MKVI wip

Status
Not open for further replies.
hey guys i have my first update for all of you, its going to be a video series like ithica, because i was getting bored of just typing and putting pictures so here you go!!


all criticism is welcome as long as its constructive



costumer
 
Last edited by a moderator:
is that the mask you wore when resining or just when sanding? I just wanted to say (and others will too) that that mask isn't enough when it comes for fumes, but it's perfect for sanding. Try not to be discouraged by restarting a project, I know I've had to scrap and start over more times than I care to think about. Nice sander. Wet sanding is when you sand when you sand before the bondo is completely set. I'm not sure of the advantages or disadvantages though.
 
Wet sanding is really for the painting process to get a glass like surface. A drop of dish soap in the water and some 1800 grit wet and dry paper works wonders on your primer coat. Dip your paper every few mins and it will stop it clogging though you might need some spot putty when you can see all the tiniest imperfections. Rinse and dry before using putty, re-priming,base coating.
 
@pmw3 i only use that for sanding, and when i resin im out of my shop with 2 fans blowing at me form extension cords in the shop cuz i dont have a respirator.

@active84u ohh i see now, but i dont think i can do wet sanding with my sander because its a hook and loop disk so im not sure if that would mess it up or not
 
hey guys got 3/4 through pepping the MKVI shin by robogenesis

shin.jpg
 
Wet sanding primer is a no no in regular cases. I use to do body work on cars and we would never wet sand the primer, primer acts like a sponge and absorbs water thus trapping water next to the steel. HOWEVER in our application it's ok to wet sand primer as we have a layer of resin between the paper and the water. Still unless you are going to mold a part wet sanding primer is a waist of time, if you have it smooth just using regular sand paper the paint will come out just fine. Wet sanding is used after the layers of paint are applied to remove orange peel (orange peel is when you look at the part in the light and the surface will have tiny bumps like the peel of an orange), and make the surface mirror smooth. You then apply your layers of clear coat and buff that to a smooth mirror shin.

Great work as well.

Edit I also forgot to add you can NOT use that sander for wet sanding it will short out. Besides wet sanding should be done by hand as it is a delicate process, sand to much in one area and you'll remove the paint to the primer and have to start over. Also a Bondo tip: keep your layers thing and you won't have to do as much sanding, you can add more bondo as you go along. Makes for less wear and tear on the sander.
 
started on the helmet for this build, its not MKVI though see if you can guess what it is
mouth.jpg




monster.jpg

what gets me through pepping for 6 hours straight
 
you may want to scale it up a bit, it looks like it may turn out a little on the small side, of course it would be easier to tell if you had more of the top built, it may push the front of the crown out a bit when the top is complete, but from experiance at that size the two long spikes on each side when finished will shove into the sides of your head, and it looks like the visor part may be right on your eyes, but I can't say for sure without looking, I scaled mine at a height of 356mm but you may want to be between 346mm and 356mm, I have a big head so I scaled mine at 356 look at my build in my signature to get an idea of the size of the helmet to the armor
 
thanks for the info, im going to drop the busa idea, cuz its 24 pages, and i dont have much ink/cardstock to spare so i dont know what helmet, i know i dont want to do a regular MKVI....maybe recon by bekalor
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top