1st Build AlphaLupi's Halo 3 Marine Build Log

[AlphaLupi]

Greetings, this is my first time returning to this forum in.. 14 years! I wanted to build Halo armor in the 405th since I was a kid, failing to master Pepakura altogether. Now that I have a Neptune 3 Plus, I think Im ready to get this party started.

I'm attempting to start a Halo 3 marine, using the files provided in the file library.

And so the helmet is done printing, after trial and error, and having to reprint this guy from PLA+ to PETG, (I'm new to 3d printing, this is my first helmet ever attempted on the machine)

I just stuffed the sides with foam as a fitting/comfort test. Using extra helmet pads I used for my Scout Trooper helmet (501st)
Next up I'll be printing the shoulders following that the Chest piece. I've already printed one shoulder before in PLA+ but again need to replace with PETG.. But good news its given me somewhat of an idea on sizing.

I've attempted to use Armorsmith for sizing but its now defunct apprently/broken, (at least for me?) until they update the software I'm gonna be eyeing it and trying to measure as good as possible.

I'm also deciding right now what kind of camo I should be using for this build, Ive read the thread suggesting faded New Zealand DPM (Used by WETA Workshops in Halo: Landfall), and British Desert DPM, if you guys have any camo suggestions lmk

British Desert DPM

Faded New Zealand DPM

I also don't know if I should use Wood Filler or Bondo for the helmet, if you guys know which is preferable, I'd like to know which! Oh and sand paper info please, lol, new to this

Thanks for reading, end ted talk. lol

 

[Cadet]

I'm still a big proponent of the British Desert Disruptive Pattern Material, but another good pattern suggested recently was the Swedish M90 desert variant (M90K) seen here:

Foam - H3 Hornet Pilot - V1 Complete

Backstory I've been wanting to remake my first build for awhile now. Back in 2016 I did a speed build DFT Marine. It wasn't too bad considering I was still new to this hobby and had never built a suit to completion. However, it's not very accurate, overweathered, and falling apart. Plus my...

www.405th.com

 

[Fallen]

DDPM is definitely one option people use. Other options people have gone with include ACU's and multicam.

My build used the Swedish M90K for an off the shelf version

Spidermonkey's marine build used a city camo that was dyed

TurboCharizard's hornet pilot similarly used a white BDU dyed

As for wood filler or Bondo, that's up to you. Personally, I like Bondo's Spot Putty for most issues, but if there are large gaps filling with body filler (also available from Bondo) or w/ some melted filament first.

For sandpaper are you asking like grits or brand suggestions? Grit wise starting somewhere around 80-100 is common and moving up to however high you want to go. I stop around 320 or 400ish but sometimes even at 220 when in a rush. Brand wish depends on what's available to you when you need it and budget. Personally I've found 3M's Stikit rolls have lasted me a long time. Grown to like them since I find the sticky back to be versatile whether folding over for hand sanding or sticking to a tool for getting into specific edges.

 

[N8TEBB]

I am aware of a bug in armorsmith that botches pepakura unfolds when scaling non-uniformly, but I am not aware of any issues with scaling stls for 3D printing. Not sure what's going on there... what exactly is the problem you're having?

I prefer spot putty to wood filler. I find it holds its shape better and gives you more control for sanding. You can actually tackle some pretty big issues with spot putty. If the issues are larger, you can use regular body filler. I don't really like wood filler from the little bit I've tried it because it's grittier, sands away too easily to the point it might as well just fall off, and it trickier to apply to larger imperfections. Filler primer and spot putty is a good combination to use.

For sandpaper, I sand the raw print with 80 grit, and then immediately skip to 220. Then I do filler primer and spot putty, and sand with 220. I'll repeat filler primer and spot putty again with another 220 sand, then apply filling materials and working my way up in sandpaper. I don't go past 400, if I even get that far. For most stuff, 220 is all I use.

 

[AlphaLupi]

I am aware of a bug in armorsmith that botches pepakura unfolds when scaling non-uniformly, but I am not aware of any issues with scaling stls for 3D printing. Not sure what's going on there... what exactly is the problem you're having?

I prefer spot putty to wood filler. I find it holds its shape better and gives you more control for sanding. You can actually tackle some pretty big issues with spot putty. If the issues are larger, you can use regular body filler. I don't really like wood filler from the little bit I've tried it because it's grittier, sands away too easily to the point it might as well just fall off, and it trickier to apply to larger imperfections. Filler primer and spot putty is a good combination to use.

For sandpaper, I sand the raw print with 80 grit, and then immediately skip to 220. Then I do filler primer and spot putty, and sand with 220. I'll repeat filler primer and spot putty again with another 220 sand, then apply filling materials and working my way up in sandpaper. I don't go past 400, if I even get that far. For most stuff, 220 is all I use.

Basically if I put in my measurements it puts in a a bunch of negative values that I can’t erase or replace, I saw some recent users on the reviews on their website having the same issue and I haven’t been able to fix it?

Also got it, spot putty I’ll give it a try and yeah I was wondering about the grits and the overall process, thanks for that info

This person had the same problem

 

[AlphaLupi]

Thank you guys for the Swedish m90k suggestion, didn’t see that, I’ll also look into getting some spot putty

 

[Rock Lobbster]

This may sounds horrid but try using imperial measurements in armorsmith or rolling back the software to a previous update (there should be a few versions in the gumroad)