spn phoenix 92
New Member
Thanks, I'll have to give that a try.
(Finished!) Halo 3 Legendary Helmet Mod
- Thread starter spn phoenix 92
- Start date
- Status
Thanks, I'll have to give that a try.
From what I've been finding, a bit of WD-40 on a cloth might take care of the adhesive residue. There's also a product called "Goo-gone," but it would seem a very small dosage would be advised, as the stuff is pretty strong. For future projects that require taping I'd recommend looking for painter's tape. It holds as well as any other masking tape but won't leave behind residue. I've used it with equal success in painting the ground effects of my car and in painting the signs I've brought to WWE events. Didn't leave any goop on my car, and didn't even mar the paper layer on the foam board I use for signs, and still gives nice, crisp lines.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
UPDATE!
Got my first round of black washing done, it doesn't look too great but it was my first time ever doing it. I was using Rustoleum dark grey automotive primer first, but it started having a weird reaction to the paint and making the blue rub off, so I switched to flat black Krylon Fusion Plastic (the same kind as the blue and yellow used for the helmet) and it worked fine. In an hour I'll lightly recolor the blue and yellow on and see how it looks, when I'm happy with it, then I'll brush on some silver.
This is one of the spots where it wanted to rub off, I'm gonna use some silver here to give it a battle damaged effect.
Once I'm done weathering, I'll put a few layers of flat clear to protect it all, then grind down the uncomfortable spots on the inside and install leds and padding.
Got my first round of black washing done, it doesn't look too great but it was my first time ever doing it. I was using Rustoleum dark grey automotive primer first, but it started having a weird reaction to the paint and making the blue rub off, so I switched to flat black Krylon Fusion Plastic (the same kind as the blue and yellow used for the helmet) and it worked fine. In an hour I'll lightly recolor the blue and yellow on and see how it looks, when I'm happy with it, then I'll brush on some silver.
This is one of the spots where it wanted to rub off, I'm gonna use some silver here to give it a battle damaged effect.
Once I'm done weathering, I'll put a few layers of flat clear to protect it all, then grind down the uncomfortable spots on the inside and install leds and padding.
Looking really good! The wash was a great first try, but looks a little ......wiped off? Did you consider using watered down acrylic craft paint for your wash instead of spray paint? Works great for weathering minis and it's worked great for my costuming so far Keep up the great work bro!
Keep up the great work bro!spn phoenix 92
New Member
Looking really good! The wash was a great first try, but looks a little ......wiped off? Did you consider using watered down acrylic craft paint for your wash instead of spray paint? Works great for weathering minis and it's worked great for my costuming so far
What's your technique for applying the paint? Sounds like it would work alot better.
Mstruvmgc
Sr Member
Hey try this thread page 15 about half way down or so for blackwash. Hope this helps a little. http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/32617-WHS-Red-vs.-Blue-build-(Very-Pic-Heavy)
spn phoenix 92
New Member
Thank you very much, that helped me understand alot better.
Mstruvmgc
Sr Member
Thank you very much, that helped me understand alot better.
No prob
Lol oops my bad
Skullptura
Member
You sir are quite good at painting. Keep it up!
spn phoenix 92
New Member
It's been a busy week, but I managed to get alot done to the helmet.
First thing was I completely repainted the entire helmet, cause I just wasn't happy with the way I black washed it. After I had let both colors dry for most of the week, I decided to use the method that Andysx91 & Mstruvmgc pointed out to me (thanks alot guys! ) and got to work. I really think it's an improvment over the last. The camera picked up the colors terribly, it's a million times better in person.
After I let that dry, I added a little more black detail with a brush and then grabbed my silver spray paint and did the battle damage. This was my first time doing this method, and I think it turned out pretty great. I know I overdid the silver and scratches, but I did that purposely for a reason that I'll explain in a later post.
Next steps are to add some minor details and a symbol before I add a few coats of flat clear coating, and create a visor using Redshirt's method. Afterwards is grinding down notches inside and adding electronics and padding, then I'll be done! :cool
First thing was I completely repainted the entire helmet, cause I just wasn't happy with the way I black washed it. After I had let both colors dry for most of the week, I decided to use the method that Andysx91 & Mstruvmgc pointed out to me (thanks alot guys!
