Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:Smooth-Cast 300/320, Hot Glue, Paper Mache. Those 3 things are the basic 3 methods for non-fiberglass use on armour.
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:the Smooth-Cast 300/320 is probably the best thing to go with. Its fast and easy to work with, you don't need resin or fiberglass, and you have very little need for bondo and spot putty. Its a time saver, and actually, in the long run (work hours) far cheeper. Lets say, for examply, you do resin anf fiberglass. That would take you (for examply, to finish all of the armour) 300 man hours. If you do the Smooth Cast 300/320, your looking at 100 man hours, 150 tops. And that includes peping, slush casting (Smooth-Cast 300/320) bondo, spot putty, paint, weathering, and strapping. The fiberglass way only includes peping, resining, and fiberglassing. As you can see, its totally worth the extra few dollars for the materials.
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:Im currently using the Smooth-On method. I just got my Smooth-Cast 320 with some black tint in about 3 days ago, and ever since I have been playing around with it. Its awesome. You just poor a bit into your pepakura piece, slush it around, and let it gell. Then keep doing that until your happy with the thickness.
But, the pepakura piece only serves as a desposable mold. As soon as your done with applying the plastic on the inside, you sand off the paper/cardstock. Then you sand some more, add Bondo to any needing areas, and sand. Keep doing that over and over again, then do spot putty. Then prime the piece, paint it, weather it, and there you go.
I have personally tried Fiberglassing, Hot Glue and Slush casting, and by far, the slush casting method is the best. I HIGHLY reccoment it!
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:What do you mean by "the inside too"? Only put it on the inside. It will prove to be a far better overall finish for the armour, especially while using paper mache to reinforce the armour.
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:the Smooth-Cast 300/320 is probably the best thing to go with. Its fast and easy to work with, you don't need resin or fiberglass, and you have very little need for bondo and spot putty. Its a time saver, and actually, in the long run (work hours) far cheeper. Lets say, for example, you do resin and fiberglass. That would take you (for example, to finish all of the armor) 300 man hours. If you do the Smooth Cast 300/320, your looking at 100 man hours, 150 tops. And that includes pepping, slush casting (Smooth-Cast 300/320) bondo, spot putty, paint, weathering, and strapping. The fiberglass way only includes pepping, resining, and fiber-glassing. As you can see, its totally worth the extra few dollars for the materials.
SirPalesAlot said:So had you tried using a release agent on the pep to get the paper off without sanding? If you were to pull the paper off then all you would have to and off would be were the sharp edges were and where the flaps showed up, but they are so small it wouldnt be a problem. If you havent tried using a release agent then Ill give it a shot.
coolguy26 said:Ohh so i dont put it on the outside? Just the outside?
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:Its not worth the trouble. Regardless you would have to sand it. No matter what, its 100% not worth buying a ton of reliece agents, and finding out its the worst idea you ever had, and you see you just spent a tone of money for no good reason.
You only put it on the INSIDE, NOT the outside. I repeat, the INSIDE, NOT the outside!