"Help!" for: Electronics

[Crimmson]

@ thatdecade

i am trying to figure out how to create a wireless led controller with a compact battery pack that is rechargeable and i can plug in through a small opening on the bottom or side of the helmet. thank you for the wiring schematic i always wanted to know how to snyc leds to music. i will be using it on other projects. like adding leds to my nephews head phones, they are the really big ones that cover his whole side of his head.

 

[Spartan 010]

Cutting foam. Not plastic. I saw somewhere that one soldering iron came with an attachment for cutting rope, like a hot knife. It isn't a feature I need, I just thought it would be an extra thing that I might use once a year.

Thanks for showing me what you use.

Yeah I've looked into this before. I think you need a specific type of soldering iron/knife. I've only seen it done with Arc Welding.

If you plan on doing this, do it IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA or OUTSIDE. The fumes are very toxic!
______________________________________________________________________________________

Thanks a TON thatdecade for the information! I can't believe you have to use a high power source! And a tether?? LAME!!!!

I've got a question myself. Ever heard of a Sonic Screwdriver? It is blasphemous if you haven't! =P

The Sonic Screwdriver. A unique tool used by The Doctor, from Doctor Who. It is used to unlock/lock things, scan for stuff, turn things on and off, among other things.

Well I bought The 11th Doctor's Sonic Screwdriver from Amazon. I got this crazy idea to...well... turn things on and off. Regretfully, there is NOT very much room inside my Sonic so I cannot put a ton of awesome stuff inside. I've seen this done with the 10th version of it, but the 11th was extremely different.

"Get to the point man!!!"

OK OK... The TV-B-Gone! It turns ON and OFF 250 different brands of TVs. Here is what it is supposed to look like...
http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa428/TheFoamMaster/?action=view&current=tv-b-gone.jpg

I dont have enough room to put all of the component inside so Im only going to use 1 IR LED. Um... if you have to time, just check this page out.
http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25262&p=130939#p130939

It gives complete detail of what I'm doing. If you dont have time, here are a few more images to give you an idea.
This is the board with the parts I "shouldnt" need. Still debating with the members on adafruit.
http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa428/TheFoamMaster/?action=view&current=tvbgone.jpg
This is how I "think" it should go together without the board. It's messy but there's no way around it
http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa428/TheFoamMaster/?action=view&current=TV-B-Gone_Sonic.jpg

The url image thing isnt working so I just copied and pasted the url.

Basically, I only have room for 1 IR LED, that "should" mean I only need 1 Transistor. In this case, the Transistor controls the current flow to the LED b/c the micro controller cant handle it on it's own.

As for the resistors, I think only 2 are needed.

Here are 2 more links for more info.
https://github.com/adafruit/TV-B-Gone-kit/raw/master/pcb/tvbgone3sch.png (Schematic)

See the Capacitors? 100uf and 0.1uf? That's my problem (if what I drew is correct.) I dont know where they go. The schematic gives no detail whatsoever concerning the exact placement of the Capacitors.
The next best thing I could give you is this http://www.ladyada.net/make/tvbgone/solder.html

Thank you VERY much!

 

[thatdecade]

Crimmson, I am glad you found it helpful.


Spartan-010, I'm not sure how effective your tvbgone will be with only 1 LED. The extra LEDs make it easier to aim and give it a wider range of tv's to control.

I did look at your pictures, C1 and C2 are the coupling capacitors. Install them across the + - batttery, physically close to the chip. Without that capacitor(s) the chip won't even turn on.

Wiring schematic
https://github.com/adafruit/TV-B-Gone-kit/blob/master/pcb/tvbgone3sch.png

You can get more help on your modified tv-b-gone project here... probably
http://forums.adafruit.com/viewforum.php?f=23&sid=57c4f80503a4b910c3872ef1bfaf9fcd

 

[Spartan 010]

Thanks again man, I really appreciate it! I don't know how in the world I missed that thread.. I looked everywhere for it... I "thought."

 

[Spartan 010]

Ok.... is it supposed to go like this?
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770539681442&l=35f5153d0d
or this
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770540001450&l=445b9a9fc4 (Probably not)
and if I still dont have it right...Here's a sort of template. IF you have the time,
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770568842171&l=004c88349a

 

[thatdecade]

Put both capacitors across the battery, put them in parallel. You really only need one, but you get slightly better performance with both.

 

[Toymakerkarl]

I found 62mm 9V DC cooling fans at www.allelectronics.com in Van Nuys, California USA for $1.25 each, or $1.00 each if you order 5 or more. Catalog number CF-361. The shipping for 10, which is what I ordered, cost $7.00. With a 9 volt DC battery, connected to a 9 volt DC fan, other than a switch and the battery box, I don't need a resistor of any kind, do I ?

 

[thatdecade]

I like allelectronics.com they have good prices and selection. That is an ok find. I generally stay away from 9V fans because they use 9V batteries (dies faster than AA or AAA).

The specifications on that 2.5 inch fan say 230 mA, a standard 9V battery is rated at 570 mAh. 570/230 = ~2 hours of battery life.

