Helmet Paintball Bullet Test:awareness Video

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i dont know why but somewhere in my head im thinking their isnt many layers of fiberglass and way too much bondo on that helmet to make an actual showcase of why not to play paintball in armor.
 
so that helmet wasnt designed to take that i only do one layer but i thought it would showcase what happened to a normal peped helmet if shot with a paintball



it has one layer not every one puts 5 layers of fiber glass in

i am also going to make a testing box so i dont waste helmets so if you have any techniques you want me to try post them here and i'\ll start showing what happens
 
for strong helmets that wont break no mater what use this formula to apply the fiberglass.



layer one have the grain. the dominate lines go from front to back. all fiberglass should also be in small cut peices to easily manage.



layer 2 should be opisite. the grain should be moving in a left ear to right ear type of placement. so the fiber glass cris crosses itself and you are covering up all layer one spaces you may have missed or have the joints. (joints are as in where the fiber glass peices arent connected together but the areas that were cut.)



layer 3 and 4. well you can either continue in the motion you are doing with one and two or go for a bit stronger. now rather than a straight line side to side or fron to back now your going to do diagional. so from left cheek to right behind the right ear. and oposite for layer 4.



layer five should be again front to back if you want. this layer is optional.



as for bondo detailing. the helmet you shot has way to much bondo on it. you should have a thin layer what you have looks like a thick layer. so thin layer maybe 2 or 3 paper widths thick or 1 milimeter. 0.039370 an inch. (yes standard paper not cardstock)



and then try shooting it. the bondo may crack but it will not fall under the pressure of a paintball gun. though it might crack the bondo but not as severely as your helmet.



picture examples of how to fiberglass.
 
ok look guys i had damage to the front before i tested it you want me to to shot the back its better the the front all i wanted to do was show what happened not have my skills questioned i had issues pepping that helmet that transferred to a lot of bondo work but if you want i'll shoot the back that doesn't have damage and a thinner layer of bondo and some it wasn't bondo it was a texture i tried and it goes on think
 
Project003 said:
it's not that I don't doubt you, but have you tried molded armor?



Molded armor is usually made from Smoothcast 300 and is actually cast alot thinner than Bondo/Fiberglass. You can sit on a buttplate and it will shatter depending on how thick you cast it (seen it happen). You end up at the visor situation again, when it fails it's going to turn that piece of armor into a shrapnel grenade into your chest/face or other body part.



Long story short, it's like resining without an organic respirator on, if you want to gamble with your life.. go nuts, just don't say we didn't tell you so :).



Cheers,

Kensai
 
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CommanderFluffy said:
for strong helmets that wont break no mater what use this formula to apply the fiberglass.



layer one have the grain. the dominate lines go from front to back. all fiberglass should also be in small cut peices to easily manage.



layer 2 should be opisite. the grain should be moving in a left ear to right ear type of placement. so the fiber glass cris crosses itself and you are covering up all layer one spaces you may have missed or have the joints. (joints are as in where the fiber glass peices arent connected together but the areas that were cut.)



layer 3 and 4. well you can either continue in the motion you are doing with one and two or go for a bit stronger. now rather than a straight line side to side or fron to back now your going to do diagional. so from left cheek to right behind the right ear. and oposite for layer 4.



layer five should be again front to back if you want. this layer is optional.



as for bondo detailing. the helmet you shot has way to much bondo on it. you should have a thin layer what you have looks like a thick layer. so thin layer maybe 2 or 3 paper widths thick or 1 milimeter. 0.039370 an inch. (yes standard paper not cardstock)



and then try shooting it. the bondo may crack but it will not fall under the pressure of a paintball gun. though it might crack the bondo but not as severely as your helmet.



picture examples of how to fiberglass.



I think you may be missing the biggest point. Skin and your head can easily take hits from a paintball. But there is one VERY squishy part that cannot. Your eyes. Motorcycle visors secured by hot glue/velcro/whatever will NOT hold up to paintballs. After a hit or two, they will come out and leave easy access to your eyes. If they aren't already shattered. Especially since they have been weakened through cutting and bending to get into the helmet in the first place.



No matter how many layers of fiberglass you put on your helmet, playing paintball in it is still a VERY bad idea.



And DF, you showcased what would happen very well. Most places will limit your speed to around 285 fps. If you were shooting 240, imagine what would happen to a "strong" helmet at 285.
 
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after a few hours of searching i found a video showing what happens when you use other the paintball certified goggles

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgAjjtwjHqM[/media]
 
those werent really paintball certified. except the one. anyways for goggle protection you need to fix a small visor range hyabusa or recon or eod and put in the painball certified lens. no hot glue wont hold them but what will. bolts super glue and custom fitting. no the whole face mask wont fit but the lens will.



oh and remember somethings like a paintball suit need extra support and care to make it work and function smoothly.
 
You wanna make it work? First, dissembark the short bus... build your helm around a paintball mask... get back on the short bus. Maybe the driver of said short bus will be nice enough to loosen your straps enough to paintball in.



Isn't the game cool enough? Safety First, or medical bills last.
 
