BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Yay! So happy for your new motor!
Does it work a lot better now?
Ohhhhh yeeeaaaaahhhhh....
I'll post up a video later.
Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.
- Thread starter BuildsByBaz
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Ohhhhh yeeeaaaaahhhhh....
I'll post up a video later.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Today I re-cut another Bowden cable as upon testing, the grub screw seems to be chewing it out and it lets go after two or three actuations. Very promising actuations though...
Causality is a combination of a heavy face-plate, short hinges and a powerful geared motor. The grip on the Bowden cable is the weakest link. A Bowden cable is two tightly coiled wire tubes, one inside the other, but coiled in opposing directions. This is what makes them flexible in the linear, but have no twist. The wire coil at the end is getting unravelled by the stud.
I'm starting with a fresh new cable this time, gluing it in place with Loctite stud lock. If this doesn't work I'll escalate and sweat some solder in to each end of the cable to make the ends solid.
Only problem is now I have to wait 24 hours for the Loctite to cure fully. If I don't and it releases, I'm back to square one. I hate waiting.
It's all starting to look very technical on the inside now. I also found a nice thin speaker that when hooked up to a small external microphone, will enhance my hearing in the helmet. I could probably hook it up to my phone via Bluetooth later.
Causality is a combination of a heavy face-plate, short hinges and a powerful geared motor. The grip on the Bowden cable is the weakest link. A Bowden cable is two tightly coiled wire tubes, one inside the other, but coiled in opposing directions. This is what makes them flexible in the linear, but have no twist. The wire coil at the end is getting unravelled by the stud.
I'm starting with a fresh new cable this time, gluing it in place with Loctite stud lock. If this doesn't work I'll escalate and sweat some solder in to each end of the cable to make the ends solid.
Only problem is now I have to wait 24 hours for the Loctite to cure fully. If I don't and it releases, I'm back to square one. I hate waiting.
It's all starting to look very technical on the inside now. I also found a nice thin speaker that when hooked up to a small external microphone, will enhance my hearing in the helmet. I could probably hook it up to my phone via Bluetooth later.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Successful test run!
73:1 Gearmotor. 6V 180RPM, 4.3kg/cm
With the Bowden cable now secured with Loctite Stud Locker, the weakest link in the chain is now fixed. I still have to adjust the upstop and downstop slightly on the hinges, where the micro-switches mounted under them will signal the motor stops. There's also a loud click that needs to be eliminated by securing the worm wheel housing to the inside of the helmet. This will also take a little pull-strain off the Bowden cable, leaving it's one job as rotation.
73:1 Gearmotor. 6V 180RPM, 4.3kg/cm
With the Bowden cable now secured with Loctite Stud Locker, the weakest link in the chain is now fixed. I still have to adjust the upstop and downstop slightly on the hinges, where the micro-switches mounted under them will signal the motor stops. There's also a loud click that needs to be eliminated by securing the worm wheel housing to the inside of the helmet. This will also take a little pull-strain off the Bowden cable, leaving it's one job as rotation.
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Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
Wooow, so much egghead stuff!
But I find the video very cool
Damn, it's so cool to see your build slowly being more and more complete.
But I find the video very cool
Damn, it's so cool to see your build slowly being more and more complete.
SI3RRA 117
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S240
Amazing work I think your build is as top notch as it gets. Seen some amazing work here in this community and I think yours is top on the list!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
^^^ Thanks gang.
Update:
The recess at the back of the helmet was twice as deep as this, taking away a bit of valuable room. So I cut it out and re-welded another piece in, giving me an extra 6mm of backspace inside the helmet. This has taken a lot of pressure off my poor old melon, especially in the front of the helmet where all the tech is starting to get crowded.
Bracket for the two relays welded to the motor bracket and installed.
To activate the faceplate up and down without making obvious motions outside the suit, a microswitch and a straw, operated by a quick pout of the bottom lip. The straw can be heated and bent into exactly the right distance away from the lip so i can talk freely without accidentally activating it.
Position of microswitch wire-bracket to be glued in.
Straw-activated microswitch installed and working like a dream.
Speaker to enhance my hearing range and clarity. I will likely be putting the microphone in the top of the chest somewhere.
I'm going to use one of the two slots in the top of the helmet, above the faceplate to place another microswitch. The lever of the microswitch will poke forward so that as the faceplate comes down to fully closed position, it activates the microswitch and turns on the lights.
Update:
The recess at the back of the helmet was twice as deep as this, taking away a bit of valuable room. So I cut it out and re-welded another piece in, giving me an extra 6mm of backspace inside the helmet. This has taken a lot of pressure off my poor old melon, especially in the front of the helmet where all the tech is starting to get crowded.
