Acetone and mold releaser?

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I've heard of people using silicone caulk for making molds. Someone mentioned it on another topic, but I've never seen it done. It's relatively cheap too. (4 bucks a tube at my local walmart)
 
lionheart912 said:
I've heard of people using silicone caulk for making molds. Someone mentioned it on another topic, but I've never seen it done. It's relatively cheap too. (4 bucks a tube at my local walmart)

There's a thread about ghetto casting over on the RPF, I've never done it myself but it looks pretty good if you've got no other option.
 
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Belakor said:
There's a thread about ghetto casting over on the RPF, I've never done it myself but it looks pretty good if you've got no other option.
Lol "Ghetto Casting". Thanks for posting that though, I'm gonna have to try it.
 
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Me too LOL. Ghetto Casting is hilarious. Sounds like it may work. Silicone with a fiberglass jacket. You just may not be able to get as many parts out of the mold as you would with a standard RTV silicone.
 
Caulk casting works, but you need to do a bit of experimenting first to get the water ratio correct. Bathroom caulk uses water to cure, Some people use acrylic paint to get the stuff to kick. The finished mould has a very low tear strength and limited life compared to moulding silicones. Because the product is designed to be a strong adhiesive, you want to make sure you've got a decent mould release sorted before you potentially ruin and encase your part in a lump of stinky goo. The thing to bear in mind with this stuff is, If it worked really well, people wouldnnt nother buying silicone moulding rubber....yet they still do, I think there is a lesson in that. Again, why bother ruining a sculpt you've spent a long time on, just to ruin it because you're too cheap to use proper products.
 
I'd have to agree with Bishop on the uselessness of this styrofoam plastic material... I just don't see it being a good mold-making material, but I do see the appeal... readily available and cheap materials for one... but it's never going to yield a detailed casting even if you get over the undercut hurdle, and figure out a way to keep your casting resin from sticking to the melted styrene. The results aren't going to look nearly as good as helmets casted from silicone or polyester rubber molds.

So maybe stick to making a helmet for yourself before trying to go right into production from pepakura. You're going to leam innumerable things about the process along the way, and then maybe you can consider making copies of your helmet.

Also remember that this is an expensive hobby to get into, but you don't have to buy everything you need at once. Buy only what you need for the next step of the process, and once you finish a step you might be able to afford the next one.

I have a full suit and several weapons I've made myself that cost thousands of dollars to make but I've never spent more than $150 at once..

Just take it in steps.
 
"its kinda the point.... its making plastic from styro and acetone. plz read before posting next time.

the acetone evaporates from the dence styro plastc so its no trouble at all. read the post about it " --Durlaburban

Generally, when giving advice, I make it a point to err on the safe side since it is not my personal problem. Do you really want to give someone the advice of "...its no trouble at all." when you personally have not tried this or are not completely aware of all the facts? Now it may or may not work but it is likely that this would cause problems with his plastic master. He was conerned with ruining it and was asking advice therefore it is considerate to let him know of dangers involved with doing this.

Just my two cents....
 
Vaseline will work for this. If using a plaster mold.

The thing is, Foam does age and will eventually become a soft and and easily breakable. I wouldnt recommend using the ACETONE STYROFOAM method. I'd suggest going for the real deal- RESIN...

I'd suggest reading books about it, kids.
 
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