Which Smooth-On Product To Use?

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Man, I feel like an idiot. I thought it too good to be true but... Whatever. Now, final questin (BW; thanks MC hammer for the vid) can I brush smooth-on on the outside in place of fiberglass resin? to give it a thin coat, that makes it firm and that. Again, fiberglass resin is totally taboo, I'm lucky she didn;t confiscate my bondo (hehehe... she didn't read the can. :) )
 
Boba Fett said:
Man, I feel like an idiot. I thought it too good to be true but... Whatever. Now, final questin (BW; thanks MC hammer for the vid) can I brush smooth-on on the outside in place of fiberglass resin? to give it a thin coat, that makes it firm and that. Again, fiberglass resin is totally taboo, I'm lucky she didn;t confiscate my bondo (hehehe... she didn't read the can. :) )



i dido this. it seems we could just get rid of the resin all together and coat everything with plastic! Also to add to a statement/question before. how much bondo is actually needed if you have the plastic underneath. could you just sand the rough parts down to the plastic? or is that what everyone is saying?
 
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Bondo is for shaping the pep. Pep deals only in series of lines, so the surfaces are not perfectly curved. You CAN do a lot of sanding, but it's easier to use bondo to smooth it out.
 
Boba Fett said:
Bondo is for shaping the pep. Pep deals only in series of lines, so the surfaces are not perfectly curved. You CAN do a lot of sanding, but it's easier to use bondo to smooth it out.

got it. my only concern is the bondo i used (the same one most people do) was really thick and i dont know how to thin it out.. make it more liquid like. because trying to spread that around is a pain in the butt!
 
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ratchet_fan said:
got it. my only concern is the bondo i used (the same one most people do) was really thick and i dont know how to thin it out.. make it more liquid like. because trying to spread that around is a pain in the butt!



Fiberglassing resin. You'll never get out of that loop. ;) It's called rondo, watch been streeper's videos. He explains it all. Essentially, about 2 parts bondo, 1 part resin. both hardeners. Makes it run, so do it in smal sections.
 
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I strongly suggest this stuff, Oomoo 30 if you want to make a mold. Has a higher shore value meaning it will be stiffer and will warp less, Basically to do a glove mold, you will want also a silicone thickener to make it brush-able, and even then you'll want to build up at least 2 inches of rubber thick else it WILL be flimsy, it's that or after coating the piece in rubber, paper mache to give it rigidity.
 
Boba Fett said:
Man, I feel like an idiot. I thought it too good to be true but... Whatever. Now, final questin (BW; thanks MC hammer for the vid) can I brush smooth-on on the outside in place of fiberglass resin? to give it a thin coat, that makes it firm and that. Again, fiberglass resin is totally taboo, I'm lucky she didn;t confiscate my bondo (hehehe... she didn't read the can. :) )

all the pictures i posted i did not use resin to harden the helm as long as you go in small batches your helm shouldnt warp. An you dont "paint" on the resin you just dump it in the inside an slush it around for a while
 
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Spartan 051 said:
all the pictures i posted i did not use resin to harden the helm as long as you go in small batches your helm shouldnt warp. An you dont "paint" on the resin you just dump it in the inside an slush it around for a while



Yeah, but I mean for painting on a coat of smooth-cast on the outside in the stead of resin. The bondo to come should stick better to that anyway. And yeah, for the inside slush-cast it.
 
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Boba Fett said:
Fiberglassing resin. You'll never get out of that loop. ;) It's called rondo, watch been streeper's videos. He explains it all. Essentially, about 2 parts bondo, 1 part resin. both hardeners. Makes it run, so do it in smal sections.

sweet! i'll try and actually find the videos
 
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MW Immortalking said:
How much Smoothcast does it take for a whole suit?

depends on what you buy. like i said earlier, i use smoothcast 320 and foamit 6 or 4 (not sure) one gallon of the 320 and the trial of the foam makes about half a suit or more depending on how thick u decide on making it
 
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To everyone talking about using Bondo on on your Smooth-cast reinforced plastics, be careful with this. Bondo is a polyester resin, and Smoothcast is a polyurethane. These two chemicals don't chemically bond to each other, so whatever bond is made is mechanical (i.e. Not nearly as strong as Bondo on Fiberglass). This means that it is possible (though unlikely) for your Bondo to delaminate from your helmet. So, in regards to Boba Fett's idea of place Smoothcast on the outside to help the Bondo stick, this is actually a bad idea. You're better off putting Bondo straight onto the paper, priming before you Bondo, or even just sanding down the Smoothcast.
 
Spartan 051 said:
all the pictures i posted i did not use resin to harden the helm as long as you go in small batches your helm shouldnt warp. An you dont "paint" on the resin you just dump it in the inside an slush it around for a while



Sorry for the late post, I can't believe I didn't see this before, and I apologize for bringing it up again if it's dead... I've been reading this other thread right here that's recommending SmoothCast 321 to brush on the outside. But you're saying you rotocast the RAW PAPER PEP with 300?!?! Without strengthening the outside first?!?! So you use small batches and just do it area by area, or do you spread it out as much as you can? How small is a "small batch?" Do you have any problem with seam leakage or anything? If so, I assume you'd just cut it away like flashing, yes? You appear to be getting really good results, so I'll take your word for it.
 
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ShadoKat said:
Sorry for the late post, I can't believe I didn't see this before, and I apologize for bringing it up again if it's dead... I've been reading this other thread right here that's recommending SmoothCast 321 to brush on the outside. But you're saying you rotocast the RAW PAPER PEP with 300?!?! Without strengthening the outside first?!?! So you use small batches and just do it area by area, or do you spread it out as much as you can? How small is a "small batch?" Do you have any problem with seam leakage or anything? If so, I assume you'd just cut it away like flashing, yes? You appear to be getting really good results, so I'll take your word for it.

yes, raw rotocast. and as far as small batches, you really dont need to. about 2-3 ounces puts a thin but sturdy layer on the entire helmet. how you futher strengthen is your decision. but straight smooth cast gets expensive
 
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Fox w said:
I strongly suggest this stuff, Oomoo 30 if you want to make a mold. Has a higher shore value meaning it will be stiffer and will warp less, Basically to do a glove mold, you will want also a silicone thickener to make it brush-able, and even then you'll want to build up at least 2 inches of rubber thick else it WILL be flimsy, it's that or after coating the piece in rubber, paper mache to give it rigidity.

Would not suggest OOMOO for this application... OOMOO is a heavily filled tin silicone which REALLY limits it's tear strength... great for one piece flat molds, not that great for more complex molds. Rebound or Mold Max STROKE are our two brushable silicones... much better than trying to adapt a pourable into a brushable... and you only need to build the rubber to 3/8 of an inch with a support shell...
 
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Alex spartan177 said:
Well, I think it will work for hard objects

but like in the description says, It wont work with clay



BTW

its not 15 gallons for 160, its only 1 so it will be pretty much the same as rebound

Mold Star 15 won't work with Sulfur-based clay is all... like Roma Plastelina... the majority of clays do not contain sulfur... it is a great general mold making material for hard and soft objects
 
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Oomoo is great for one off molds to cast a few pieces to make a gang mold or to just get a tooling prototype. But the tear strength is low and wouldn't be great for a piece with a lot of detail or for multiple castings. Mold star is pretty good but you would have to make a case mold or block mold and that can get expensive. Rebound 25 is one of my favorites since it brush-able and has a pretty high tear strength. If you were going to do a block,cavity or case mold I would suggest Mold-max 30 or or the Mold Star.
 
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