My First Armor Build: War Machine 80% and Almost Complete....PICS!

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Here's what I did. I did use the 1.9 scale also. The shoulder bells I went up 10% in scale to give it a more beefier look and so with the toe and heel covers too even things out with the top for even semmitry. My legs are also 1.9 in scale but they can be modified after their pepped. They can also be cut down if they are already fiberglassed with a dremel tool if their too long. May I ask how tall are you by the way? Do you mean big as in wide or as in tall?
 
warmachineelite said:
Straight Pepakura with major fiberglassing, sanding and bondo. Also alot of trip's to Home Depot for the hinges for the articulation in the joints and PVC materials for the Minigun. I just took my time with it and read alot of tutoriol's. I figured that if I was gonna armor for the first time that I would do it right somewhat. Thank's to this forum for all of it's info by the way.
Click to expand...

can u point me to the joint articulation tutorials.
 
The legs is both tall and wide. Dubean claims he's 5'9, 1.9 is his ideal scale. I'm 5'10 and I used 1.9. Since I'm muscular, I find the chest piece perfect for my size. However, the twin shoulder blades on the chest piece are way too narrow. I don't think I would be able to wear a helmet with that. The only way to wear the torso is to separate the back and chest pieces. So, I am redoing the war machine with 2.0 on chest and 1.7 on shin guards. I also had a problem with thighs. The 1.9 on thighs are a little tall but too narrow. I wasted a lot of resins. I bought a Smooth Cast 300!

Since you are in the Air Force, I believe you know more electronics than I do. However I wanna give you an info for your gauntlet guns.-Try Miles tag sound modules. http://www.lasertagparts.com/mtmicro.htm. You're going to need cables,LED (Muzzle Flash), buttons, and a speaker. I know a lot of stuff about motorized face plate. For motorized mini gun, use a power drill motor. I recommend a super light weight materials especially pvc pipes. I was a terminator endoskeleton and it gave me a back problem. Make your mini gun a light weight because you are going to mount that at your back.

warmachineelite said:
Here's what I did. I did use the 1.9 scale also. The shoulder bells I went up 10% in scale to give it a more beefier look and so with the toe and heel covers too even things out with the top for even semmitry. My legs are also 1.9 in scale but they can be modified after their pepped. They can also be cut down if they are already fiberglassed with a dremel tool if their too long. May I ask how tall are you by the way? Do you mean big as in wide or as in tall?
Click to expand...
 
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Zorens said:
The legs is both tall and wide. Dubean claims he's 5'9, 1.9 is his ideal scale. I'm 5'10 and I used 1.9. Since I'm muscular, I find the chest piece perfect for my size. However, the twin shoulder blades on the chest piece are way too narrow. I don't think I would be able to wear a helmet with that. The only way to wear the torso is to separate the back and chest pieces. So, I am redoing the war machine with 2.0 on chest and 1.7 on shin guards. I also had a problem with thighs. The 1.9 on thighs are a little tall but too narrow. I wasted a lot of resins. I bought a Smooth Cast 300!

Since you are in the Air Force, I believe you know more electronics than I do. However I wanna give you an info for your gauntlet guns.-Try Miles tag sound modules. http://www.lasertagparts.com/mtmicro.htm. You're going to need cables,LED (Muzzle Flash), buttons, and a speaker. I know a lot of stuff about motorized face plate. For motorized mini gun, use a power drill motor. I recommend a super light weight materials especially pvc pipes. I was a terminator endoskeleton and it gave me a back problem. Make your mini gun a light weight because you are going to mount that at your back.
Click to expand...

Yes I can relate to the shoulder missile pods and that they are too narrow. However my helmet is casted out of a flexible plastic where I can put it on and use a chin strap to narrow the helmet to fit just perfectly. Now on to the torso: My torso chest piece is seperated from the front piece and back piece and are held together by hinges imbedded at the top so when I put it on I simply fold it open and close it shut like a clamshell all around me. Yes I agree, the thighs are way too narrow even at a 1.9 scale. I wish I can go back and widend my support braces inside before I resined them, but I don't have time so what i did was atop the inside of the thighs I cut out a U ( half moon shape ) to give me more space and not only did it do that but several things happened. It brought the legs higher up making it easier for me to bend my leg and it also made enough room for the Cod Piece. I will be adding foamies to the guns to give it more detail in the future. I used the lightest PVC's I could find for the Minigun. It weighs around 3.5 LBS. at the moment with the bullet belt and it is secured onto the back piece with metal plates and bolts. I made sure that during fiberglassing, the parts that were gonna have any bolts and articulation had to be very strong. So on those area's I doubled up on the fiberglass mat.

I think 2.0 scale would be perfect for you. Also go 2.1 on the shoulder bells to beef up the costume more. Everything is hit and miss with this. I also wasted al ot of resin. I think I bought about 15 cans of it. ( Jesus ) That's were the majority of the $$ went on this build.

