Is There Any Other Way To Strengthen Pepakura Instead Of Using Fiberglass?

[coolguy26]

Fiberglass resin is something i cant buy.

Is there anything else?

Something cheaper and something very easy i can find.

Like in my house?



Does paper mache work?

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Smooth-Cast 300/320, Hot Glue, Paper Mache. Those 3 things are the basic 3 methods for non-fiberglass use on armour.

 

[coolguy26]

Smooth-Cast 300/320, Hot Glue, Paper Mache. Those 3 things are the basic 3 methods for non-fiberglass use on armour.

Thanks I have everything but the Smooth-Cast 300/320. What is that?

 

[Night Star]

Smooth-Cast 300/320=polyurethane type plastic resin



something you can't get locally

 

[the stig]

Like liquid plastic that drys to... well... plastic.

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

the Smooth-Cast 300/320 is probably the best thing to go with. Its fast and easy to work with, you don't need resin or fiberglass, and you have very little need for bondo and spot putty. Its a time saver, and actually, in the long run (work hours) far cheeper. Lets say, for examply, you do resin anf fiberglass. That would take you (for examply, to finish all of the armour) 300 man hours. If you do the Smooth Cast 300/320, your looking at 100 man hours, 150 tops. And that includes peping, slush casting (Smooth-Cast 300/320) bondo, spot putty, paint, weathering, and strapping. The fiberglass way only includes peping, resining, and fiberglassing. As you can see, its totally worth the extra few dollars for the materials.

 

[coolguy26]

Thanks guys



But i think ill stick with the paper mache way.



And when im doing the paper mache, should i put some on the inside too?

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

What do you mean by "the inside too"? Only put it on the inside. It will prove to be a far better overall finish for the armour, especially while using paper mache to reinforce the armour.

 

[Tandhem]

i just made this exact thread yesterday in the same place

 

[SirPalesAlot]

the Smooth-Cast 300/320 is probably the best thing to go with. Its fast and easy to work with, you don't need resin or fiberglass, and you have very little need for bondo and spot putty. Its a time saver, and actually, in the long run (work hours) far cheeper. Lets say, for examply, you do resin anf fiberglass. That would take you (for examply, to finish all of the armour) 300 man hours. If you do the Smooth Cast 300/320, your looking at 100 man hours, 150 tops. And that includes peping, slush casting (Smooth-Cast 300/320) bondo, spot putty, paint, weathering, and strapping. The fiberglass way only includes peping, resining, and fiberglassing. As you can see, its totally worth the extra few dollars for the materials.

Ive been working with fiberglass and I must say I am not exactly fast with it as some of the people I know. I had wondered if anyone used any smooth-on products on their pep. I was thinking of using my pep as the mold for the plastic instead of going through with the fiberglass method. One thing I am concerned about is how well the plastic releases from the paper. Do the spray release agents work well enough that it doesnt stick, or is there anything else that is needed on the paper before you add the plastic. (I am saying that as if I have my pep resined on the outside already just to keep it from warping) I plan to just pour the plastic inside the part and just slush cast as if it were a normal mold then peel the pep off the plastic and discard it.



Also, if you do decide to use you pep work as sort of a mold then why not use a product like TUF-Fill or Smooth-ons Shell Shock to add extra material to the outside in the areas that are recessed more than you want them to be? The way I see it, if you make the wall thickness of your part thick enough, you can sand and smooth out any hard lines and shape the part like you want without sanding through the part, and for the raised detail on the outside there are also alternatives if I am not mistaken. I do not like the idea of using bondo to make the parts really just because of the durability factor, although its pretty easy to work with for the most part. If Im wrong on anything let me know...and sorry for kind of hijacking the thread just a bit...but since it was mentioned I had to ask, and I thought others might also want to know and it would be better than sending a PM.

