Project003 said:it's not that I don't doubt you, but have you tried molded armor?
CommanderFluffy said:for strong helmets that wont break no mater what use this formula to apply the fiberglass.
layer one have the grain. the dominate lines go from front to back. all fiberglass should also be in small cut peices to easily manage.
layer 2 should be opisite. the grain should be moving in a left ear to right ear type of placement. so the fiber glass cris crosses itself and you are covering up all layer one spaces you may have missed or have the joints. (joints are as in where the fiber glass peices arent connected together but the areas that were cut.)
layer 3 and 4. well you can either continue in the motion you are doing with one and two or go for a bit stronger. now rather than a straight line side to side or fron to back now your going to do diagional. so from left cheek to right behind the right ear. and oposite for layer 4.
layer five should be again front to back if you want. this layer is optional.
as for bondo detailing. the helmet you shot has way to much bondo on it. you should have a thin layer what you have looks like a thick layer. so thin layer maybe 2 or 3 paper widths thick or 1 milimeter. 0.039370 an inch. (yes standard paper not cardstock)
and then try shooting it. the bondo may crack but it will not fall under the pressure of a paintball gun. though it might crack the bondo but not as severely as your helmet.
picture examples of how to fiberglass.
Das Brutus said:You wanna make it work? First, dissembark the short bus... build your helm around a paintball mask... get back on the short bus. Maybe the driver of said short bus will be nice enough to loosen your straps enough to paintball in.
Isn't the game cool enough? Safety First, or medical bills last.
Sigma-LS said:But whatever. We need to get some vids up of people shooting props with hard calibers. That's entertainment.
Haven923 said:Umm.... I used to work at a paintball field. 230fps is way too low. 275-300fps is standard regulations. At tournaments, you fire three shots past a chrono. The total fps of the three cannot exceed 900fps.
Although the game's safety rules have always mandated the use of goggles, the rules were not always strictly enforced. The goggles used in the sport prior to 1987, and even beyond that year for a short period, were for the most part industrial safety goggles, shooting glasses, or motorcycle, ski, or dust goggles. Yet no goggles had been tested for effectiveness in paintball, and industrial goggles bear the warning that they are not designed for sports use.
Players wearing these goggles were injured because:
lens retention was inadequate and allowed the entire goggle lens to be knocked into the eye
entire goggle was inadequately retained on the head, allowing a paintball impact to the unprotected eye
goggle sealed poorly around the eyes, allowing large fragments of shell from a paintball that impacted near the goggle to find a pathway into the eye
goggle was improperly modified by enlarging the air vents, against factory instructions, allowing shell fragments to get into the eye through the enlarged air vents
some other pathway into the eye occurred, other than through the lens proper
By 1987, the first paintball-specific goggles were being marketed by JT Racing (JT USA today).
In 1994, The American Society for Testing and Materials Eye Safety Subcommittee (http://www.ia-usa.org/k0043.htm) established a task force to write standard specifications for paintball eye-protection devices. The standard, ASTM F1776, was published in 1997.