Foam Armoring

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I was going through the ads that have been posted for Black Friday and it looks like Sears is going to have similar looking pads to Harbor Freight on sale. It is going to be $9.99 for 24 square feet(six 2 foot by 2 foot pads).
 
Do you guys think that you would be able to make molds from using foam? Just abstract thinking lol

I can't image it would work well. You'd have to reinforce it so much with a hard medium that at that point you're basically pepping anyways. I mean anything is possible, but don't think anyone has yet
 
I can't image it would work well. You'd have to reinforce it so much with a hard medium that at that point you're basically pepping anyways. I mean anything is possible, but don't think anyone has yet

figured as much, well what about smoothcast 300 on the inside of pieces? im waiting for some foam to be shipped to my house, and want to keep the experimenting to a medium lol
 
Do you guys think that you would be able to make molds from using foam? Just abstract thinking lol

Well knowing very little about mold making other than what I've read, I'd say it would be possible as long as the part you were making out of foam was only going to be used as a master and no plans of being wearable, and the surface is sealed it could work, possibly fill in the insides with an expanding foam so it's one solid peice. I like where you could be going with that.
 
Last night I needed to make a miter cut on the back of a piece so I could connect two parts at an angle. I ended up using my Dremel to do it but it took about 5 minutes and created a bunch of nasty foam dust that sticks to everything and is hard to clean up. Today I went into the office and grabbed my favorite foam cutting device ever and tried it for the first time on the EVA foam mats. Here is a picture of an angled cut that took about 2 seconds and the tool that made it:

carver.jpg


Yes, that is an electric turkey carver. I have used it at the office for years to cut various pieces of random foam from packaging for shipping things. It cuts awesome! The cuts it produces are pretty clean. There is a bit of a wavy pattern in the cuts from the motion of the blades but it does not affect the shape and could be cleaned up further with sanding if necessary.

There are actually three cuts in that picture. The first one starts at the upper right of the foam and stops at that first jag you see. The second one starts where that jag is and continues on. I wanted to see how well I could continue a cut. Then the third cut is that wider one, where I just wanted to see if I could put a shallower cut into the foam.

If it had a shorter blade, I would use it to cut out parts and details too. These knives are really cheap, so I may try to hack a new, short blade for one.
 
Heat shaping isn't necassary, but it is recommended... Here's what I did with the foam, completed (well not completed, still working on it) in under a week for halloween with no heat shaping, just a lot of hot glue. It holds extremely well too with the angles and curves that I have. First time working with the foam and I must say, im impressed! It works like a dream but eats razor blades like theres no tommorow. Gonna try using a heat knife or a turkey carver (electric knife) next to see how they work... My suit that I did is completley scratch built keeping in mind that this was a rush job, could have done better (like I said, still working on it), but without further adoo my NMPD officer from halo 3 ODST... Also sorry in advance, kinda pic heavy (pics taken on halloween). :)

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Quick question - I bought some foam yesterday that's textured on both sides - probably not the best of ideas, but that was all I could find at the time - regardless, should I apply plasti-dip, would said layer be thick enough to fill in the pits/texture of the foam?
 
Quick question - I bought some foam yesterday that's textured on both sides - probably not the best of ideas, but that was all I could find at the time - regardless, should I apply plasti-dip, would said layer be thick enough to fill in the pits/texture of the foam?
With enough coats, it probably would be. I would just take a sander or Dremel and remove the texture from one/both sides. Plasti-Dip liquid(you would not want to use the spray) is still expensive vs just getting rid of the texture. The foam would be just as strong.
 
Quick question - I bought some foam yesterday that's textured on both sides - probably not the best of ideas, but that was all I could find at the time - regardless, should I apply plasti-dip, would said layer be thick enough to fill in the pits/texture of the foam?

Yes I agree with Zat german, it really isn't too much work to sand the foam down (by my experience) and will likely save you heaps. It should sand fairly easily. I've done similar jobs with just hand sandpaper. Provided your willing to take your time a bit, you should get a really nice job. (talking say an hour or two maybe, for most paperback+ sized areas, YMMV)
 
Last night I needed to make a miter cut on the back of a piece so I could connect two parts at an angle. I ended up using my Dremel to do it but it took about 5 minutes and created a bunch of nasty foam dust that sticks to everything and is hard to clean up. Today I went into the office and grabbed my favorite foam cutting device ever and tried it for the first time on the EVA foam mats. Here is a picture of an angled cut that took about 2 seconds and the tool that made it:

carver.jpg


Yes, that is an electric turkey carver. I have used it at the office for years to cut various pieces of random foam from packaging for shipping things. It cuts awesome! The cuts it produces are pretty clean. There is a bit of a wavy pattern in the cuts from the motion of the blades but it does not affect the shape and could be cleaned up further with sanding if necessary.

There are actually three cuts in that picture. The first one starts at the upper right of the foam and stops at that first jag you see. The second one starts where that jag is and continues on. I wanted to see how well I could continue a cut. Then the third cut is that wider one, where I just wanted to see if I could put a shallower cut into the foam.

If it had a shorter blade, I would use it to cut out parts and details too. These knives are really cheap, so I may try to hack a new, short blade for one.

I think you might have added a new tool to my kit bag. I got the hot knife and it was a bit of a disappointment with it melting more than it cut and leaving burn marks but his looks like it will have some promise.
 
i have just started playing with the idea of using the foam for armor and was looking to see if anyone had found a way to fill the seams to be able to make the armor appear seamless. either i missed it or it hasn't been talked about. i read on the plasti dip. but not sure if that would work or how. i have never used it. i did find a plastic filler which is sandable and remains flexable. kinda pricey though. http://www.parasolinc.com/Products.asp?ProductID=ALSIPLAST waiting to see what some come up with and thinking of trying this stuff out unless someone comes up with another alternative.
 
i have just started playing with the idea of using the foam for armor and was looking to see if anyone had found a way to fill the seams to be able to make the armor appear seamless.
If you do not go crazy with the hot glue, you just need to use super glue gel to glue the two pieces together to seal the seam. You can see an example of this in my build thread. The black in the after picture is just Sharpie, not a gap. I recommend doing this only after the armor is completely assembled. For larger, unavoidable gaps, I plan on trying out a Bounce+Foam Coat mix. Only $14 for 16 oz of Bounce and 3lbs of Foam Coat, way cheaper than that probably toxic stuff you linked. You can also mix them up to whatever consistency/strength combination you want.
 
If you do not go crazy with the hot glue, you just need to use super glue gel to glue the two pieces together to seal the seam. You can see an example of this in my build thread. The black in the after picture is just Sharpie, not a gap. I recommend doing this only after the armor is completely assembled. For larger, unavoidable gaps, I plan on trying out a Bounce+Foam Coat mix. Only $14 for 16 oz of Bounce and 3lbs of Foam Coat, way cheaper than that probably toxic stuff you linked. You can also mix them up to whatever consistency/strength combination you want.

Just wondering if you have used the Foam Coat yet and if you have any pictures of it on the foam? Also where did you get your Foam Coat from?
 
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