Glue

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Bigwillie5

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i want to start a model, i already have it printed out and i want to start cutting it out, but im just wondering which glue is the best? can i stick to regular elmers glue or should i be using something else?
 
Bigwillie5 said:
i want to start a model, i already have it printed out and i want to start cutting it out, but im just wondering which glue is the best? can i stick to regular elmers glue or should i be using something else?





hello, DONT USE WHITE GLUE.

there have been pictures of complete failures when members used it. It takes forever to dry and is just downright cruel.

I use hot glue.

but you can also use super glue.

any more questions, feel free to ask :3
 
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I use either tackey or hot glue. BTW: use the search button. There's been several of these threads recently
 
ok my bad thank you for the info. another question (sry) but seeing as i will be pepping a hollow weapon (carbine to be exact) would the integrity be compromised?
 
Bigwillie5 said:
ok my bad thank you for the info. another question (sry) but seeing as i will be pepping a hollow weapon (carbine to be exact) would the integrity be compromised?





well, that's the thing.

Weapons is something people do last and learn last because it is pretty tough to get used to.

people just resin the piece itself once or twice and then filling it with expanding foam.
 
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Hello All,

I have been using the normal Elmer's school glue for all my peps, Go slow only do 2-3 tabs at a time, just dab a little on your finger and put on tab, not to think or it will take awhile to dry.



I find I can do 3 tabs then skip 2 or 3 and glue 3 more. Then go back and fill in the tabs. I usually put on around 10 pieces, than set it aside and work on a different one for about 30-45 minutes to let the glue harden. Then put on 10 more and let dry overnight.



Cheers,

Stillgar
 
Bigwillie5 said:
wouldnt the expanding foam cause it to burst or something if it werent resined properly?





exactly, or even warp the weapon itself even more.

It's not easy :p

but don't let me discourage you!

There are tutorials on all of your questions on the threads.

Best of Luck!
 
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You should really use hot glue or rubber cement. Resin disintegrates most adhesives.



You can fill the weapon with foam once you're done resining the outside, or you could always fill the interior with hot glue.
 
Yep. Basically. Hot glue is great to add support to things like that because it's cheap, it cures fast (about 30 seconds), and it's non toxic. As long as there's a coat of resin on the outside it'll hold its shape and hot glue will give the weapon a pretty solid/weighty feel (I haven't done armor with hot glue but I used to do some similar things to add support to art project structures in school).



The beauty of filling a weapon with glue too is that you don't have to use a brush or anything (like you would have to if you were doing armor). Just melt the glue and pour it in.



Just be sure not to burn yourself.
 
sounds good to me, only problem is that im not planning on using resin, at least a toxic one. do you know of any non toxic methods, aside from aqua resin?
 
The hot glue method works. I have made Pepeakura weapons and they are hard and are very weak I sugesst a cardboard one.
 
If you can't get resin or aqua resin then hardening the surface may prove difficult.



The only solution that comes to mind (I've used this method on some other non-costuming projects) is papier mache. If you're going to go that route though you're going to want to use very thin strips so that the thickness of the material doesn't deform the shape of your weapon. Once the papier mache dries you should be able to paint/varnish it like anything else. It won't be quite as strong/hard as fiberglassed armor though.



Another interior hardening method (if you want something stronger/more expensive than hot glue) is to fill the weapon with cast plastic. See the link for details:

 
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well i have this spray can labeled 'gloss' and if i were to layer the paper with it it might be a little hard but not too much, ill try experimenting with that but i see no problem with paper mache
 
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