"Help!" for: Molding

[Ghost Bear 027]

Anybody have a good recommendation for the master mold? :confused

I've been using Smooth On's Plasti paste, but it's a bit of a mess and comes out jagged, tearing apart my gloves and hands while pouring casts. I've seen some smooth molds out there, but want something that will be compatible with the rebound 25 I've grown to love so much.

 

[Rookie425]

Alright, so I'm little more than halfway through making a Halo 3 Marine helmet and I plan on making a mold for various purposes (trading, etsy, and multiple costumes, etc.) but I need to know where to begin with this kind of a design. I saw Thorssoli's blog a while back on how he made the helmet, using it as inspiration during my process, and for those who haven't seen this, it ended on a rather bittersweet note with him making a successful mother mold for the Marine CH252 helmet at the cost of his master helmet.

Firstly, I'd like to know where the hell I should start in making a mold that is safe for the CH252 design, as I've seen multiple tutorials and most of them are for common closed-face helmets such as MJOLNIR or ODST pieces. Second, how can I avoid having to sacrifice the master build for the mother mold?

 

[Katsu]

Well, depends on your funds, and how much work you want to put in.

For the open lid on the marine, you have sort of two options from my experience/opinion:
1) Modify the helmet to have a "temporary" closure of its open sides. Basically seal up the helmet completely, then build the mold. When you cast a copy you have to cut out this "covering". You see it on basically any molded helmet (because the visor always has to be removed, but it's left on during the mold making process). You could resin on some cardboard, or CNC something to cover it up.
2) Make a "half" mold. If you are really careful painting the latex/silicone on I guess you could try making a mold that just covers the helmet as it is. This is harder to slush cast though, but less short term work.

Honestly, having written them out, I think option 1 is the better bet. Someone else may have other ideas, but I say just seal the thing up. The master mold shouldn't really be "worn" anyways.

 

[Rookie425]

I'll keep both under advisement, but I'm leaning more toward option two. I'd hate to put this much work into the master, reinforcement and such, just to have it as a tool rather than a mantlepiece or a usable prop.

 

[Katsu]

I can understand that. Your call ultimately. You could also probably make a temporary plug for the helmet, and remove it later, get the best of both worlds!

 

[Rookie425]

I like that idea, but I'm wondering what I could use for said plug. The first thing that came to mind was a mannequin head...grim, right?

 

[Katsu]

I've even seen people just use ducttape covered newspaper. There's really no one right way to do it, so long as it gets sealed up properly.

 

[Ghost Bear 027]

Seran wrap (or however the bloody thing is spelled) leaves a single face to latex to, it will peel off easy, and won't leave cracks like strips of duct tape will. I've done both. I like the wrap around cardboard secured to the inside with a bit of glue.

 

[Carpathia]

UPDATE:

This thread has been retired and replaced with an updated FAQ thread. If you have posted a question here that has not been answered, check the FAQ thread. Further one-time questions can be found or directed there.


http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/40644-FAQ-Molding-amp-Casting