Opinion on helmet design [First build ever!]

[AGENTREGENT]

So I have a helmet and suit design for my first suit. It's a Mk. VI Master Chief Low definition build.

http://i.imgur.com/EPx5hfP.jpg

This is a picture of the design Planning on flick in a paintbrush with blood colored paint/fake blood onto the suit, adding char marks, slashes, cuts in under suit with wounds underneath, chips in armor, wear and tear, bullet marks, and the coup de grâce, the cracked visor, which will look kind of like master chiefs right side of the visor in the Halo 5 trailer, and a big crack/crevice on the left, where me eye will be.

Keep in mind this is my first build ever. Haven't done foam before, or any other pep. I've pepped all my pieces except for the chest and the helmet. Anyways, what do you guys think? Too difficult for a complete n00b? Or do you think I could pull it off? If you respond, thank you!

 

[soucekaboose]

I think that is a fantastic idea! Totally doable, too.

just a thought I had for the crack/smashed visor....pre-cut the points of the hole in the visor and then hit it in the middle with a hammer for a controlled crack and it'll look legit.

out of curiosity, are you choosing to do low def simply because this is your first suit? (I'm currently working on a Halo Wars MK IV suit all HD)

 

[AGENTREGENT]

Like, where? at the corners on the visor smash?

Yes, I am doing low def for that sole purpose. I thought I would give up on the suit if I did high def and got too discouraged. Also, I didn't want to make something that'd take too long, because I'm still growing and don't want to grasp the fruit of my labor, and then try to put it on," What. The. F***!" I'll be doing more builds in the future, though. Thanks for your input!

Edit: You're sure this isn't too difficult for a complete noob at brush/paint techniques, bond, etc.?

 

[Fudz073]

I think your build is totally plausible. My recomendation, make the helmet as if it were brand new, then add the scarring, damage, wear and tear, etc. Your biggest hurdle, i believe, is creating the damaged visor without compromising it's structural integrity. However, I'm sure there is more than a few members out there who have completed a version similar to your goals successfully.

Just be patient and take your time. Your first build will always take the longest and you'll learn the most. With some persistence I'm sure you can recreate exactly what your aiming for. Looking forward to see the build unfold!

73
Fudz

 

[AGENTREGENT]

I was told to add the bullet marks and scars during the bond stage while it's still wet. Is that not a good idea?

 

[colbs]

Damage is an after market effect so it's logical to make them after completion

 

[NoMaybeYes]

I like your idea a lot. I was thinking about adding some cracks to my own visor but without actually marking up the visor (Like stickers). But the idea of a broken helmet give the spartan's a sort of "vulnerability" and not as invincible as they seem.

 

[soucekaboose]

I thought the sketch you posted was a good location for a visor smash.

I am still a pep noob myself, but anything is doable with the right determination and dedication

 

[AGENTREGENT]

Damage is an after market effect so it's logical to make them after completion

Makes sense, ok thanks for your input! Wait, when painting the bullet pocks, I've seen people paint their helmet silver, then the other paint. Iss that only when you make damage before?

 

[AGENTREGENT]

I thought the sketch you posted was a good location for a visor smash.

I am still a pep noob myself, but anything is doable with the right determination and dedication

Thanks I appreciate that. Good luck with your future pepping!

 

[AGENTREGENT]

I like your idea a lot. I was thinking about adding some cracks to my own visor but without actually marking up the visor (Like stickers). But the idea of a broken helmet give the spartan's a sort of "vulnerability" and not as invincible as they seem.

Thanks! I was kinda hoping for that effect. The lone survivor who saw all his men and women slaughtered while fighting for his life, as well. I got some inspiration from the first scene in Reach [http://sean360h.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/untitled.png]

 

[EVAkura]

The idea is a really cool one, and I am sure you can do it with some good ol' determination. I would start off by pepping the helmet and resining the outside. You and I are in the same boat when it comes to progressing further than that because of the temperature and humidity outside will keep us from rondo'ing until warmer temps come our way. Unless you have a nice warm garage that is I don't, so I am stuck using non-fume epoxy indoors, but that only gets me so far in my build. Don't concern yourself too much about the battle damage quite yet. The time to start thinking about that is when your are getting close to the final stages.

Quick answers to your questions: Yes, sculpting the bondo when it is in its "gummy" state is a perfect time to add a portion of your desired battle damage. Some of the damage is better off waiting until the bondo has cured.

Painting silver first just around where there is battle damage is fairly necessary. It gives the illusion that the helmet is made of metal. However, the reason why some people paint their helmet/armor items silver first is because they are using that metallic paint as a base coat in conjunction with the next colored layer of paint. If done correctly, the metallic paint gives the next layer, generally a semi-transparent color, a metallic depth (I don't really know how to describe it, but hopefully you get my drift).