Bracket for the two relays welded to the motor bracket and installed.
To activate the faceplate up and down without making obvious motions outside the suit, a microswitch and a straw, operated by a quick pout of the bottom lip. The straw can be heated and bent into exactly the right distance away from the lip so i can talk freely without accidentally activating it.
Position of microswitch wire-bracket to be glued in.
Straw-activated microswitch installed and working like a dream.
Speaker to enhance my hearing range and clarity. I will likely be putting the microphone in the top of the chest somewhere.
I'm going to use one of the two slots in the top of the helmet, above the faceplate to place another microswitch. The lever of the microswitch will poke forward so that as the faceplate comes down to fully closed position, it activates the microswitch and turns on the lights.
Lt Shiny Sides
Jr Member
Dude.. this is one gorgeous build!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
^^Thank you!
In yet another attempt to solve the inflexible gauntlets problem, I am revisiting the EVA foam option, this time using contact adhesive to wrap it in metallic stretch fabric.
I'm employing a few techniques from the steel trial I did a while back which makes the fingers much more form-fitting and even, plus leaving a little bit of foam to connect each piece at the side of each join.
I'm thinking of making the top knuckle joints out of ice-cream container plastic. It's rigid, it will fold with a sharp line and it is still flexible.
Looks pretty promising so far, comfy as heck and offers me FULL range of motion.
In yet another attempt to solve the inflexible gauntlets problem, I am revisiting the EVA foam option, this time using contact adhesive to wrap it in metallic stretch fabric.
I'm employing a few techniques from the steel trial I did a while back which makes the fingers much more form-fitting and even, plus leaving a little bit of foam to connect each piece at the side of each join.
I'm thinking of making the top knuckle joints out of ice-cream container plastic. It's rigid, it will fold with a sharp line and it is still flexible.
Looks pretty promising so far, comfy as heck and offers me FULL range of motion.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Micro switch for the lights wired up and working. Just got to fix it into the helmet slot now. Switch activates when the faceplate closes all the way.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Placing a microswitch in the power line for the eye lights, the faceplate presses down on it when it closes. All that's left on the lights is to hook up the dimmer switch that is already installed under the chin and put in a resistor for indoor/outdoor brightness settings.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks!
EVA foam gloves wrapped in metallic lycra. Seems to be working well. Thumb has full movement and the soft option will be a lot safer for the hospital kids.
The trick to this is to make sure that both surfaces are painted evenly with contact adhesive and that it is almost dry before bringing the surfaces together. Detail is surprisingly good.
Four fingers to make and wrap to get this hand done, then install lighting in the central PVC ring.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Adding technical details after seeing a few other design ideas around the net.
1 mm aluminium sheet, cut and shaped, then I used the end of a bolt to bash the details into the surface, followed by a nail punch in the centre. Buffed to a high-polish and contact adhesive to fix in the grooves.
I'm making the next glove slightly different. Instead of all the pepakura unfold patterns creating a lot of seams and glue-lines, I cut the glove in half, flattened it out then traced it onto fresh 2mm foam. The glove is now one-piece with the details glued on the outside, then wrapped in metallic lycra.
1 mm aluminium sheet, cut and shaped, then I used the end of a bolt to bash the details into the surface, followed by a nail punch in the centre. Buffed to a high-polish and contact adhesive to fix in the grooves.
I'm making the next glove slightly different. Instead of all the pepakura unfold patterns creating a lot of seams and glue-lines, I cut the glove in half, flattened it out then traced it onto fresh 2mm foam. The glove is now one-piece with the details glued on the outside, then wrapped in metallic lycra.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Contact adhesive painted on the surface of the foam and on the underside of the lycra. Allowed to dry to the touch - about 10 to 15 minutes, then pressed on, details and edges pushed in with the hard pointy end of a paintbrush. The glue must be tack dry JUST RIGHT or it won't hold the details, it will just peel off under the stretch tension.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Both palms done. Onto fingers next.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
I've been working on the hands for a few days now. Still not quite done on them, but this guy is starting to look pretty menacing with extra digits now!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Gauntlet design explained.
In order to keep all the finger pieces aligned and together while allowing for bend, I have left some of the foam material in the joint, rather than cut them apart. A quick reinforce with the stretch lycra and contact adhesive before wrapping it all up in the same lycra.
In order to keep all the finger pieces aligned and together while allowing for bend, I have left some of the foam material in the joint, rather than cut them apart. A quick reinforce with the stretch lycra and contact adhesive before wrapping it all up in the same lycra.
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