) and got to work. I really think it's an improvment over the last. The camera picked up the colors terribly, it's a million times better in person.After I let that dry, I added a little more black detail with a brush and then grabbed my silver spray paint and did the battle damage. This was my first time doing this method, and I think it turned out pretty great. I know I overdid the silver and scratches, but I did that purposely for a reason that I'll explain in a later post.
Next steps are to add some minor details and a symbol before I add a few coats of flat clear coating, and create a visor using Redshirt's method. Afterwards is grinding down notches inside and adding electronics and padding, then I'll be done! :cool
PlayByMyOwnRule
Active Member
Thats you first try with weathering? WOW! I love it!
Skullptura
Member
That's pretty good detailing.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
Thanks everyone
I'm trying to decide how I'm gonna add the symbol to the helmet, and I'm thinking I might make it my first project with my airbrush. Anyone have any suggestions on how to do it?
twistedxknights
Jr Member
you weathering looks good a bit heavy but good.. the best way I feel to do the logo to match the weathering would be to stencil it on with a natural sea sponge sponge and do some weathering to it as well..
I've been toying with ideas on how to put emblems on my armor when it gets to that point. One method I'm thinking of would be a sort of stencil method. For the sake of example I'll use the emblem I've chosen in H3, ODST, and Reach: the howling wolf (white wolf, black background) with the octogon border (blue).
Step 1:Find a high enough resolution image to be able to print out a template scaled to the size you want the emblem to be on the armor.
Step 2: There are three colors, so we'd print out three copies of the image (if they'll all fit on one sheet of paper, all the better). Even though this might work if printed on cardstock I'd suggest just printing it out on regular paper and then gluing it to the unprinted side of a thin cardboard box (for example, a ceral box, or the 12-24 pack soda boxes).
Step 3: Carefully cut out the "negative space" in each template with an xacto or razor blade, being very careful not to knick the edges too much. What I mean by negative space is the area that will be filled with paint. For the example I'm using, one template would be cut out completely to give us the octogon shape for the blue layer. On the second template, cut out the circle and wolf, leaving the octogon in place so you have a circle for the black layer. And on the third template, just cut out the wolf so you have a shape for the white layer.
Step 4: You'll want to have a reference point on the armor to mark the center of the emblem to help with lining up the subsequent layers. Tape down the first template where you want the emblem to be, making sure that it is pressed as tightly as possible against the armor to keep the edges as smooth and crisp as possible. Be sure to mask the surrounding area as well to prevent overspray. For this example, you would then lay down a light coat of blue paint. You'll want to use very light coats and let them dry before adding another here to keep it from running or dripping, which would lead to a sloppy paint job. This will take patience, slowly adding one coat at a time until you have the desired coverage.
Step 5: Once the first layer of color is completely dry, carefully remove the first stencil and line up the second. You're going to repeat the same process of taping it down, masking the surrounding area, and slowly building up the next coat of paint. You'll want to check and check again to make sure you have the template lined up and centered, unless you want to run the risk of having to either start over, or be left with a lop-sided graphic.
Step 6: Repeat the process again with the third and final layer. The wolf head emblem I'm using for the example has an eye spot, which would mean either having to make a fourth template with just the eye cut out, or to save time put a small piece of masking tape on the armor, line up the template, trace where it meets the tape for reference, and then draw in the eye. Using the xacto/razor blade, very carefully (and lightly) trace around the outline of the eye. You don't want to press too hard your you'll cut into the paint you just put down. Once you've seperated the eye, carefully remove the rest of the tape, leaving just the eye spot behind, then put the template in place. Once you're done painting the final layer and it has dried, slowly peel off the eye tape.
I realize I sometimes have a roundabout way of talking, so if it would help to have a visual tutorial just let me know and I'll whip something up.
