"Help!" for: Painting

[BuildsByBaz]

I used Duplicolor paint and topcoat on my Carter helmet. I never got a chance to wear the helmet around because I was never happy with it, but I was very happy with the paint-job. Will it offer the level of protection you're looking for? There's only one way to find out...

I was going to suggest the same thing - automotive clear coat. How strong is it? The same strength it would be on a car, which endures a lot more than your armor is likely to. I painted the dragon heads on my Gene Simmons boots (and the torso and arms armor) using automotive lacquers with a sprayer and after 20 years they still hold the same color, still as shiny when polished up, and have no chips, scratches, etc on them. They are metallic silver with clear top coat. The dragon "teeth" on the platform soles are also painted, and (being closest to the ground so receiving the most wear-and-tear) they also have no marks on them. Bottom line: automotive paints are WAY more durable than counter aerosol spray paints.

Thanks Carpathia and RobotChicken. I'll try some on one of the shoulder plates and see how it goes. I noticed acrylic paint takes a LOT longer to harden and you can't even touch it with a finger for at least a couple of days!

 

[Zaff]

Most metallics, and especially acrylics, have longer curing times. Metallics can also be a nuisance when it comes to a top coat, as the metallic effect can be dulled even with a glossy clear coat. Buffing and waxing will help with this, though.

 

[morkar78]

Hi guys,
what technique do you use for shadows? I'm painting some pieces of my master chief armor, and I wanted to do some shadow using this technique:

result: I had to paint them again....I may have used the wrong black color...any suggestion?

 

[Carpathia]

I've never gotten that method to work for me either. The way I blackwash (the term for creating dark recesses) is this:

1. Prime/Paint the model
2. Apply two coats of clear coat finish
3. Allow to dry for 24 hours (the clear coats will protect the paint underneath in the following steps, so it's important that it's dry)
4. Gather paint thinner, black/brown paint (I actually use black dye instead of paint) and two rags
5. Put paint thinner on one rag and wipe piece in the area you want to darken
6. While thinner is still wet on the surface, but black paint/dye on the other rag and wipe the area covered in thinner (ensuring you get down into any recesses)
7. Quickly take thinner-soaked rag and wipe away black paint/dye, leaving behind a black residue in the recesses
8. Repeat as necessary over all areas you wish to blackwash
9. Add a final dull clear coat (optional)

If you find during the process that the black paint/dye isn't getting down into narrow recesses like channels, you can use a small paint brush (like the ones you'd use for a model car).

 

[morkar78]

WOW! Thanks...sounds funny!

 

[JayOneSeven]

I've never gotten that method to work for me either. The way I blackwash (the term for creating dark recesses) is this:

1. Prime/Paint the model
2. Apply two coats of clear coat finish
3. Allow to dry for 24 hours (the clear coats will protect the paint underneath in the following steps, so it's important that it's dry)
4. Gather paint thinner, black/brown paint (I actually use black dye instead of paint) and two rags
5. Put paint thinner on one rag and wipe piece in the area you want to darken
6. While thinner is still wet on the surface, but black paint/dye on the other rag and wipe the area covered in thinner (ensuring you get down into any recesses)
7. Quickly take thinner-soaked rag and wipe away black paint/dye, leaving behind a black residue in the recesses
8. Repeat as necessary over all areas you wish to blackwash
9. Add a final dull clear coat (optional)

If you find during the process that the black paint/dye isn't getting down into narrow recesses like channels, you can use a small paint brush (like the ones you'd use for a model car).

I'll definitely be trying this, thanks for the tip. It's actually what I came here to find

 

[morkar78]

Hi guys. I need some more help: I wear the few wearable pieces of my armor for a party and at the end of the party the painting in them was scratched....Is it possible to protect the painting from being scratched?

 

[Chainsaw ninja]

I'll definitely be trying this, thanks for the tip. It's actually what I came here to find

Haha same here!

And morkar all I can say is a few coats of clear spray paint. I use this krylon 2x clear spray paint and I can barely scratch the camo on my pb gun if I tried

 

[morkar78]

Clear spray paint! Got it...thanks!

 

[Chainsaw ninja]

I've used acrylic and hand painted my helmet and it'll be fine if I put a few coats of clear spray paint and it wouldn't ruin it would it?

 

[Katsu]

If the clear coat is the right type for the paints you used, then it will be okay.. Check that it is for whichever acrylics you are using. I personally try and get the clear coat from the same company that made the paints I used, as it will be more explicit that "Tamiya Acrylic Clear Coat" will work with "Tamiya Acrylic Paints" for example.

Be careful though, as clear coats are designed to also have an effect on the appearance of paints. A satin clear coat will dull the colors to make them Matte, a gloss will make them shiny. If you use too much, it can also really ugly up the piece, so hold the can far away and don't hold it in one spot for too long. Light coats of paint!

I sprayed too close and too long on a spot on my pistol and the clearcoat turned white and dried white.

