Attempt At An Alternative Way To Pepakura W.i.p.

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Unbadass

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This is the first time i have ever started a topic on any forum in my life, please be kind.



I have read a few posts saying how there parent would not allow them to use the resin. So I have tried to think of a way for people to do this. This is what I came up with.



I have cut out the pepakura pieces leaving a small border of paper around as a buffer. Then I placed it on a scrap piece of card stock, and traced it out. Then I placed them both on wax paper.



(Please don't use the knife again it is not safe anymore for eating purposes)



pepatest1.jpg




Next I used a butter knife and applied a thin layer of gorilla glue to the traced piece.



pepatest2.jpg




Next I placed another piece of wax paper over so the gorilla glue would not stick to the table.



pepatest3.jpg




Next I added a nice weight to hold it down to create a tight bond.



pepatest4.jpg




Next I have pulled the sandwiched piece out to show you the strength compared to a normal piece of pepakura.



pepatest5.jpg




I would have placed more on pennies on it to bend it, but I ran out. The glue hasn't fully cured yet so I will post again when it is. Right now it has the feeling of a thin guitar pick, if that helps any. I will be going to the store today and buy some Elmers fiberglass sheets to see how much more that will alter the pepakura piece. I do not want it to strong, because then I will not be able to give it that little bend during assembly.
 
Hey, this is pretty neat. My only concern would be getting the folding right as you're assembling the pep, but I'm assuming you'll keep adding to this tut as you go along with it to show what you do. Maybe scoring along the folds would help it out, without sacrificing the rigidity that the wax paper is adding.



But yeah, I think this is a great alternative for people that aren't allowed to use the resin yet. Keep it going, I'm curious to try it myself. :)
 
The wax paper does not stick when the little sandwich is taken out from under the weight, it was just to keep it from sticking to the weight and the table. It is basically a smaller version of plywood, but paper style. Yeah I agree with you on the scoring for the folds, I was already thinking the same thing before I had glued it. I will also be keeping the W.I.P. updated and pictures every time something is done, that way people will have a visual reference. Thanks for your words.
 
Holy buckets that's a huge amount of pennies!! Haha. This is a sweet idea on making a piece of cardstock stronger, but like others have said there kinda is a problem with the tabs. Thanks for this tip.
 
Holy creative thinking Batman! Nice work coming up with an inventive solution, hopefully this will help some folks out.
 
Well it would be harder to clamp if it was already built. Gorilla glue also has a bubbly foam expanding thing it would do. So it would be harder to sand.
 
While I do hope this works for you, something tells me it won't. Maybe the fact that your test is with a constant force rather than a short sudden force instead. Build a full piece (a handplate say), drop twenty pennies on it then tell us what happens. That is a far better test for when it's worn.



Also, waterproofing?
 
Wow you have a great point there about the impact force, such as dropping it. And about the waterproofing, i had not even thought of that. Thanks for those two problems, I will start to think of the solutions now instead of when it happens.
 
Major Update:





After the pieces dry, I trimmed the fold lines off. Left is trimmed right is the dried glued for visual reference.



Trimmed.jpg




Next I taped where I cut the fold lines with painters tape, to create a hinge.



Hinge.jpg




This is an example of the piece folded.



foldedhinge.jpg




I forgot to take a picture of the next part. But what I did is print out another set of the same file. Then glued it again with Elmers glue. The Elmers glue caused the the pieces to warp in a U shape, I do not recommend using that glue for this part. It was all I was able to use at this time.



After they dried I trimmed the glue off the sides.



Then I assembled it with hot glue.



Here is the assembled helm after I trimmed some overhanging pieces off the helm to smooth it. So it would look smoother.



Front



forsite.jpg




Top



forsite4.jpg




Right side



forsite2.jpg




Left side



forsite1.jpg




Back



forsite3.jpg






I will be fixing the holes with a filler later.



I wish I had a video so I could show you guys how rigid it turned out.
 
Woah... :eek This caught me off guard majorly. I think this seems incredibly promising. How were you able to do most of the curved pieces on the new smooth Eod helmet? And also, what is the finished piece like? A thin guitar pick you said? I'm detecting large quantities of win in this thread. :cool I'll be watching this one like a hawk.
 
Well I was knocking on it like it would be a door, and it didn't dent. So I hit it harder, no dent. Again harder and no dent. So now that I slapped my helm around a bit. I would say, a hard enough knock on wood to make your knuckles red. LOL
 
This gorilla glue sounds like another good method for those that are younger and their parents won't allow them to use resin and fiberglass.



You should definitely try and make a few scrap pieces and put them through tests to see how it works out. Don't test your already pepped pieces. :eek Make ones that you can discard so you don't worry about destroying your armor. Do different things to it to see how the strength holds up. Try throwing things at it, hitting it and whatever else you can think of to see how it holds up! Document your discoveries! lol
 
I think that if you added a coat of resin to that, it would probably be the same as a glassed helm. You should make up an official tutorial with step by step pics and a video so that we can all try this.
 
If this method is to work, the model itself has to be perfectly unfolded. This EOD was perfectly unfolded beforehand, and it looks outstanding when put together!



But what I am concerned about are the small models. Details would be a B17ch to work with.
 
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