During the Break - Iron man Mk3 from top down (Helmet first)
- Thread starter Deadalus Thorn
- Start date
- Status
Click on their name, go to their profile, then select Private Message. edit: (this works if they are ONLINE)
Not sure if there is another way, or how to if they are offline...
Deadalus Thorn
Member
Close, Siborg and I are Kiwi's (New Zealand)
well technically we are both from the UK, but have both lived in NZ so long that we classify ourselves as Kiwi.
Yep! the dremels are cheap bunnings one, and they are great.
considering we both had proper dremel brand ones and they died a death, we decided to try a cheaper option and they have lasted better than we ever could have hoped for.....
not bad for $40.00 NZD (about $25USD( with about 60 bits and a flexicord and stand.
Deadalus Thorn
Member
Mate, just flick me a mail
deadalus_thorn@hotmail.com
if you don't hear from me straight away, dont stress......
i will be busy for a few days with a new baby due any minute.
ronlan1984
New Member
was wondering how you got it so smooth. was it made from a pep and did you Bondo or rondo the outside and if so how did you apply it to the helmet. also I have a dremel but am not sure how to make the groves strait, what tools did you use to cut out the face plate or were they made separately.
Deadalus Thorn
Member
It was pep, Dungs V1 to be exact.
Normal FG matt and resin on the inside, surface tissue cut to pattern on the outside.
Bondo....Yes
we use small amounts at a time and build up gradually as opposed to trying to cram as much on as possible as so many people try to do........, like make-up
"less is more"If you pile it on you are just creating work for yourself.
Good things take time so build up slowly and evenly
Thicker isnt always better......
Rondo....for an outer coat.......Hell no, don't use the stuff, its messy and in some respects a lazy way of doing things with little control over application. (no offense to those that swear by it)
Just think its another way of creating work for yourself.
Internally for quicker re-inforcing, maybe, but generlly, NO
smooth.......well not being big headed mate, but Siborg and I are both experienced with this sort of stuff.
As I have mentioned Si and I are both tradesman in the painting/panel repair/prep field (well I'm an ex tradesman, but its like rideing a bike, you never forget)
here is a brief tutorial I made for a guy on SIWDAT it is a copy and paste of what I wrote in reply to a similar question about bondo/detail and correct sandpaper
Sandpaper:
That depends on the phase your at.
if you still doing bondo and shaping use a low grit, we use 60grit, then 120, and then 240.
Dont focus in one spot too long, as this is called finger f*#%&ng
If your at a phase that you are happy with the bondo shape and detail then use a higher grits, starting with 600, 800 and then a primer coat, with a guide coat and do what is called "feathering out".
Guide Coat
A guide coat is where you do a coat of primer (normally grey), then with a different colour (normally black) you do a dust coat holding the can/spraygun furrher away.
Then wet sand it with 1000-1200 to find your high and low spots. this is Feathering out
DO NOT sand back down to bondo, once you see that the guide coat is being sanded back you know that you can stop.
Low spots will still have guide coat in them, and this is good as it outlines area's that you want to fix up.
if you have any major noticable low spots or pinholes use knifing putty to fix (Knifing putty is like premixed bondo in a can) or you can use a small skim of bondo
Rinse and repeat until you are happy, that you have a smooth even surface that feels and looks even.
after that do your final primer coat.
You can do a further wet sand with 1800+ if you really want, which is called "de-nibbing" but for primer, I wouldnt bother, and there is very little point.
Save de-nibbing for your top colour coats, it takes out the minor dust specks.
Tips:
Use a little bit of dish washing liquid with warm water for your wetsanding bucket.
Your fingertips are more sensative that you may realize, you can pick up imperfections in your wet sand phase by running your fingers over area's.
Added bonus:
Now you can go fix dents in cars toohehehehe
except dont use low grit sandpaper on your car panels lol
samuel murray
Member
I used to have the exact same one. It was a pretty good deal especially with all the stuff it came with. But mine broke a few months later and when I took it back they were all out so I had to get a dremel (An extra 80 flipping bucks!)
Congrats on the immenent birth of your new baby mate.
I almost moved to NZ when I was a kid but my mother bottled it at the airport 5 mins before boarding the plane.
So now Im here stuck in the UK.
Both me and the Mrs are looking how we can both move to either NZ or Ozz so far no joy.
ronlan1984
New Member
Wow Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it.
Deadalus Thorn
Member
what circles would you be refering too?
Deadalus Thorn
Member
wow that is really nice! I was wondering how you made these lines?
A steady hand and a wider bit, helps if you scribe the line first.
DAYUDOCAMA
New Member
Please dont do double post
Use advanced edit
Quick edit doesnt work
Use advanced edit
Quick edit doesnt work
ronlan1984
New Member
was wondering if you put a hinge on the helmet for the face and what kind of hinge you are using mine seems to have issues opening
tompkins420
Jr Member
i dont mean to ask the same question as everyone else in here but where do i find the link to purchase a cast ?
the helmet looks amazing
the helmet looks amazing
Deadalus Thorn
Member
where is the double post?
the first is in response to p0g1's question about perfect circles, the 2nd is in regard to Ironmang's question and Image.
Please go and troll someone else's thread and get you facts correct
He's talking about these lines right here. How did you get it so nice and curvy and clean? Did you use a dremel?
Deadalus Thorn
Member
He's talking about these lines right here. How did you get it so nice and curvy and clean? Did you use a dremel?
They were measured, drawn and scribed first, the scribe line had to be deep enough to hold/guide a fine tipped dremel bit, then it was dremel time.
The final tidy was done with a needle file and a small corner of Sandpaper.
patience and a steady hand help
They were measured, drawn and scribed first, the scribe line had to be deep enough to hold/guide a fine tipped dremel bit, then it was dremel time.
The final tidy was done with a needle file and a small corner of Sandpaper.
patience and a steady hand help
Thanks for that explanation. I'm a newbie, so I only understand half of that explanation lol. Can you go into a little more detail on how you "scribed" it, or more about the general process? I'm not sure I understand what that means. Also is that dremel bit included when you bought it? I'm about to buy a dremel for the first time this weekend.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