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

Im currently using the Smooth-On method. I just got my Smooth-Cast 320 with some black tint in about 3 days ago, and ever since I have been playing around with it. Its awesome. You just poor a bit into your pepakura piece, slush it around, and let it gell. Then keep doing that until your happy with the thickness.



But, the pepakura piece only serves as a desposable mold. As soon as your done with applying the plastic on the inside, you sand off the paper/cardstock. Then you sand some more, add Bondo to any needing areas, and sand. Keep doing that over and over again, then do spot putty. Then prime the piece, paint it, weather it, and there you go.



I have personally tried Fiberglassing, Hot Glue and Slush casting, and by far, the slush casting method is the best. I HIGHLY reccoment it!

 

[SirPalesAlot]

Im currently using the Smooth-On method. I just got my Smooth-Cast 320 with some black tint in about 3 days ago, and ever since I have been playing around with it. Its awesome. You just poor a bit into your pepakura piece, slush it around, and let it gell. Then keep doing that until your happy with the thickness.



But, the pepakura piece only serves as a desposable mold. As soon as your done with applying the plastic on the inside, you sand off the paper/cardstock. Then you sand some more, add Bondo to any needing areas, and sand. Keep doing that over and over again, then do spot putty. Then prime the piece, paint it, weather it, and there you go.



I have personally tried Fiberglassing, Hot Glue and Slush casting, and by far, the slush casting method is the best. I HIGHLY reccoment it!

So had you tried using a release agent on the pep to get the paper off without sanding? If you were to pull the paper off then all you would have to and off would be were the sharp edges were and where the flaps showed up, but they are so small it wouldnt be a problem. If you havent tried using a release agent then Ill give it a shot.

 

[Enrisan]

I have some pieces with about 2-3 layers of resin on the outside, if I slush cast the inside then isn't it permanent that way?

What do you mean by sanding the paper off, is that when you've only slush casted the inside and done nothing to the outside?

how much do you think I would need to fill the inside of two shins and cod/belt and boots?

 

[coolguy26]

What do you mean by "the inside too"? Only put it on the inside. It will prove to be a far better overall finish for the armour, especially while using paper mache to reinforce the armour.

Ohh so i dont put it on the outside? Just the outside?

 

[mc halo3]

the Smooth-Cast 300/320 is probably the best thing to go with. Its fast and easy to work with, you don't need resin or fiberglass, and you have very little need for bondo and spot putty. Its a time saver, and actually, in the long run (work hours) far cheeper. Lets say, for example, you do resin and fiberglass. That would take you (for example, to finish all of the armor) 300 man hours. If you do the Smooth Cast 300/320, your looking at 100 man hours, 150 tops. And that includes pepping, slush casting (Smooth-Cast 300/320) bondo, spot putty, paint, weathering, and strapping. The fiberglass way only includes pepping, resining, and fiber-glassing. As you can see, its totally worth the extra few dollars for the materials.

This is a surefire way as well.I highly recommend it too

 

[Xtreme TACTICS 101]

So had you tried using a release agent on the pep to get the paper off without sanding? If you were to pull the paper off then all you would have to and off would be were the sharp edges were and where the flaps showed up, but they are so small it wouldnt be a problem. If you havent tried using a release agent then Ill give it a shot.

Its not worth the trouble. Regardless you would have to sand it. No matter what, its 100% not worth buying a ton of reliece agents, and finding out its the worst idea you ever had, and you see you just spent a tone of money for no good reason.

Ohh so i dont put it on the outside? Just the outside?

You only put it on the INSIDE, NOT the outside. I repeat, the INSIDE, NOT the outside!

 

[coolguy26]

Its not worth the trouble. Regardless you would have to sand it. No matter what, its 100% not worth buying a ton of reliece agents, and finding out its the worst idea you ever had, and you see you just spent a tone of money for no good reason.







You only put it on the INSIDE, NOT the outside. I repeat, the INSIDE, NOT the outside!

Ok thanks and i did a typo on the second sentence