How well this method works depends on the complexity of the symbol you want to put on the helmet. If there are a lot of intricate shapes, details, or multiple colors, a better method might be to print it out as a decal if you have access to a printer capable of doing so. If there's a Staples or other copy/print center nearby, you might be able to get them to do it for you. If you're really lucky you might have a custom print shop in the area where you could get a more weather-worthy decal printed up so you don't have to worry about temperatures or moisture causing it to peel off. Although, if you put the decal on before you do the clear coat, that might seal it in enough to keep it from peeling.
Step 1:Find a high enough resolution image to be able to print out a template scaled to the size you want the emblem to be on the armor.
Step 2: There are three colors, so we'd print out three copies of the image (if they'll all fit on one sheet of paper, all the better). Even though this might work if printed on cardstock I'd suggest just printing it out on regular paper and then gluing it to the unprinted side of a thin cardboard box (for example, a ceral box, or the 12-24 pack soda boxes).
Step 3: Carefully cut out the "negative space" in each template with an xacto or razor blade, being very careful not to knick the edges too much. What I mean by negative space is the area that will be filled with paint. For the example I'm using, one template would be cut out completely to give us the octogon shape for the blue layer. On the second template, cut out the circle and wolf, leaving the octogon in place so you have a circle for the black layer. And on the third template, just cut out the wolf so you have a shape for the white layer.
Step 4: You'll want to have a reference point on the armor to mark the center of the emblem to help with lining up the subsequent layers. Tape down the first template where you want the emblem to be, making sure that it is pressed as tightly as possible against the armor to keep the edges as smooth and crisp as possible. Be sure to mask the surrounding area as well to prevent overspray. For this example, you would then lay down a light coat of blue paint. You'll want to use very light coats and let them dry before adding another here to keep it from running or dripping, which would lead to a sloppy paint job. This will take patience, slowly adding one coat at a time until you have the desired coverage.
Step 5: Once the first layer of color is completely dry, carefully remove the first stencil and line up the second. You're going to repeat the same process of taping it down, masking the surrounding area, and slowly building up the next coat of paint. You'll want to check and check again to make sure you have the template lined up and centered, unless you want to run the risk of having to either start over, or be left with a lop-sided graphic.
Step 6: Repeat the process again with the third and final layer. The wolf head emblem I'm using for the example has an eye spot, which would mean either having to make a fourth template with just the eye cut out, or to save time put a small piece of masking tape on the armor, line up the template, trace where it meets the tape for reference, and then draw in the eye. Using the xacto/razor blade, very carefully (and lightly) trace around the outline of the eye. You don't want to press too hard your you'll cut into the paint you just put down. Once you've seperated the eye, carefully remove the rest of the tape, leaving just the eye spot behind, then put the template in place. Once you're done painting the final layer and it has dried, slowly peel off the eye tape.
I realize I sometimes have a roundabout way of talking, so if it would help to have a visual tutorial just let me know and I'll whip something up.
How well this method works depends on the complexity of the symbol you want to put on the helmet. If there are a lot of intricate shapes, details, or multiple colors, a better method might be to print it out as a decal if you have access to a printer capable of doing so. If there's a Staples or other copy/print center nearby, you might be able to get them to do it for you. If you're really lucky you might have a custom print shop in the area where you could get a more weather-worthy decal printed up so you don't have to worry about temperatures or moisture causing it to peel off. Although, if you put the decal on before you do the clear coat, that might seal it in enough to keep it from peeling.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
I honestly like this second attempt at the blackwash you did better than the first one. The first one was not bad, but this is better.
Also i think the amount of silver you used for the scratches and whatnot look really good on the helmet
Keep up the good work
Thanks guys, constructive criticism helps push me to work harder and do better each time
.Now, time for an update!
Thanks to twistedxknights and zaff, I used both combined ways to paint an emblem to add one to the helmet, but I decided to alter slightly to better match the look of a spartan who added the symbol himself for a little personal touch, so i used a sponge brush and painted heavy coats and did a stabbing+smearing movement while painting to make it uneven, instead of the perfect sprayed stencil look. After it dries, I will use a matte clear for the whole thing. :cool
- Status