That should work ok for anyone, but compare that to (259-1345-ND) my preferred 5V 2 inch fan which runs at 160 mA, paired with AAA batteries rated at 1000 mAh, has ~6 hours of battery life.

 

[agordon117]

Go for lithium ion protected rechargable batteries anywhere you can. 3.7v each and they come in any size from 1/2 AAAA to C size. i'm gonna keep my suit at 7.4 v and use rechargable 14500s, AA sized. my speaker setup might need more, but it's gonna get bigger batteries anyway. lighthound.com has a great selection.

If you have the space for them, 18650 sized batteries last forever. they are 4/3 A if i remember correctly. 18mm wide by 65 mm long.

I build custom lightsabers for my main hobby, so this stuff is second nature to me.

 

[thatdecade]

Are there any circuits in your lightsabers? I imagine you would have to step down that 7.4 voltage.

This is the only 14500 I found on the lighthound site.
http://www.lighthound.com/AW-14500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_96.html

Seems expensive, $10 per battery for only 450mAh, you get more bang from an alkaline... The lightsaber folks seem to like the TrustFire 3.7V 900mAh 14500 battery, cheaper too.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/T...900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx

The best setup I've seen in a lightsaber was from ultrasabers. Had two 3.7V 900mAh cells in parallel, providing 3.7V to the sound circuit and constant current buck. Combined like that, lasts longer than the same volume of alkaline.

 

[agordon117]

The cells ultra uses are really worse than the ones you saw. voltage is steped down by the soundboard i use. Trustfire or ultrafire batteries are way below their rated capacity while the AW brand are exactly what they say they are. ultra also builds crappy sabers with ideas that he stole from other people and passed off as his own, then when called on it quickly hushed it up so that hjs customers would never learn the truth. my sabers use 18650s, or 18500s if i am really pressed for space.

The AW batteries are actually 750ma in the 14500 size, not 450(which is what the trustfires actually are).

 

[thatdecade]

Yeah, you're right.

I made a mistake in my post, was 750mAh, not 450. I still think I can beat $10 per battery.

 

[agordon117]

if you go wit a crappier brand that is less than 750 mAh, sure. it wikl say 900, but won't really be that hig. plus, if you go another route besides li-ion, you lose the 3.7v per cell.

 

[thatdecade]

If you want to go for li-on, I won't stop you, but I can't recommend it to most people for every situation.

Compared to alkaline and other rechargeables, li-on batteries are complicated and expensive for a trade-off of space savings (higher density). Costume suit lighting is rarely under such strict space restrictions that a protected li-on battery would be needed.

Lightsabers are a great example where protected li-on batteries are a perfect decision. No other battery type could fit into the small dimensions of the lightsaber hilt and deliver a better performance / lifespan.

 

[Revenant1988]

First, this thread has been a huge help with getting me started to wire my suit. I'm almost ready to start buying supplies but I want to make sure I'm doing this right so if anyone could comment on my set ups below I would very much appreciate it.

Wiring led's throughout the suit

The led's I want to use are Ultra Violet, there are also regular violet but I'm not sure if they will look as good. Would anyone prefer one over the other and could you tell me why you do?

I'll probably be buying them from here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-led-30-degree-viewing-angle-380-nm-20mw/631/

I think I have the info plugged in right, but I'm not 100% sure. Here is what I want to do with them:


If correct, these would be spaced out individually (one in each shoulder, thigh, chest, etc)



Wiring the helmet
For the helmet, I saw some really cool mini spotlights at a convention in my hometown. I think they would work perfectly for my helmet but I'm not sure what to do about the wiring on them. They are meant to use a 12v power supply but obviously I want to use something smaller and more mobile. Here is the product I am looking at:

http://shop.minispotlight.com/product.sc?productId=55&categoryId=3

I'm not sure if I have the resistors right for these at all, or if a 9v battery will be enough I don't see why they wouldn't, because they are just two normal led's but in a metal tube so I look to the experts here for an opinion. Here is how I want to set them up:



I'm really worried about accidentally frying them. The toggle switch is pretty basic, just a simple on/off with a pos, ground, and accessory "tab". I think I have them set correctly but again I'm not sure.

If anyone has any thoughts I would really like to hear them!! Thank you for looking

 

[thatdecade]

In general, UV LEDs are very dim, much too dim to provide lighting. If you want a UV glow, use blue LEDs. Blue LEDs contain UV light and will fluoresce UV reactive colors, but provide bright lighting.

If the spot lights run on 12V, they should at least light up with 9V. No resistor added, there is likely already a resistor in the tube. Just connect them to 9V and see what happens. If they are too dim, you can switch to a 12V battery pack, or crack open the tube to swap out the resistor. Two of these small 6V batteries can run your LED for a long time, but don't try connecting anything else, just a few LEDs: http://amzn.com/B0035H57D0

For helmet lights, $13 each sounds a bit expensive, or are you using just one?

 

[Revenant1988]

In general, UV LEDs are very dim, much too dim to provide lighting. If you want a UV glow, use blue LEDs. Blue LEDs contain UV light and will fluoresce UV reactive colors, but provide bright lighting.

