Silicone Caulk Molding?

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I hope this is plausible, it will really help us prop makers that want to take our hobby a step forward but do not have the money to. :)
 
There's a six page thread about ghetto molding over on the RPF that might have some more useful information:
Link
 
alot of that was above my skill/knowledge level to understand, but if you decide to use this method....PLEASE make a tut.
 
It's entirely plausible. In fact, this is what a lot of art professor's I know use to introduce students to rubber molds. But it's usually a small mold, due to the fact that it takes a lot of effort to make it work on a larger scale. (see the 'cons' in the link you posted.)
 
Yep, I'll confirm this as well, but I won't recommend it. The silicones commonly sold as caulking probably don't stand up to the abuse that actual two part molding silicones do. There could be shrinkage, heat curing (losing flexibility due to the heat generated by resin) and other issues.

I do remember people talking about this at the sculpture foundry though.. seems pretty universal that it can be done, but it's a do-it-at-your-own-risk situation. You're using products for uses they weren't intended for, so any risk is assumed by the user.

So take caution before using it to cast any one-of a kind, rare, or valuable items..

Nice find though.. I had completely forgotten about this.
 
It comes down to how much you value your own work really. Is your work worth the price of moulding? If not, why bother? A good cheap product for making waste moulds is plaster.
 
I've worked this the stuff before. It can tear easy.
If you where very careful when ever you handled it might be ok.
small parts would work a lot better; parts you poor and let sit (cure). There are also different types out there as well, so my guess the basic stuff would work on small things.
 
I just tried this on a hot wheels car, the results (IMHO) were pretty good. Probably not as good as the real deal but it works. I might do it again with something a bit larger scale and take pictures if I can find the time.
 
Spartan 051 said:
this would be fun to try on a hand plate

Test 1-A. Subject Mark IV Mjolnir Handplate.

Test Result. Plausible. Needs Refining.

Test 1-B to begin immediately.

Now for pics
2589076047_a49fab2f6f.jpg

2589076189_0e6a5262c1.jpg

2589911550_3dc8fbb7d1.jpg
 
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hmmm, if there were some additive to make the caulk less viscious so that it would pick up detailing better, that might improve the quality of the mold.

But with this product being at end state, that'd probably be like saying "if there were an additive for cured silicone rubber to make it more elastic..."
 
if there were some additive to make the caulk less viscious so that it would pick up detailing better, that might improve the quality of the mold.

People have been doing this for a while.

Caulk Moulds
 
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Yodajammies said:
pffft. shows how much I know.
Brilliant find NZ. 10/10

You can also get a more "liquid" form of silicone at a auto parts store. It comes in a tube and is used to fix windshield leaks. It flows into the cracks of the seal around the glass.
It can easily be brushed on first to get all the detail. Then brush on the thick stuff after it dries.

Silicone safe for fish tanks works great for molds.
 
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I think the real question here is silicone caulking more economical that molding silicone per weight and unit price?

I think you'd pay almost $10 per tube for good silicone caulking.. It seems to me that for that price per unit you could probably buy the correct type of molding silicone for your project. What seems like a shortcut here might be somewhat more expensive.

A cost analysis here would be the way to compare.. I'm betting on the molding silicone being just slightly cheaper than the national chain bought silicone caulking per weight. I'd expect it to be pretty close at least .
 
Sean Bradley said:
I think the real question here is silicone caulking more economical that molding silicone per weight and unit price?

I think you'd pay almost $10 per tube for good silicone caulking.. It seems to me that for that price per unit you could probably buy the correct type of molding silicone for your project. What seems like a shortcut here might be somewhat more expensive.

A cost analysis here would be the way to compare.. I'm betting on the molding silicone being just slightly cheaper than the national chain bought silicone caulking per weight. I'd expect it to be pretty close at least .

Its worth it if you're making something small and don't have the need for buckets of mold material :D
 
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Sean Bradley said:
I think the real question here is silicone caulking more economical that molding silicone per weight and unit price?

I think you'd pay almost $10 per tube for good silicone caulking.. It seems to me that for that price per unit you could probably buy the correct type of molding silicone for your project. What seems like a shortcut here might be somewhat more expensive.

A cost analysis here would be the way to compare.. I'm betting on the molding silicone being just slightly cheaper than the national chain bought silicone caulking per weight. I'd expect it to be pretty close at least .


Its more of an experiment to try it out, I'm not looking for any kind of solution, just trying things out and showing for information.
 
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A cost analysis here would be the way to compare.. I'm betting on the molding silicone being just slightly cheaper than the national chain bought silicone caulking per weight. I'd expect it to be pretty close at least .

Truth

I think when you compare the benefits of using the real deal, any small difference in cost would be negligible. In NZ if you're buying more than about 4kg, the cost per KG is around $28 anyway which is almost vcomparible to the cost of bathroom glue here which is about 12$ for 500-750 grams. Personally, I value my work enough not to cover it in bathroom adhesive sealer.
 
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