"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Does anybody have experience with applying fiberglass resin over 1/16" mat board? Specifically, is it too dense to saturate or will it permeate into the paper like with cardstock?
Carpathia
Sr Member
Resin permeates pretty well into matboard. One place I used this was as a connection point for my torso (the part with the hole in it int he second picture)...
When I applied a layer of fiberglass mat and resin, the matboard soaked in the resin pretty well. It won't soak completely through the matboard, but it will get the first few layers pretty well. If you're able to do like I did and resin both sides, then it will be pretty well saturated. If you're applying the matboard as a detail, then I suggest resining the inside of the piece after you resin the outside. That way the resin can soak through the cardstock and into the matboard a bit.
When I applied a layer of fiberglass mat and resin, the matboard soaked in the resin pretty well. It won't soak completely through the matboard, but it will get the first few layers pretty well. If you're able to do like I did and resin both sides, then it will be pretty well saturated. If you're applying the matboard as a detail, then I suggest resining the inside of the piece after you resin the outside. That way the resin can soak through the cardstock and into the matboard a bit.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Thanks, that's what I was expecting but wanted to verify from somebody who has resined mat board before I got too far along in my detailing. I was planning to resin both sides before adding Rondo. Now a second related question...
I've read in many posts that resin saturates into the paper, fusing with the fibers (thus the potential for warpage if weight exceeds support). Also mentioned in several posts is an apparent problem if sanding too far into the resin and exposing the cardstock, and the need to apply a second agent such as superglue to the raw paper edges. Well, if the resin has fused into the paper, then how can there be exposed "frayed" paper after filing/sanding? Wouldn't the resin saturation preclude raw paper from being visible after primer? Why treat with superglue instead of resin?
hello!
i'm currently about to move onto the bondo stage for all of my pieces. I wanted to ask if I still need to use my respirator when working with just body filler. Do I also need to use gloves as well? What can I use to spread the body filler for small areas when the spreaders I bought are too big?
Thanks!
i'm currently about to move onto the bondo stage for all of my pieces. I wanted to ask if I still need to use my respirator when working with just body filler. Do I also need to use gloves as well? What can I use to spread the body filler for small areas when the spreaders I bought are too big?
Thanks!
spartan IV
Jr Member
Personally when I work with Bondo I don't use my respirator. As long as I am in a well ventilated area its smell is a lot less compared to resin. If you bought a pack of spreaders I suggest tacking the largest one and cutting off an inch of it to gain a very small and useful spreader.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Resin does not always penetrate completely through the cardstock; sometimes it begins to harden too quickly to saturate that deep. Often, when I resin the outside of a piece, I will find that a very good portion of the inside is still dry cardstock.
Admittedly, I do this too. However, it's still advisable to wear a respirator. Body filler and fiberglass resin are essentially the same chemicals (body filler has a thickening agent added), so they release the same fumes. Even if the smell is reduced, you're still smelling the harmful chemicals.
I would definitely recommend gloves when working with bondo, if nothing more than a matter of cleanliness. Also, Sparta IV is right with the spreaders. I typically cut down one spreader at a time from the three pack you can find; cutting each down to about a 1" to 1-1/2" wide spreader.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Okay, good to know. However, after the initial "thin" coat is applied to the outside, I was intending to apply a "normal" coat on the inside before Rondo. So I'm thinking the paper will be fully resined. Still, why do people suggest superglue for curing the exposed paper when they already have resin purchased? I would think resin+resin would be better than superglue+resin for uniformity of the materials...
Gokussj5okazu
Well-Known Member
Quite often when smoothing the outside, you will end up sanding through the edges areas. The superglue is suggested mainly because mixing resin in small quantities is a pain in the butt and typically wastes a bit. Super glue can be squeezed on right where you want it, dries quick, and can be sanded just as well as resin.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Okay. Since it's probably typical for the different armor pieces to be in a different state of completion during a build, I would expect that a batch of resin mixed up for one piece can also be used over the edges of another piece that's further along in the process. Thanks for the answers.
