used A4 by mistake

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cys920622

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dank, i went and made a pepakura helmet out of A4 paper!
it's kinda flimsy and the helmet kinda droops (cuz i didnt put that visor part in there.)

should i put the visor part in to help it hold its shape while i resin it and fiberglass it?

i will be using 110lb cardstock for everything else i print out for pepakura from now on.

is the A4 paper ok for now if i resin it over, or should i start new? the helmet was friggin complicated, and im not sure if i want to do it for a second time with a different paper.


also, how many layers of fiberglass do you guys usually put in there? because i am going to sand the sharp edges to give it a more round profile, but i also want it to survive a drop after ive put in padding and the actual visor and such.

any help would be appreciated, thanks for your time.
 

Master Chief 13

Well-Known Member
i used regular paper for my helmet it worked for expanding foam insulation then paper mache but fiberglassing will turn it into a ball of mush. just remake it with card stock ... i know it sucks remaking parts i've made three bicep pieces so far but its well worth it to get a nice piece heres my helmet after serious paper mache reconstruction still a bit deformed but people can still look at it and say cool theres the chief!! :D
 

Vexona

Well-Known Member
Yea, I agree with MC13, you'll want to do it again on cardstock. Better to spend the time now and have a nice sturdy product you can be proud of. Since you've made a helm before it will go quicker for you the second time around.

I suggest leaving the paper visor in for structural support until you are done fiberglassing the rest of the helm. It'll help it from bending under its own weight and the weight of the resin.

I think 2 layers of fiberglass is adequate for most folks. You can make your first layer of glass vertical (||||||) and reinforce it by overlapping diagonally (//////) on the next. But, overall, it's a matter of preference really :)

-Vex
 

cys920622

Member
Vexona said:
Yea, I agree with MC13, you'll want to do it again on cardstock. Better to spend the time now and have a nice sturdy product you can be proud of. Since you've made a helm before it will go quicker for you the second time around.

I suggest leaving the paper visor in for structural support until you are done fiberglassing the rest of the helm. It'll help it from bending under its own weight and the weight of the resin.

I think 2 layers of fiberglass is adequate for most folks. You can make your first layer of glass vertical (||||||) and reinforce it by overlapping diagonally (//////) on the next. But, overall, it's a matter of preference really :)

-Vex
i couldnt find 110lb cardstock... so i bought 65lb at walmart. is this going to turn into mush if i try to fiberglass it after resining it?
 
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Macattack64

Well-Known Member
No it should be just fine... Just don't resin the inside and the outside at the same time... :\...
 

cys920622

Member
i'm thinking about using a different pepakura set (from what everyone else seems to be using.).

everything but the helmet because i can't find it in there although it shows that it's in there....
http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3582

it's incredibly detailed, but also takes up twice the paper.

maybe i'll wait for his version of the helmet?

otherwise, i have this.

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopi...amp;#entry61521

not sure about using this one, it's all i JPEGs and i noticed some minor differences... how the bill of the helmet (like as in a baseball hat) goes all the way around the helmet, separated completely the whole time.
but it's still a great model.

but the picture of the first one looks better.
 

cys920622

Member
i see. yeah i think normal print out paper is something like 20lb
65 is pretty thick. i don't know if my printer would be able to do 110 without it jamming



ALSO

i used normal glue stick. this isnt gona like melt away when i resin it, is it?
is it mandatory to use hot glue? cuz this thing's holding together pretty well, and hot glue makes a mess
 

yungblaze142k6

New Member
Master_Chief_13 said:
i used regular paper for my helmet it worked for expanding foam insulation then paper mache but fiberglassing will turn it into a ball of mush. just remake it with card stock ... i know it sucks remaking parts i've made three bicep pieces so far but its well worth it to get a nice piece heres my helmet after serious paper mache reconstruction still a bit deformed but people can still look at it and say cool theres the chief!! :D
well i have a quest were do you guys get the plans or what ever to know exatcly what to cut or wat eva for the helmet like im an extreme noob here soo i would like to start sumwere
 
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cys920622

Member
you can probably find your way around, theres stuff stickied everywhere. people won't be too happy with you if you hand them the excuse that you are a noob.
look at me. 7 posts and already done 2 bicep pieces, bought all the fiberglass, resin, primer, etc.
 

yungblaze142k6

New Member
Vexona said:
Yea, I agree with MC13, you'll want to do it again on cardstock. Better to spend the time now and have a nice sturdy product you can be proud of. Since you've made a helm before it will go quicker for you the second time around.

I suggest leaving the paper visor in for structural support until you are done fiberglassing the rest of the helm. It'll help it from bending under its own weight and the weight of the resin.

I think 2 layers of fiberglass is adequate for most folks. You can make your first layer of glass vertical (||||||) and reinforce it by overlapping diagonally (//////) on the next. But, overall, it's a matter of preference really :)

-Vex
well what does fiberglassing do besides just make it harder does it get rid of those boxy lines because i want my helmet to look like the legendary edition helmet
 
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Eihort

New Member
Yes and no. You can sand it down a bit more and make it less boxy, but it'll still have that 3D flat polygon look to it. Your other altrenative is to add some bondo/putty after that. Someone mentioned in another thread some really good putty stuff that is incredibly strong.
 

yungblaze142k6

New Member
Eihort said:
Yes and no. You can sand it down a bit more and make it less boxy, but it'll still have that 3D flat polygon look to it. Your other altrenative is to add some bondo/putty after that. Someone mentioned in another thread some really good putty stuff that is incredibly strong.
well ok than well since ive cuaght sum1 finally hu knows wat there tlkin about what if i wanted to just do it the best way wich is to do it with the resin and al that stuff to make it a real project like i want to know how to make the mold or what to make it out of after that im good just need sum good info to get on the right track cuz everything is still a lil confusing oh and how much would it cost sum1 told me 300 but i hope not
 
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Eihort

New Member
If you want to use the silicone molds and resins, you're looking at $300 at least. And that's assuming you don't mess it up... and you *will*.
 
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