 

[purpuk]

I've seen kitchen condiments used as the resist layer....like peanut butter or mustard.....just put it where you want to see the under-colour and spray over it letting it dry.....wipe off the bubbled bits and you have the silver/black underlayer show through as if the top coat was scratched off.

 

[purpuk]

if it's too cold or humid when you spray paint clear coat paint it will absorb the moisture in the air and give you that white "Amine Blush" every time.

 

[Fluffy Kittens]

Hi. I'm sure this question has already been answered but I have better things to do than look through the 30 pages here. How do you make armor look battle damaged and dirty without ruining it?

 

[Carpathia]

Hi. I'm sure this question has already been answered but I have better things to do than look through the 30 pages here. How do you make armor look battle damaged and dirty without ruining it?

You have better things to do than a little research on how to do something that's been covered multiple times? I just covered my own process in the previous page.

 

[Fluffy Kittens]

You have better things to do than a little research on how to do something that's been covered multiple times? I just covered my own process in the previous page.

Yes, I do. I would prefer less looking at a screen, more working on Halo armor.

 

[Zaff]

Yes, I do. I would prefer less looking at a screen, more working on Halo armor.

Not the best attitude to have if you want people to help you out here, especially as everyone who's gone anywhere with their builds has invested the time to RESEARCH and LEARN, rather than demand and demean. If you're not willing to put in the little bit of effort it takes to find what so many people have discussed and shared before, then the only thing I can tell you is "figure it out on your own then." And don't come here whining about how much time and material you're wasting on trial and error.

I mean seriously, what makes more sense: take even an hour of your time to do a little research, or spend many, many hours and a heap of cash in wasted material figuring it out for yourself? These people have done the trial and error, they've "wasted" their time and money learning the dos and don'ts when it comes to getting the desired results. You can either invest the time it takes to learn for their experience, or settle in for the long haul of making your own mistakes over and over again, but demanding that they all jump in and cater personally to you and hand-deliver what's been made widely accessible to anyone who puts even an ounce of effort into it, that's not an option.

 

[Fluffy Kittens]

Not the best attitude to have if you want people to help you out here, especially as everyone who's gone anywhere with their builds has invested the time to RESEARCH and LEARN, rather than demand and demean. If you're not willing to put in the little bit of effort it takes to find what so many people have discussed and shared before, then the only thing I can tell you is "figure it out on your own then." And don't come here whining about how much time and material you're wasting on trial and error.

I mean seriously, what makes more sense: take even an hour of your time to do a little research, or spend many, many hours and a heap of cash in wasted material figuring it out for yourself? These people have done the trial and error, they've "wasted" their time and money learning the dos and don'ts when it comes to getting the desired results. You can either invest the time it takes to learn for their experience, or settle in for the long haul of making your own mistakes over and over again, but demanding that they all jump in and cater personally to you and hand-deliver what's been made widely accessible to anyone who puts even an ounce of effort into it, that's not an option.

I think that if they know the answer, they should shair it with people who don't. It takes them 1 minute to help me save a couple hours of research. It is also Carpathia's job to help out noobs like me. Especially because he/she's a moderator.

Can I be given a link or get told how to make armor look weathered? The previous page doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Chainsaw ninja]

It is no one's job to help you! Moderators jobs are to keep unruly people like you off this site. They only help people of they decide to

 

[Carpathia]

I think that if they know the answer, they should shair it with people who don't. It takes them 1 minute to help me save a couple hours of research. It is also Carpathia's job to help out noobs like me. Especially because he/she's a moderator.

It is absolutely not my job to hold your hand through your learning process. My responsibilities as a moderator involve moderating the site (deleting spam posts, moving threads, banning unruly members, etc). The mantle of teaching this stuff to you is placed on you. Go back to the NOOB Forum stickies, open up the New Recruit Orientation Video thread and watch it again. Pay particular attention when Adam says that this hobby is a lot of work that invovles a lot of research and (at 2:30) that we are not here to teach you.

Can I be given a link or get told how to make armor look weathered?

It's not as easy as giving you a link. I don't know the location of every thread off the top of my head, nor does everyone else. The information is out there, look for it.

The previous page doesn't make sense to me.

What is it about this process that isn't clear to you? I'd be happy to clarify.

I've never gotten that method to work for me either. The way I blackwash (the term for creating dark recesses) is this:

1. Prime/Paint the model
2. Apply two coats of clear coat finish
3. Allow to dry for 24 hours (the clear coats will protect the paint underneath in the following steps, so it's important that it's dry)
4. Gather paint thinner, black/brown paint (I actually use black dye instead of paint) and two rags
5. Put paint thinner on one rag and wipe piece in the area you want to darken
6. While thinner is still wet on the surface, but black paint/dye on the other rag and wipe the area covered in thinner (ensuring you get down into any recesses)
7. Quickly take thinner-soaked rag and wipe away black paint/dye, leaving behind a black residue in the recesses
8. Repeat as necessary over all areas you wish to blackwash
9. Add a final dull clear coat (optional)

If you find during the process that the black paint/dye isn't getting down into narrow recesses like channels, you can use a small paint brush (like the ones you'd use for a model car).