darkesword2020
Well-Known Member
Ventilation can be a major problem in these helmets. The design doesn't allow for air to flow freely, causing you to get hotter quicker. Most helmets have plenty of room on the inside to install a couple of fans.
Cheap Version:
Go to Radio Shack and purchase two 12V CPU fans ((#273-240), two Push On/Push Off Soft-Feel Switches (#275-1565), not momentary switches, two 9V batteries and a package of Heavy Duty 9V Battery Snap Connectors. (#270-324). The fan is actually a 12 volt but a 9 volt battery will make the fan turn. It's better than putting a bunch of AA's in the back of the helmet!
Rigging the switch is easy. The fan comes with a black and red wire and the battery adapters have a black and red wire, too. Solder the two black wires together and solder the two red wires onto the switch, one on each prong (pictured above).
If you don't want to bother with the switch, you can connect the battery adapter to the fan without it. You'll have to connect the battery each time you want to use the fan but you won't have to worry with attaching the switch.
After you've assembled the fan and battery, use tape to temporarily secure the cooling system inside the helmet. Play around with the fan placement so ensure you get the maximum benefit from the cool air it creates. Once you're happy with the fan location, use hot glue or hot caulk to secure it in place.
More expensive version:
While you're at Radio Shack, pick up a package of 9V Battery Holders (270-326B), 5 feet of Split-Loom Tubing (278-1624A) and two Snap-On Ferrite Data-Line Filters (273-105C).
Use the same instructions above for making the fan. Hold off on soldiering the connections for now.
Glue the battery holders in the back of the helmet.
You'll need to open the data line filters and remove the magnet. Drill a hole in the black casing so you can insert the switch into it. Solder the connections as explained above AFTER you insert the switch and secure it in place with the provided nut. Note: you can probably find a cheaper way to hold the switch in place. I was a little rushed for time and this worked well for me.
Finally, use the split loom tubing to hide the wires.
Now I know this isn't a Master Chief Helmet, but I figure it will work the same with a Master Chief helmet as a Master Chief helmet is the same size as a Stormtrooper helmet. You just have to experiment with space and find the way you want the split loom tubing to fit inside your helmet.
Cheap Version:
Go to Radio Shack and purchase two 12V CPU fans ((#273-240), two Push On/Push Off Soft-Feel Switches (#275-1565), not momentary switches, two 9V batteries and a package of Heavy Duty 9V Battery Snap Connectors. (#270-324). The fan is actually a 12 volt but a 9 volt battery will make the fan turn. It's better than putting a bunch of AA's in the back of the helmet!
Rigging the switch is easy. The fan comes with a black and red wire and the battery adapters have a black and red wire, too. Solder the two black wires together and solder the two red wires onto the switch, one on each prong (pictured above).
If you don't want to bother with the switch, you can connect the battery adapter to the fan without it. You'll have to connect the battery each time you want to use the fan but you won't have to worry with attaching the switch.
After you've assembled the fan and battery, use tape to temporarily secure the cooling system inside the helmet. Play around with the fan placement so ensure you get the maximum benefit from the cool air it creates. Once you're happy with the fan location, use hot glue or hot caulk to secure it in place.
More expensive version:
While you're at Radio Shack, pick up a package of 9V Battery Holders (270-326B), 5 feet of Split-Loom Tubing (278-1624A) and two Snap-On Ferrite Data-Line Filters (273-105C).
Use the same instructions above for making the fan. Hold off on soldiering the connections for now.
Glue the battery holders in the back of the helmet.
You'll need to open the data line filters and remove the magnet. Drill a hole in the black casing so you can insert the switch into it. Solder the connections as explained above AFTER you insert the switch and secure it in place with the provided nut. Note: you can probably find a cheaper way to hold the switch in place. I was a little rushed for time and this worked well for me.
Finally, use the split loom tubing to hide the wires.
Now I know this isn't a Master Chief Helmet, but I figure it will work the same with a Master Chief helmet as a Master Chief helmet is the same size as a Stormtrooper helmet. You just have to experiment with space and find the way you want the split loom tubing to fit inside your helmet.