Resining & Fibre Glassing Tutorial/How To

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Can somebody tell me if its better to give it a clearcoat first to prevent the cardstock from warping? Or is it safe to just apply the resin?

I just hit the outside with a coat of resin. No warping here. Just finished up fiberglassing the inside tonight.
 
Awesome job-I have a question for people experienced with this:
If you make a piece (hypothetically, a gun) that is closed, so you cannot access the inside, how would you fiberglass the inside?
Is it possible to make it and fiberglass it in sections, then glue the sections together?
Thanks!
 
Ok I read trough most of the thread and noticed the same question keeps popping up. Where can I get bondo and resin. Now I don't know if some one has offered this advice but if they did sorry for the repeat. Any store that sells automotive parts will probably carry body supplies. Also look in the automotive section of you local phone book for automotive paints suppliers you will def get every thing you need there.
 
I just finished reading the rest of the thread and for those that don't want to use fiber glass you could always use rondo (bonbo and resin mix) to slush cast the inside, and it will make it just as hard as if you fiber glassed it. Look up Ben Streeper here and on Youtube for a hole line of vids explaining the proses.
 
I'm in Greece and i haven't found Fiberglass Resin.
Instead i thought of using Liquid Polyester to harden my PEP. Does anyone know if it's going to work?
 
Just as hard?

I just finished reading the rest of the thread and for those that don't want to use fiber glass you could always use rondo (bonbo and resin mix) to slush cast the inside, and it will make it just as hard as if you fiber glassed it. Look up Ben Streeper here and on Youtube for a hole line of vids explaining the proses.


Just as hard? You sure? My reading here suggested that fiberglass would actually be a bit harder...and a whole lot lighter in weight.

I've been waffling back-and-forth between going with rondo vs. fiberglass. Fortunately, I've got plenty of pep and resin work to keep me busy until I really need to make a decision. Thought I might make some pieces with each method.
 
Hey everyone I looked all around the forums and used the search bar etc but couldn't find the answer. I just had a quick question.

Can I use resin / fiberglass on the helmet I made completely out of paper? I know unless I do it right it will sag and warp. My main question is can I use it though.

Any help is appreciated.

-Chris
 
If you using 110lbs card stock you should have no problem applying resin to the outside as long as you keep the coats light. Do 3 to 4 coats on the outside then use whatever method you like to harden the inside. Check out the vids by Ben Streeper on youtube. He uses rondo on the inside instead of fiberglass. There are pros and cons to both so which you choose is up to you. The stickies are a great source of info on all this.
 
Thanks. The think is though I am using paper that is a LITTLE tougher than normal printer paper. Think it will still hold then?
 
Yep you should be fine. I recommend doing it in stages, a light coat on the top (for example on the mark VI helm do the top down to the top edge of the brim) and let dry. Then when you do the rest you will be able to put the helm down while you work. Also buy lots of brushes there are places to get cheep brushes. http://www.woodworkingparts.com is where I get mine, their chip brush in 1" is like 24 cents each. I bought 72 and had them shipped up to me in canada for $34 total. Also invest in a really good respirator with the right filters (organic fumes) and some butcher paper or wax paper for your work surface. Makes cleanup a lot easier
 
Thanks for the help. Its actually working really well. I have now put on 5 layers of resin on the top, 1 inside, and just finished my first layer of fiberglass cloth + resin.

Not bad for 2 days work :D

0909101848.jpg


That was right after i cut out the visor spot and before I put in the first layer of fiberglass.

One more layer of fiber glass after that and I can start sanding.
 
I use smooth on 320. It is a 2 part mix 1.1 plastic and i resin it twice and mix a total of 6 to 8 oz. total of the plastic and pour inside and turn to coat the entire inside.
 
So what do you do after you resin the whole outside of the helmet and is dry? do you do anything on the inside? and what size and kind of paper would be best prefered?

I use smooth on 320. It is a 2 part mix 1.1 plastic and i resin it twice and mix a total of 6 to 8 oz. total of the plastic and pour inside and turn to coat the entire inside.
 
Hey everyone I looked all around the forums and used the search bar etc but couldn't find the answer. I just had a quick question.

Can I use resin / fiberglass on the helmet I made completely out of paper? I know unless I do it right it will sag and warp. My main question is can I use it though.

Any help is appreciated.

-Chris

it depends on the paper and how light your coats are the lighter better when you do alot of coats
 
Hey, total noob here, but after reading through everything, people are saying all sorts of different things as it comes to the layering of a project.
I do Not know the proper way of making a finished product, so please dont take this picture too seriously. But you do have to take my awesome MS-Paint skills seriously lol.

Anyways, in the picture below, is this the proper way about making/layering a helmet or whatever(non-butt piece)?
Pepakura-ResinLayers.jpg

It would be a pepakura model with one layer of Resin on the outside with a layer of Bondo on the outside(everything sanded of course), and on the inside it would be a layer of resin, then the fiberglass(mat or cloth) with another layer of resin, followed lastly by a layer of Bondo filler.

Doing the project that way, is it right? If not, what is wrong? should there be more layers? As I dont mind ending up with a thicker, stronger-more sturdy finished product, I am fine with having extra layers, also with making it thicker, you dont need as thick of padding to get your desired look.
 
It would be a pepakura model with one layer of Resin on the outside with a layer of Bondo on the outside(everything sanded of course), and on the inside it would be a layer of resin, then the fiberglass(mat or cloth) with another layer of resin, followed lastly by a layer of Bondo filler..

That's the way to go:

The paper layer is your starting point. From there, apply resin on the outside (as many layers as needed), then fibreglass and resin on the inside (again, as many layers as needed) and then use body filler on the outside (yet again: as much as you need).

Since the fibreglass provides the majority of the strength, there's no need to put layers of pure resin in between the fibreglass layers. That's just wasted resin.
 
That's the way to go: The paper layer is your starting point. From there, apply resin on the outside (as many layers as needed), then fibreglass and resin on the inside (again, as many layers as needed) and then use body filler on the outside (yet again: as much as you need).
Since the fibreglass provides the majority of the strength, there's no need to put layers of pure resin in between the fibreglass layers. That's just wasted resin.

I hope this isnt a stupid question, but how will I know when I have as many layers as I need?

And so with multi layers of fiberglass, from what I understand you mean to layer the inside: Resin, Fiberglass with Resin, and then Fiberglass with Resin again until desired # of layers. Is that correct?

Now I have heard the term Rondo thrown around here and there, now if I have all the supplies as I listed before(Bondo Filler, Fiberglass Resin, and Fiberglass cloth/mat) and I also have Rondo, what would be the best way about going for an extra sturdy build?
 
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