Oh I'm not in the Air Force LOL... That was just something I put on the profile to go with my Forum name. Learned a lot about electronics when I was younger installing car stereo's. I'm am now an Executive Chef here in Vegas and been at it for 13 years. But yeah! Thanks for the insight with the gauntlet guns. Hopefully I can get everything done before October.

Keep me and us posted on you're build. I especially want to see how it turns out.
 
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I do have the pep files for the fingers and hands (Robo's) but I'm gonna go a different route. I'm gonna use tactical PVC gloves since they already look robotic and mod it on the insides of the palm's for the halo L.E.D's I will be putting in. i already have the toe and heel's, don't exactly know what file's they are but they look good enough. I just feel with the pepped and resin fingertips, I would loose my sense of touch which I would need to operate the control panel that I will have built into the gauntlet.

2.2 Huh? That's a 30% jump in size from the 1.9 scale. Big difference dramatically. Are you going 2.2 for the whole build? I would suggest scaling everything differently especially the legs.

I will post side pic's tomorrow. Hopefully by then I should have the eye's lit up.
 
OMG this is an insane suit. I'm currently working on the same thing using juice's files as well. I plan on mudglassing the pieces though wich I've heard and seen a little of now as being the easier way of doing it. It's much faster than fiberglassing as You dont need multiple layers and when you do you initial sanding on the ouside to dand down ridges and stuff you can sand through the paper and into the rondo so you need very little bondo on the outside in the end. I hope my suit turns out as cool as yours. So far i have the helmet done and resined. I'm hoping i can get done for Halloween this year. I have three suits to get done by then though.
 
I pepped the back piece at 2.2. The space between the two shoulder pods seems okay but would like more. However it's big. I still like 1.9 scale but the pods are too narrow. I am redoing the entire suit except the gauntlet guns and abs. I am redoing the shin guards at 1.6 or 1.7 but not at the moment. I have to finish the torso first.
 
Zorens said:
I pepped the back piece at 2.2. The space between the two shoulder pods seems okay but would like more. However it's big. I still like 1.9 scale but the pods are too narrow. I am redoing the entire suit except the gauntlet guns and abs. I am redoing the shin guards at 1.6 or 1.7 but not at the moment. I have to finish the torso first.
Click to expand...

Sorry with the late reply. I been busy trying to juggle work and going full blast on the Mark VI right now. I just started the chest and was able to also finish illuminating the eye's on the War Machine.
I ordered the red EL tape for the eyes but when it arrived it looked kinda orange so I had to search every supply and craft store in Vegas for red clear filters to overlap the EL tape. The color came out perfect.

Yeah 2.2 is big. Scaling is a hit and miss game and unfortunally a costly and time consuming one at that. I do wish my shoulder pods were wider too but if I went up in scale, my arms would flare out too much bcause the sides of the tourso would extend too far out from my sides. Wow 2.2 guns those will look like mini cannons. lol I think your shins would be perfect at 1.7 by the way.
 
WOW, amazing work! I cant wait to see pics of both of you next to each other in your costumes! The work you're doing is indeed great!!
 
warmachineelite said:
Thanks for the comments. :)

Quick Update 7/12:

Just wanted to show the eye's on the War Machine Finished..

This is with the light's OFF....

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f194/1mikeknight/War Machine Armor/Photo0053.jpg

With the lights ON......

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f194/1mikeknight/War Machine Armor/Photo0052.jpg

Pepping the Mark VI Chest

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f194/1mikeknight/War Machine Armor/Photo0057.jpg
Click to expand...

What pep did you use for the helmet? I have sharkhead's. For the lightning, I am going for a different method but it would be hard. I am going to use pepper's ghost lightning technique.
It's a hologram and you will be able to see through the led lens. The downside of that is that you have mask the leaking lights. Otherwise, the helmet will look like a jack-o-lantern. I bought the T-600 terminator helmet, and it has a hologram for the eyes. http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/5329/t600sslit.jpg
 
Zorens said:
What pep did you use for the helmet? I have sharkhead's. For the lightning, I am going for a different method but it would be hard. I am going to use pepper's ghost lightning technique.
It's a hologram and you will be able to see through the led lens. The downside of that is that you have mask the leaking lights. Otherwise, the helmet will look like a jack-o-lantern. I bought the T-600 terminator helmet, and it has a hologram for the eyes. http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/5329/t600sslit.jpg
Click to expand...

I actually bought a Iron Man helmet bcause I was having serious issues with the pep file. Did a major mod on the helmet and at the end got me to where I am now.

I am able to still see out of my helmet with 100% vision with the lights on and also have no light reflecting back to me. No problems. I find that EL Tape is so much easier and also you wont get that jack-o-lantern effect.

Nice terminator helmet by the way.
 
Amazing suit man

Is there a tutorial on where to get EL tape and how to wire it up? I'm totally electrically-challenged lol
 
Question said:
Amazing suit man

Is there a tutorial on where to get EL tape and how to wire it up? I'm totally electrically-challenged lol
Click to expand...

You can get it on Ebay with the converter. Hope this also helps...:)

ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The best way to light up the eyes..


And this is how it looks Done.

Photo0052.jpg
 
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