 

[AGENTREGENT]

The idea is a really cool one, and I am sure you can do it with some good ol' determination. I would start off by pepping the helmet and resining the outside. You and I are in the same boat when it comes to progressing further than that because of the temperature and humidity outside will keep us from rondo'ing until warmer temps come our way. Unless you have a nice warm garage that is I don't, so I am stuck using non-fume epoxy indoors, but that only gets me so far in my build. Don't concern yourself too much about the battle damage quite yet. The time to start thinking about that is when your are getting close to the final stages.

Quick answers to your questions: Yes, sculpting the bondo when it is in its "gummy" state is a perfect time to add a portion of your desired battle damage. Some of the damage is better off waiting until the bondo has cured.

Painting silver first just around where there is battle damage is fairly necessary. It gives the illusion that the helmet is made of metal. However, the reason why some people paint their helmet/armor items silver first is because they are using that metallic paint as a base coat in conjunction with the next colored layer of paint. If done correctly, the metallic paint gives the next layer, generally a semi-transparent color, a metallic depth (I don't really know how to describe it, but hopefully you get my drift).

I'm not using the rondo method, decided to go with good ol' fashioned fiber glass cloth. When you say some of the damage is better off after the bond has cured, which damage are you talking about? I was going to paint the damaged spots silver or a charred black, depending on the type of damage in the area, but I catch your drift. Also, will I have to use more bond than usual for deeper cuts/holes/slashes?

 

[EVAkura]

Slushcasting with rondo is almost necessary. You do that in conjunction with fiberglass. I have seen way too many people on here skip the rondo part and go right to fiberglassing and they almost always regret it. The reason you rondo the inside first is because the fiberglass has a real hard time conforming to the angles and compound joints and will almost always leave air pockets. When you rondo the inside of a helmet, it lessens the angles and gives you a much better surface to lay your fiberglass on.

The depth of your bondo will be dependent on the depth of your damage. The damage that you will want the bondo cured for is anything that will require a power tool to create. Example would be a grinding wheel or dremel. Those two tools are great for that slash effect. Bullet marks can be started when the bondo is in the gummy phase, and fine tuned after it is cured.

 

[AGENTREGENT]

Slushcasting with rondo is almost necessary. You do that in conjunction with fiberglass. I have seen way too many people on here skip the rondo part and go right to fiberglassing and they almost always regret it. The reason you rondo the inside first is because the fiberglass has a real hard time conforming to the angles and compound joints and will almost always leave air pockets. When you rondo the inside of a helmet, it lessens the angles and gives you a much better surface to lay your fiberglass on.

The depth of your bondo will be dependent on the depth of your damage. The damage that you will want the bondo cured for is anything that will require a power tool to create. Example would be a grinding wheel or dremel. Those two tools are great for that slash effect. Bullet marks can be started when the bondo is in the gummy phase, and fine tuned after it is cured.

So I rondo the inside, then do fiberglass cloth? Do I do that for all pieces? Because I was thinking about maybe using expanding foam (not definitely) for hollow parts on some pieces.

 

[EVAkura]

Yes, rondo first, then fiberglass cloth. As far as all pieces go, that is up to you. I, personally avoid expanding foam, especially on hollow pieces because it is A. really hard to say how much you will need without using too little (will leave gaps) or too much (will bulge your project) and B. does not give you any sculpting/sanding depth below your projects surface without having to backfill (major pain in the butt!). When I built my Rogue chest, there were small, thin, hollow pieces that I simply filled with epoxy. This gave them the strength they needed as well as the ability to sand/sculpt below the original depth which is necessary when rounding edges of said hollow piece. I guess it all depends on the size of the hollow piece too. On larger pieces where filling it would be overkill, I have seen people epoxy the outside of the pep, then drill a hole and pour the rondo slushcast mix inside and simply roll the project around until all the inside surfaces were nicely coated.

 

[AGENTREGENT]

Yes, rondo first, then fiberglass cloth. As far as all pieces go, that is up to you. I, personally avoid expanding foam, especially on hollow pieces because it is A. really hard to say how much you will need without using too little (will leave gaps) or too much (will bulge your project) and B. does not give you any sculpting/sanding depth below your projects surface without having to backfill (major pain in the butt!). When I built my Rogue chest, there were small, thin, hollow pieces that I simply filled with epoxy. This gave them the strength they needed as well as the ability to sand/sculpt below the original depth which is necessary when rounding edges of said hollow piece. I guess it all depends on the size of the hollow piece too. On larger pieces where filling it would be overkill, I have seen people epoxy the outside of the pep, then drill a hole and pour the rondo slushcast mix inside and simply roll the project around until all the inside surfaces were nicely coated.

I've heard about people doing that for their weapons, which I will probably do, but I was talking about the inside area of the shoulders, the little pods on the sides of the cod piece, that horn in the forearm,the pods on the back of the chest piece? if it over expands, cut it down flat and paint it black?

 

[EVAkura]

You could try that, it would be a learning experience at the least