Hey everyone! I've learned so much from everyones post and because of that I've been able to construct an ODST helmet. I've done the pep and fiberglassed it earlier today. Now I'm a little lost. Ive been trying to figure out how everyones been getting the grooves that go along the front and side, some detail that is lost in the pep. I have intentions of putting bondo on the entire outside of the helm, sanding, spot puddy, and wet sanding. Its only this detail that I would really like to have. so if theres a step b4 bondo please fill me in. Thanks for all your help your all amazing.
Detail after fiberglass
- Thread starter amnson
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You can carve details like this in with a rotary tool. You can use cutting wheels for long grooves like the ones you're talking about (without actually cutting through the helmet, of course) and you can try carving accessories as well, particularly for smaller details.
Make sure not to slather the whole outside with putty. You'll have to sand most of it away and be right back where you started, minus a lot of time and some money. Use putty only where necessary.
Personally, I like to use resin with mixed-in fibres and fillers on the inside and add a little more than necessary. That gives me enough material to mostly take away while detailing, with relatively little need to add any putty at all.
Make sure not to slather the whole outside with putty. You'll have to sand most of it away and be right back where you started, minus a lot of time and some money. Use putty only where necessary.
Personally, I like to use resin with mixed-in fibres and fillers on the inside and add a little more than necessary. That gives me enough material to mostly take away while detailing, with relatively little need to add any putty at all.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
You might have enough thickness, but in my opinion, a layer of Bondo where you want to do the detail carving would help. Also, while I love my Dremel and it's usually the go to tool for this kind of work, they can grind away really fast, even at the slowest setting. I would recommend some hand files, specifically a very thin round one, so you have better control of the depth of the groove.
Something like this: Needle File Set
BLACKULA727
Well-Known Member
I lay down rondo first, then glass, then rondo. ALso, I pour rondo in certain areas using dams (so it doesn't run everywhere in the helm) to thicken specific spots that I will be carving into. Spitfire's sugeestion is spot on for detail. I would also suggest purchasing a good woodcarving kit in addition. You can find them at Michaels, Lowes or Jo-Anns. The wood carving kit helps make nice straight cuts. The helmet in my current build is a little heavy, but I plan on molding it anyway, so its just the master. Good luck!
S1l3nt V1p3r
Sr Member
If you want accurate cuts with control of the depth, use the blades on one of these saws. Make sure you wear gloves when using the blade, or else you'll rip up your skin.
I find rotary tools good for cutting, but not for detailing sharp lines. They tend to get wobbly, and you'll some times cut too deep or through the helmet. The blades on these saws are thinner that that of a wheel cutter, so you'll end up with nicer cuts and straighter lines. Used one of those blades on my ODST helmet, turned out great.
I find rotary tools good for cutting, but not for detailing sharp lines. They tend to get wobbly, and you'll some times cut too deep or through the helmet. The blades on these saws are thinner that that of a wheel cutter, so you'll end up with nicer cuts and straighter lines. Used one of those blades on my ODST helmet, turned out great.
BLACKULA727
Well-Known Member
Yes, needle files are a must. My local Home depot has a set for 8 bucks.
sk8almostbay
Member
Make sure if you rondo that you overflow the areas that will be rounded off, such as angles. And you will want to overflow the bill part above the visor also.
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