand works great! You can also use straight acrylic monomer to seal. It will have a number of names depending upon the manufacturer, for example at my work we sell it as acrylic clear plus.

Another thing to consider when choosing blades, get yourself a hobby knife kit with all the different types of blades. It will give you an assortment to choose from, and then you can figure out which style you like best. Can never go wrong with an 11. Using a mini box knife works well too.

If you are having trouble with a curve, slice the inside of the curve ever so slightly.
 

Mechace13

New Member
People like barge contact cement, I’ve only use lepage brand. most heavy duty contact cements will do fine.
Utility knives for big cuts, exacto knives for small precise ones. Rotary tools are also really handy if you can get one for cleaning up jagged cuts. youll either need to stock up on blades or use a sharpener to prolong the life of one. 400g Sandpaper will work to sharpen blades as well.
i Use plasti dip to seal my foam, it stays fairly flexible that way. You can use mod podge or latex as well. depends on preferences and what finish you want.
black is My fav base color, grey works too.
what do acrylic paint work for that final paint job
 

Mechace13

New Member
People like barge contact cement, I’ve only use lepage brand. most heavy duty contact cements will do fine.
Utility knives for big cuts, exacto knives for small precise ones. Rotary tools are also really handy if you can get one for cleaning up jagged cuts. youll either need to stock up on blades or use a sharpener to prolong the life of one. 400g Sandpaper will work to sharpen blades as well.
i Use plasti dip to seal my foam, it stays fairly flexible that way. You can use mod podge or latex as well. depends on preferences and what finish you want.
black is My fav base color, grey works too.
and the cement can i get it at walmart
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RXO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S068
I definitely prefer Barge cement over regular, it just seemed to work better for me.
Us Canadians also get kind of "meh" tier contact cement in comparison. LePage you kind of need to use two coats which take half an hour to tack up before they're at the same level as Barge.
 

Electraknite

Active Member
ya you can paint over all the sealer coats with acrylic paint. spray paint has better coverage though so its nice to do a base coat of whatever color most of the armor is, then layer on extra color with a brush or airbrush.
ya walmart should have contact cement. home depot always has it too.
Im also using walmart boots as a base for my build :lol:

ODST Emory contact cement is glue you spread on each side of your foam pieces and once it dries a bit you can stick both together. its just a lot cleaner, stronger and more forgiving than hot glue for any join you want to be invisible. hot glue is good for strengthening the interior of a seam. once you use it you wont go back to hot glue. its the best. theres a ton of foam smithing tutorials on youtube. check out punished props or evil ted smith.
 

Mechace13

New Member
ya you can paint over all the sealer coats with acrylic paint. spray paint has better coverage though so its nice to do a base coat of whatever color most of the armor is, then layer on extra color with a brush or airbrush.
ya walmart should have contact cement. home depot always has it too.
Im also using walmart boots as a base for my build :lol:

ODST Emory contact cement is glue you spread on each side of your foam pieces and once it dries a bit you can stick both together. its just a lot cleaner, stronger and more forgiving than hot glue for any join you want to be invisible. hot glue is good for strengthening the interior of a seam. once you use it you wont go back to hot glue. its the best. theres a ton of foam smithing tutorials on youtube. check out punished props or evil ted smith.
would elmer's cement work or do you think i should use something else
 

PlanetAlexander

Well-Known Member
The rubber cement? I get the confusion, but you'll be looking for contact cement. Rubber cement is different somehow (I don't know how, I know it can be used in painting latex but that's another story)
 

Fallen

Active Member
Member DIN
S922
You definitely want to get a contact cement (Barge, Dap Weldwood, etc.). Use a respirator with that stuff though; it can be pretty nasty.

what do acrylic paint work for that final paint job
You can certainly use acrylic paints for your paint job, whether brushed on or thinned and sprayed with an airbrush. Biggest downside to brushing on is just that it tends to leave brush strokes vs. airbrush or spray paint. Due to crunch time, my Pidge armor a few years ago was all hand painted w/ acrylics, and it worked out perfectly for the situation. For more control over the color, there's also the option of buying a paint sample of whatever color you want from a hardware store applied the same, brush or airbrush(thinned), as for acrylics.
 

Mechace13

New Member
You definitely want to get a contact cement (Barge, Dap Weldwood, etc.). Use a respirator with that stuff though; it can be pretty nasty.


You can certainly use acrylic paints for your paint job, whether brushed on or thinned and sprayed with an airbrush. Biggest downside to brushing on is just that it tends to leave brush strokes vs. airbrush or spray paint. Due to crunch time, my Pidge armor a few years ago was all hand painted w/ acrylics, and it worked out perfectly for the situation. For more control over the color, there's also the option of buying a paint sample of whatever color you want from a hardware store applied the same, brush or airbrush(thinned), as for acrylics.
i have a low funding for the armor and no airbrush kit and acrylic paint is cheep and know of any brands i should use and NEVER EVER use for painting
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RXO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Member DIN
S068
ok then can someone please give me a name of a contact cement that i can look for
Barge is the best contact cement you can easily buy most places. DAP or LePage are okay second choices for brands.

i have a low funding for the armor and no airbrush kit and acrylic paint is cheep and know of any brands i should use and NEVER EVER use for painting
It's generally not an issue with brands being bad but mixing of paint types chemically not working well together. Pick something, follow the application instructions for recoating times and everything usually works out fine.

Rustoleum is a good middle of the road spray paint option and FolkArt are fairly reliable brush on paints that come in small bottles.
 

Jurassic

Member
If you end up wanting a spray paint use Krylon fusion, or duplicolor (automotive). These are both super cheap if you are in USA. Krylon should be around $6-10 usd.

I use these spray paints for my builds since they have the best spartanesque colours imo.
 

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