First attempt at 3D printing an EOD helmet (probably going to be picture heavy)

Fearose

New Member
Which version of EOD are you going for? 3, Reach, 4, 5?

I'm interested in EOD but can't for the life of me pick between them, though 3 does hold a special place for me.
We went with Reach, mostly because it's what we could find file wise. I don't have much time to model things at the moment. I have a three year old and my baby is almost a year old. Hard to find much time.
 

Chooka

Member
I mean that’s hella nice. But 79 hours? Yikes. Like Turbo mentioned, you can save a lot of time with upping the layer height and losing some infil. I print all mine at 0.18 (not sure if my printer rounds to .2 due to the 0.04 increment levels creality uses) and 15% infil. I make up for strength with 3-4 walls depending on the location of the piece.
If your worried about strength, do a resin slush after :)
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I mean that’s hella nice. But 79 hours? Yikes. Like Turbo mentioned, you can save a lot of time with upping the layer height and losing some infil. I print all mine at 0.18 (not sure if my printer rounds to .2 due to the 0.04 increment levels creality uses) and 15% infil. I make up for strength with 3-4 walls depending on the location of the piece.
If your worried about strength, do a resin slush after :)
For my buckets and armour pieces I go with
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 24% infill (my magic number that prevents pillowing on most prints, yours may be different depending on cooling)
  • 3 shells
  • Resin internal slush
  • Epoxy resin external coat
Things like a Reach era Army Trooper can be printed out in two halves at about 25-30 each side.
 

Fearose

New Member
I mean that’s hella nice. But 79 hours? Yikes. Like Turbo mentioned, you can save a lot of time with upping the layer height and losing some infil. I print all mine at 0.18 (not sure if my printer rounds to .2 due to the 0.04 increment levels creality uses) and 15% infil. I make up for strength with 3-4 walls depending on the location of the piece.
If your worried about strength, do a resin slush after :)
Thank you for the suggestion! Still in the process of tweaking everything to get it to work and print faster at the same time
 

Fearose

New Member
For my buckets and armour pieces I go with
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 24% infill (my magic number that prevents pillowing on most prints, yours may be different depending on cooling)
  • 3 shells
  • Resin internal slush
  • Epoxy resin external coat
Things like a Reach era Army Trooper can be printed out in two halves at about 25-30 each side.
Any help I can get the better! I do try and use any and all suggestions I get.
 

Fearose

New Member
For my buckets and armour pieces I go with
  • 0.2mm layer height
  • 24% infill (my magic number that prevents pillowing on most prints, yours may be different depending on cooling)
  • 3 shells
  • Resin internal slush
  • Epoxy resin external coat
Things like a Reach era Army Trooper can be printed out in two halves at about 25-30 each side.
I'm not trying to be spammy with my quoting here, but what type of resins do you use. The thought crossed my mind watching people that use XTC3D.
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
I'm not trying to be spammy with my quoting here, but what type of resins do you use. The thought crossed my mind watching people that use XTC3D.
SmoothCast 65D or SmoothCast 300 depending on what's on hand slushed on the inside and then XTC3D on the outside. No worries about being spammy, questions like this are what this forum is all about.
 

Chooka

Member
Yeah kinda, slushing is usually just pouring some resin on the inside of your piece, then rolling the piece around to make sure it gets in all the corners in a relatively even layer.

Out of curiosity, what speed are you printing at? ##mm/s
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Awesome. I worry about violating community guidelines lol. Thank you for the help. By slushing I assume you mean the same way as casting out of a mold?
Chooka nailed it. For a more visual learner, here's an awesome example.

Out of curiosity, what speed are you printing at? ##mm/s
Also a very important question. Acceleration and jerk settings are also important. A CR-10 should be able to chug along easily at 50-60mm/s no problem at all using PLA/PLA+ and if you brace your z-axis it can rock those speeds and produce good prints.

Community guidelines are pretty much as easy as "Don't be a jerk, have fun, don't be a jerk".
 

Fearose

New Member
Yeah kinda, slushing is usually just pouring some resin on the inside of your piece, then rolling the piece around to make sure it gets in all the corners in a relatively even layer.

Out of curiosity, what speed are you printing at? ##mm/s
Perfect. I'm familiar with the technique. I'm not so sure about speed. Still somewhat of a newbie on 3d printing
 

Fearose

New Member
Chooka nailed it. For a more visual learner, here's an awesome example.


Also a very important question. Acceleration and jerk settings are also important. A CR-10 should be able to chug along easily at 50-60mm/s no problem at all using PLA/PLA+ and if you brace your z-axis it can rock those speeds and produce good prints.

Community guidelines are pretty much as easy as "Don't be a jerk, have fun, don't be a jerk".
That video is how I learned sloshing lol. I just wanted to make sure that's what you meant. What do you mean by bracing? Also, thanks to both you and Chooka. Helped me out a bunch
 

TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
That video is how I learned sloshing lol. I just wanted to make sure that's what you meant. What do you mean by bracing? Also, thanks to both you and Chooka. Helped me out a bunch
1569045780369.png


Xerxes the new one on the left is still being tweaked and doesn't have a support brace, Old Greg on the right has a more rigid frame which is good for tall prints and faster print speeds.
 

Chooka

Member
I see. That's amazing. Something I'd need to model or readily available files?
Thingiverse is your friend for these things. The CR-10 has tons of modification .STLs on there. Just type CR-10 in the search bar and loads of helpful (and some not so helpful lol) mods will show up. It can get out of hand though too haha.
Which slicer are you using? I use Cura, and it has TONS of settings you can tweak. But it also has generic settings for things.
Just be careful with Cura. Some updates are not the best, and can ruin a print if you aren’t careful. Some settings it has are not always compatible with all printers either. I had a Z-hop issue on my Ender 3 that was fixed by changing a small setting.
I usually print at 50-60mms like Turbo mentioned.
Filament Friday YouTube channel is pretty helpful for a lot of printer settings.
 

Fearose

New Member
Thingiverse is your friend for these things. The CR-10 has tons of modification .STLs on there. Just type CR-10 in the search bar and loads of helpful (and some not so helpful lol) mods will show up. It can get out of hand though too haha.
Which slicer are you using? I use Cura, and it has TONS of settings you can tweak. But it also has generic settings for things.
Just be careful with Cura. Some updates are not the best, and can ruin a print if you aren’t careful. Some settings it has are not always compatible with all printers either. I had a Z-hop issue on my Ender 3 that was fixed by changing a small setting.
I usually print at 50-60mms like Turbo mentioned.
Filament Friday YouTube channel is pretty helpful for a lot of printer settings.
I'm using Simplify3d. A youtuber I watch called Bigbabyprops recommended it in his Star Wars clone trooper build videos. It's a paid software but so far it's been worth it. Sorry guys, I work nights on 12 hour shifts. I'm asleep most of the day.
 

Fearose

New Member
Turned up the speed and having some slippage issues. No build updates until I can get it sorted out. Any suggestions?
51126.jpeg

My buddy took the picture so sorry for quality.
 

Coreforge

New Member
You could try to give the motors more power. If they don't get too warm, you just have to turn the small potentiometer on the stepper driver a little bit. If it's the right direction, the current for the motors should be higher and therefore their torque. You can also try and lubricate the Z axis spindle, if you have one. It might create too much friction and make the motor loosing steps, which will offset your position. You can also lower your speeds and see if that helps.
 
Top