FreedNightHawk
New Member
Just gotta say, when I'm running smooth layers of Bondo or Rondo, my absolute most favorite tool is, believe it or not, old credit/debit/gift/whatever cards. Most flexible, smoothest, easiest applying tool I've ever come across lol. Also a whole lot cheaper and easier to cut down than even HF's Bondo paddles.
i need help with my newest project. I am working on a covenant carbine, just finished cutting the pep pieces. I have made 2 predator masks and several other masks. I also made a plasma rifle. The issue is it is easy to fiberglass a mask because it is easy to access both sides. The plasma rifle looks awesome to the naked eye but to me it is warped and weak in many ways. How on earth to i deal with hollow structures? From good glueing techniques to good fiberglassing.
@b3nd3r
I've only built two closed weapon models but the easiest way I would think to strengthen would be to resin the outside in sections to limit warping and then use a liquidy rondo mixture and pour that into your weapon where ever you have a hole, say if you didn't pep the barrel on you could pour it into there and then just slush it around until it covers the entire inside and is as thick as you'd like it to be. I have also seen people use expanding foam for their weapons but I have never tried that method.
I've only built two closed weapon models but the easiest way I would think to strengthen would be to resin the outside in sections to limit warping and then use a liquidy rondo mixture and pour that into your weapon where ever you have a hole, say if you didn't pep the barrel on you could pour it into there and then just slush it around until it covers the entire inside and is as thick as you'd like it to be. I have also seen people use expanding foam for their weapons but I have never tried that method.
Carpathia
Sr Member
The problem with using rondo to harden a weapon from the inside is that it has a tendency to shrink a bit while hardening, sucking in the sides of the gun a bit (it's happened to me over and over). The problem with using expanding foam is exactly the opposite, it bulges out the walls of the gun (again, it's happened to me).
You may have to invest in a casting resin or something similar, something that is made specifically to be slush cast and does not shrink. Look at the Smooth On product line for something. I can't recommend a specific type of resin since I haven't worked with any just yet, but perhaps someone can.
You may have to invest in a casting resin or something similar, something that is made specifically to be slush cast and does not shrink. Look at the Smooth On product line for something. I can't recommend a specific type of resin since I haven't worked with any just yet, but perhaps someone can.
MasterOfTheChiefs
New Member
Could you be a little more specific? I think I could better assess your problem (thus giving you a better answer) if I new exactly what you were talking about.
Editing of posts is enabled, so if you leave something out you can add to it easily without needing to double post. You can also delete posts in many situations if you need to completely scrap one!
As to the question at hand, the best way to keep detail is to use less bondo! There is more to it than that little non-answer though, when you are going over large areas, use a spreader to minimize bondo applied. We see a lot of people who glop on a lot with their hand/a popsicle stick, and it really quickly blots out the details. When working in recessed areas you usually want to carefully use tape and a hobby knife. Tape off the areas you don't want bondo at the moment (you should only do one side at a time in a cavity), then apply the bondo and try and smooth it as much as possible. THEN When the bondo is hard enough it holds shape but still soft enough you can push it in with your fingernail, take the hobby knife and cut off the excess.
There is a magic window of about 5 minutes when you can easily cut the bondo like it was tofu or something, and it will get you very crisp, sharp edges and flat surfaces. Absolutely practice this a couple times to be sure you know what consistency the bondo is when it works best.
For further tips and magic tricks on bondo (some of them really seem like magic) check out Cereal's in depth bondo working tutorial videos where you can see him doing these things and more:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
Carpathia
Sr Member
Fiberglass resin is the correct type of resin for this hobby.
shotgun rumble
Jr Member
more specifically i would say use bondo fiberglass resin and body filler typically found at walmart or home depo, lowes, or ace hardware. hope that helps you man!
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