Painting Foam

ZiggyGrimm

Member
It depends entirely on how long you want the suit and paint job to last. If you are just using it for one con as a throw-away, then yeah, Leak Seal is the way to go.

For long term use, I find Plastidip always ends up peeling. Any bumps or rubs at cons I found to scuff my paint which starts it peeling. It is also hell if you kneel (carpet burn makes it peel, same with dirt from the ground). Then you have a choice of peeling the whole darn Plastidip job off (not fun), or trying to paint over it which makes for ugly lines.

I'm a sucker for a good old fashioned coat of Bondo and some fiberglass mat over the foam. If you are looking to have your suit last forever, it makes it more durable, and then you can just directly spray paint it (fine sand first... it makes the paint stick better). Sure, it takes more sanding and costs a bit more in materials... but if you are building a suit you want to last a very long time... invest. Plus, when you have to repaint, it is cheaper to buy spray paint than more Plastidip.
 

TrUeKiLa

New Member
Thank you for the advice will apply that to my build when I get there I'm only waiting on the Foam now. Should be here in a few weeks and I can get to work.
 

PlanetAlexander

Active Member
You can always put a layer (or a few) of clear coat/varnish on it. Helps make the paint resistant to light and it does reduce the chance of paint peeling or scratching off. This is quite important when weathering as if you water down paints, the water/solvent can rip up the paint below.
 

TrUeKiLa

New Member
I'd put the clear coat after I paint though right? So it would be in order to seal the foam, paint the foam, then clear coat or varnish it?
 

Chief1343

Member
A little experience ive had in the past with spraypaint like the rustoleum brand it that it cracks if you flex the foam too much even with plasti dip, but ive seen that the most flexible spray paint would have to be the krylon fusion paints since they flex well with plasti dip and wont crack unless their bent more than the amount it would be forced to do so.
 

master_colt_117

Well-Known Member
Yes definitely use Rustoleum Leak Seal. It's an amazing product and much stronger than plasti-dip. I get the large cans in the USA for about $9 a can. The best part about leak seal is it is sandable. I completely sand all my armor pieces smooth before painting to get a nice smooth surface and also it promotes better paint adhesion as well. Good luck!
 

master_colt_117

Well-Known Member
Also, just realized this is a paint thread. Spray paint out of cans is not reliable. It does not flex and will crack under flexing and pressing a thumb into it. For base coats on foam, I use Sherwin William's interior/exterior latex enamel house paint. It will literally flex as far as the foam can and will not peel or crack. From there I'm a huge fan of tamiya acrylic paints for details. They also flex very well. They're very good quality and have amazing coverage. They also work in the airbrush well.. for black brown washes, I use cheap craft store paint like deco art as they are more transparent and leave good grimy looks to the base coats. Good luck!
 

TrUeKiLa

New Member
Thank you guys for all the info would you send down every piece of foam though? Like as I piece it together sand it then paint it?
 

Harri51

RMO
405th Regiment Officer
If you are looking at a long last paint job that will not bubble or peel it would be advised. Seeing as the majority of the 405th rattle cans or airbrushes, an open-pored surface is an excellent ideal situation for the paint to adhere to and give you a long-lasting effect. Unless you are Benton188 and hand paints his suit with acrylic. Which mind you; his paint jobs do last from doing this too.

I also use a Krylon satin clear coat on my suits to give them a waterproof finish and so all the details show in photos. Flat looks accurate in person but in photos, it washes the details out and gloss can reflect a flash or not give the end result you may want.

Just some food for thought my friend.
 

TrUeKiLa

New Member
If you are looking at a long last paint job that will not bubble or peel it would be advised. Seeing as the majority of the 405th rattle cans or airbrushes, an open-pored surface is an excellent ideal situation for the paint to adhere to and give you a long-lasting effect. Unless you are Benton188 and hand paints his suit with acrylic. Which mind you; his paint jobs do last from doing this too.

I also use a Krylon satin clear coat on my suits to give them a waterproof finish and so all the details show in photos. Flat looks accurate in person but in photos, it washes the details out and gloss can reflect a flash or not give the end result you may want.

Just some food for thought my friend.


I will take a look at that option but right now I'm still waiting for my foam to come in so I can get to work
 
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