Domed Visor Pep

[JediStumpy]

Hey great work! Glad you keep on going with this project! I would really like a painted gold pull when you finish this out so I can put in my helm!

Keep it up!!!

 

[GremlinLord]

We'll once I get a good pull I can start experimenting with the proper amount of chrome to get the perfect look and still be see through. That part will be fairly easy but getting a good clear pull is really kicking my arse atm. I'm starting to think I need to rethink my buck. It makes good pulls with HIPS but HIPS isn't a lens so all those little marks add up and make it foggy before I start to spray. I'm gona have to look around for something with similar bends or get one made and polish it to a mirror. The polishing part is fairly easy but getting one cnc'd or finding something close enough to modify is gona be a challenge. Anyone got any ideas? I can't really test my coating until I get a good pull plus with winter on it's way vacuum forming is getting harder and harder. But anyway this is like he holy grail of these forums and if it was easy someone would have done it already.

 

[GremlinLord]

We'll I had a great idea when thinking about how to combat the fogging issue that is ever present even on my failed pulls. I'm gonna try to make a buck out of metal. Before everyone starts to think I'm crazy, (a distinct possibility) I think that this is the best way to get a clear distortion free lens short of injection molding. I'm going to use 16 ga mild steel and dome it to the correct size as the visor (easy part) then planish out the bumps to a mirror finish (hard part). I will probably make it in 2 parts for 2 reasons. 1, much easier to make a simple dome and polish it and cut the details in a second dome. 2, the 2 parts will have a small space that I can pull a hard vacuum through to get really deep detail that currently eludes me (still won't be sharp due to vacuum forming). The reason for this rethink is the fact that no matter what I do I can't get a perfect visor from plaster or dental plaster (god knows I tried). The only problem this kind of metal working is probably not practiced by many unless they have bodywork experience or enjoy making real plate armor. I'm not sure if I should keep this thread going as it amounts to very little till I get a finished product out. And yes I will probably make extras for our fellow members (no promises yet as this is still in the experimental stage) so keep an eye open for updates. If I make a new progress thread I'll add a link to this thread (for those who are following it). Untill then the quest for the perfect buck continues (after which the quest for the perfect amount of chrome continues.... maybe I am crazy :eek )

 

[JediStumpy]

Keep going!!! We got your back!

 

[Iceman065]

You might wanna try using a thinner gauge metal. 18 gauge might work out a bit better, 20 is to thin and 16 seems a bit thick. Since it's thinner you wont have to work as hard to get the details in it that you want. If it becomes work hardened then its not going to have much, if any give to it in terms of flex.



But I don't know how much you have worked with steel before either.



Another option might be to do a wax or use Sulpher Free clay to do the visor in. Both can be smoothed out by using heat or with the clay since its oil based you can brush on some mineral spirits (can't remember if its mineral spirits or paint thinner) to smooth the surface out.



Either way, the last thing I can suggest is prolly the easiest. Flat black spay paint. Do about 30 or so light coats on what you want to cast then give it a light sand with some high grit sand paper if need be on any imperfections that still exist. The paint will fill in the gaps and tiny holes really well and it will help to smooth out the surface.

 

[GremlinLord]

The idea is to use 2 separate pieces so detail won;t be an issue. The bottom piece needs to be mirror smooth and the top piece will have all the depressions cut into it. Doing so will allow extremely sharp details. The added effect is the air gap that will exist between the 2 layers allowing a vacuum to pull the details tight. As far as gauge is concerned I wanted 14ga to make the details pop more, allowing my to use thicker PETG but 16ga is all I could find. When your swinging a 8lbs sledge hammer there isn't much you can't shape in a hurry. Since I've gone from Pepakura to plaster to water-putty to steel I'll probably make another topic and a new work log. Just need to get ahead and get some work done first.

You might wanna try using a thinner gauge metal. 18 gauge might work out a bit better, 20 is to thin and 16 seems a bit thick. Since it's thinner you wont have to work as hard to get the details in it that you want. If it becomes work hardened then its not going to have much, if any give to it in terms of flex.



But I don't know how much you have worked with steel before either.



Another option might be to do a wax or use Sulpher Free clay to do the visor in. Both can be smoothed out by using heat or with the clay since its oil based you can brush on some mineral spirits (can't remember if its mineral spirits or paint thinner) to smooth the surface out.



Either way, the last thing I can suggest is prolly the easiest. Flat black spay paint. Do about 30 or so light coats on what you want to cast then give it a light sand with some high grit sand paper if need be on any imperfections that still exist. The paint will fill in the gaps and tiny holes really well and it will help to smooth out the surface.