Das Brutus said:
You wanna make it work? First, dissembark the short bus... build your helm around a paintball mask... get back on the short bus. Maybe the driver of said short bus will be nice enough to loosen your straps enough to paintball in.



Isn't the game cool enough? Safety First, or medical bills last.



Well said Brutus. i dont know why this is such an issue.



the way i see it is. in armor you cant move as well (even in flexit foam) and you cant see as well in most of the halo style helmets. so if you do play in a spartan suit your slow bigger target that cant move as fast or see as well. hemm let me see. get shot alot and miss alot or... win a game or two. man thats a difficult choice. wait no its not. i think i will try to win a game by not beeing the bigger slower more noticeable target that cant hit anything.



Savvy
 
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From what I've seen, playing in armor is only fun if everybody is wearing it (see the old NAS paintball vids) or if the Armored dude is invincible and the game is objective decided (They call it the Terminator suit in our local courses).



But whatever. We need to get some vids up of people shooting props with hard calibers. That's entertainment.
 
Sigma-LS said:
But whatever. We need to get some vids up of people shooting props with hard calibers. That's entertainment.

Agreed!

So, lets get some donations of damaged, incomplete, or de-activated (replaced or obsolete) pieces and have a good ol' fashioned "Shoot 'em up" to better demonstrate the dangers of wearing non safety rated armor. No people in them... mannequins in the armor... like a Military Range style training vid...
 
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im willing to do my part im going to be makign some other videos showing different hardening methods and a control i should have the control and 1st test sample up later today
 
Umm.... I used to work at a paintball field. 230fps is way too low. 275-300fps is standard regulations. At tournaments, you fire three shots past a chrono. The total fps of the three cannot exceed 900fps.
 
Haven923 said:
Umm.... I used to work at a paintball field. 230fps is way too low. 275-300fps is standard regulations. At tournaments, you fire three shots past a chrono. The total fps of the three cannot exceed 900fps.

i thought so but were i used to play did not allow the gun to go over 250 so i have it still at that speed i haven't played in a long time so i have no idea what my guns speed is now we dont have a field around here and i cant find a chrono ether

if i could find some one near me who had one id test it and let you guys know what the guns speed is atm but for now im saying its around 240 to 250
 
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This is a good representation of what can happen when you do stuff without testing it. It is sad to see the damage to the helmet before it got to it's finale. As for Nightmare Armour... who here is really willing to go spend 2 to 10 thousand dollars just for a battle proof suit when they can make their own armour for about 100 dollars? There is just one thing I would like to know, did you test the resin-bonded armour from more than 10 feet (3 metres)? I was just wondering, because in most cases you won't be closer than 10 feet while you are playing.



Just some thoughts... :)
 
I've tested vaccuform castings of Aliens colonial Marine armor against hot (330+ FPS) airsoft guns,

and aside from some minor dimpling you don't have any kind of armor failure... unless you fire around 300

rounds at point blank range (1" from target). Then the combined impact actually heats the plastic and that's

what causes a failure.



So, in a nutshell, if it were decent thickness vaccuformed Spartan/ODST armor, I'd wear it in a game.

Bondo/resin? No. And the helmet would need some serious reenforcing before I would even attempt such a thing.



But that's just me.
 
No legitimate commercial paintball field will let you on the field wearing anything less than a paintball mask that is certified as such. This includes protection for the eyes, face, and over the ears. All of these areas are vulnerable to damage (ie. squishy) The following excerpt is from an article on the safety of paintball was developed by the American Academy of Ophthalmology's Eye Safety & Sports Ophthalmology Committee.



Although the game's safety rules have always mandated the use of goggles, the rules were not always strictly enforced. The goggles used in the sport prior to 1987, and even beyond that year for a short period, were for the most part industrial safety goggles, shooting glasses, or motorcycle, ski, or dust goggles. Yet no goggles had been tested for effectiveness in paintball, and industrial goggles bear the warning that they are not designed for sports use.



Players wearing these goggles were injured because:



lens retention was inadequate and allowed the entire goggle lens to be knocked into the eye

entire goggle was inadequately retained on the head, allowing a paintball impact to the unprotected eye

goggle sealed poorly around the eyes, allowing large fragments of shell from a paintball that impacted near the goggle to find a pathway into the eye

goggle was improperly modified by enlarging the air vents, against factory instructions, allowing shell fragments to get into the eye through the enlarged air vents

some other pathway into the eye occurred, other than through the lens proper



By 1987, the first paintball-specific goggles were being marketed by JT Racing (JT USA today).

In 1994, The American Society for Testing and Materials Eye Safety Subcommittee (http://www.ia-usa.org/k0043.htm) established a task force to write standard specifications for paintball eye-protection devices. The standard, ASTM F1776, was published in 1997.



Brutus said it right: build your stuff around a pair of paintball specific goggles. On the topic of molded armor, it really depends on what material was used to cast it, how thick the casting is, whether there is any reinforcement in the material (fiberglass, etc) and factors like temperature and angle of impact. If you build armor to play paintball in (for looks, you don't really need body armor for paintball) you should expect to have to make regular repairs to the armor as it gets abused on the field.
 
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