I'm trying to pick something a little different than what you might normally see on the 405th. My main reason for looking at UV leds is not so much to produce light on say a well lit convention floor but in a dark convention, contests, bar, night etc. In the dark, they look pretty good but you are right, I am just a tad concerned about the glow. I want it to be noticeable to someone near me, but I'm also not looking to be as bright as say LongShotX's MK6.

There are violet ones that are a little brighter... what is your opinion on those?

If the spot lights run on 12V, they should at least light up with 9V. No resistor added, there is likely already a resistor in the tube. Just connect them to 9V and see what happens. If they are too dim, you can switch to a 12V battery pack, or crack open the tube to swap out the resistor. Two of these small 6V batteries can run your LED for a long time, but don't try connecting anything else, just a few LEDs: http://amzn.com/B0035H57D0

For helmet lights, $13 each sounds a bit expensive, or are you using just one?

Oh cool! What do you suppose the life would be on those batteries with a couple of LEDs on each?

The helmet lights are just a bit expensive for what I'm doing. Long story, this company is based somewhere in Wisconsin and they come down every year to a haunted house convention in Columbus. Their website sucks, they have a lot more at conventions then they do on the site so maybe its just that they need to remodel it. Anyway, the spotlights they have are very powerful in most colors. The aluminum tube they come in is very sturdy and it focuses the light just like, well, a spotlight. For my helmet, they measure PERFECTLY to protrude just enough from the helmet (Classic CE MK V) and fit inside to wire to a battery. Plus, they also become functional at that point in the sense that where ever I look, there will be a light (just like the game itself haha). I am looking at these for the helmet opposed to just placing 4 leds in to a battery and having them glow, but I have not decided yet.

I know the UV won't project much (if at all) but again, I'm not going for that look so it won't bum me out if they don't show much on a well lit floor (I get mistaken for a storm trooper anyway, bah!).

What do you think? If I try them in the helmet would it be better to find a 12v power supply for them?

Also, regarding my post above this: The image I have setup for #1, will that work? Did I do it right or should I go back to the drawing board?

Thank you very much for taking the time to look, I really appreciate it!!

 

[thatdecade]

Your first picture isn't going to work with those uv LEDs, they need at least 3.5V or else they'll be even dimmer. . Use a 3 or 4 aa/aaa battery pack along with that 100 ohm wiring.

It is ok to have spot lights on your helmet, be sure to aim them downward. Aiming them straight forward would be bad. People don't like being blinded and it makes for bad pictures.

People still like using really bright LEDs, but have been moving more toward diffused LEDs, or ultra bright LEDs with a diffuser. Blinding people is a big concern.

On your led website have a look at the Millicandela/Lumen rating, that is the perceived brightness. The violet and uv LEDs, says n/a...

Did you notice this?

Cautions:
■ UV light is harmful to eyes, so must be avoid direct lighting to eyes.

 

[Revenant1988]

Your first picture isn't going to work with those uv LEDs, they need at least 3.5V or else they'll be even dimmer. . Use a 3 or 4 aa/aaa battery pack along with that 100 ohm wiring.

It is ok to have spot lights on your helmet, be sure to aim them downward. Aiming them straight forward would be bad. People don't like being blinded and it makes for bad pictures.

People still like using really bright LEDs, but have been moving more toward diffused LEDs, or ultra bright LEDs with a diffuser. Blinding people is a big concern.

On your led website have a look at the Millicandela/Lumen rating, that is the perceived brightness. The violet and uv LEDs, says n/a...

Did you notice this?

I didn't even see they needed 3.5v - Thanks for pointing that out. Now I know what to look for when browsing them individually. I find some of this really confusing. I've seen other builds here and people just wire a battery pack directly to the leds and just go with it. I'm assuming that they probably don't last very long or something but I want to do the wiring right, I want fair life out of them and I don't want to fry them. (stress!!)

I was planning to diffuse the spotlights for floors, but not out at night- they have a cap you can put on them that works pretty well. My dream setup for my helmet is
(2) white spotlights, (2) violet. I've been toying with how to wire them on one power source but have a ON/OFF/ON switch so that in one ON position, only the white light up, and in the other ON position only the violet ones light up. Still working on how to make that work if its possible. :/

For the rest of my suit I'm going to diffuse the light holes with a frosted plastic I have. I've got some blue LEDs I've tested and they look pretty neat. It lights up the "window" but it's not like a flash light.

I did NOT notice the eye harm warning on the UV ones... strange. Our zoo here does "Wildlights" every holiday season and they have a TON of trees wrapped in UV lights. Crazy. With that in mind I'll probably just switch to the violet leds over the UV ones.

I just noticed the link to your shop- I may be using something there if I ever get a cast of a certain automatic weapon

Clearly you do this stuff a lot- Do you have your own suit?

 

[thatdecade]

I have a few suits, no lights in 'em though. Just fans. Someday I'll trick the good suit out with all the wiring fun.

The on off on switch you described is called a SPDT switch. It has three wire connectors.
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm

I like your plans for white and violet, should be cool.