Foam Armoring
- Thread starter BenStreeper
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Ghost of Donut
New Member
After reading this whole thread, I am really leaning toward goin foam. My only question is how noticeable is it to have foam armor and a fiberglassed and bondo helmet?
You won't see much difference if you have a clean-cut foam and if the foam is properly sealed. However, I would prefer the helmet use the traditional method and the rest of the armor is done in foam. The helmet needs to be hardened and sturdy since the helmet does not require joint and movement. If you use an HD helmet, all the details are already on the helmet. With foam, you need to think a few steps in advance on how to put in the tiny details.
Cereal Killl3r
Well-Known Member
I've seen some pretty fantastic looking projects that were done with foam. I just find there is something missing with the softer feel of the foam. Dont know... Maybe its all in my head and just perfer the hard armor. But the only way to know is to build a foam piece and find out for sure.
CBrando89
New Member
This seems really cool and inexpensive. I have a few questions though. 1. How do you cut the foam and make it look neat? 2. Can I bypass hardening the foam on the outside and skip right to painting (I am prohibited from using things like Fiberglass, or things that are liquid and messy [no puns intended]). 3. How would you make, and could you make, helmets out of foam, aswell? And finally 4. Would there be a problem with foam and installing LEDs (for example, will the foam heat and bend due to the heat given off by the LED?)?
I tried out fiberglassing today, and sadly it went horribly wrong. Foam armour does seem like the excellent alternative to pep files and all those other steps included with that.
I tried out fiberglassing today, and sadly it went horribly wrong. Foam armour does seem like the excellent alternative to pep files and all those other steps included with that.
Hey Master Chief117 you got to watch the dates on the last post before you post this one was from feb so you might get a slap on the hand for necro posting....no biggie to me. So to answer your questions,
1. You need a good sharp blade to cut the foam cleanly,xactos are great cause you can quickly change the blade. When I built my kids kat costume I kept a peace of scrap handy and tried the blade before I made my cut. If it cut clean I carried on if cit cut ruff I would re-sharpen the blade or change it altogether. To sharpen just get a small nail file and run the blade down the file like a barber does with a straight razor and leather strap. You can save money on blades this way.
2.You can bypass the hardening and go right to paint but just remember the foam will soak up the paint so you will need to apply extra coats to cover it so buy an extra can or two of paint just in case.
3.You can make helms out of foam, it's a little more difficult but it can be done. You need to plan out your cuts and you can still use the pep for templates. Just try to join as many paper peaces together before you cut the foam so you have less joints to glue.
4. There should be no problem with LEDs in foam as they do not get hot enough to do any damage. Just make sure your wiring it away from your body and covered well in case you sweat in the suit that way you don't get a shock.
Fiber glass is hard to get use to as it needs the right temp to harden and needs to be mixed right to use. But if you want to try it again I can help you as I've done automotive body work for a little over 20yrs so I'm use to using it. Hope this helps and if you need any more help don't be afraid to ask.
1. You need a good sharp blade to cut the foam cleanly,xactos are great cause you can quickly change the blade. When I built my kids kat costume I kept a peace of scrap handy and tried the blade before I made my cut. If it cut clean I carried on if cit cut ruff I would re-sharpen the blade or change it altogether. To sharpen just get a small nail file and run the blade down the file like a barber does with a straight razor and leather strap. You can save money on blades this way.
2.You can bypass the hardening and go right to paint but just remember the foam will soak up the paint so you will need to apply extra coats to cover it so buy an extra can or two of paint just in case.
3.You can make helms out of foam, it's a little more difficult but it can be done. You need to plan out your cuts and you can still use the pep for templates. Just try to join as many paper peaces together before you cut the foam so you have less joints to glue.
4. There should be no problem with LEDs in foam as they do not get hot enough to do any damage. Just make sure your wiring it away from your body and covered well in case you sweat in the suit that way you don't get a shock.
Fiber glass is hard to get use to as it needs the right temp to harden and needs to be mixed right to use. But if you want to try it again I can help you as I've done automotive body work for a little over 20yrs so I'm use to using it. Hope this helps and if you need any more help don't be afraid to ask.
Zat German
Member
He could also just read the thread as every one of his questions is answered in it.
drack
Well-Known Member
I just started with foam A wek ago, LOVE this stuff. Doing my legs in it, But One question I havent seen thoroughly answered was this: How do you smooth out seems, I've read this whole thread but All Anyone says is use plasti-dip. Any other ways? I'd like to get this key topic more explored....
Zat German
Member
The best way to fill seams is not to have them in the first place. You can get very sharp edges in the foam by just cutting a valley out in the back of it and gluing it. You have to be careful not to cut too deep or the foam tears when you close the valley. Look up how Gamemaster did his Mark VI out of foam. He has some good tutorial videos too.
Kodiak 117
New Member
Hello Ben, Thanks for posting these very informative Video's....very well done..
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
I have made a couple of pep armor suits before and now want to make a foam one. How reliable/ durable is it for continuous wear? Will it fall apart? Is hot glue strong enough? etc, etc....
drack
Well-Known Member
Once 2 pieces of foam are hot glued together it is actually difficult to pull them apart. Normaly it's the foam that rips and not the glue that pulls off when you try. As for durability the only little problems I have had are painted sharp edges get a bit of wear but that's if you are abusing your armour. Just walking around in it won't do any damaging. Although I didn't clear coat those parts so I guess it's my own fault
If you need any advice on foam building don't hesitate to ask.
Tom.
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
That's awesome.. I really want to try this.
Alzarahn
New Member
I'm a total newb here, but I have a background in making foam LARP weapons that I think can give some insight. I'm going to walk through a normal weapon build, hopefully some of this can be extrapolated and applied to foam armor techniques.
When I build LARP weapons, I generally start with a Microcell Foam like you see here, which is formed around a 505. or .524 kitespar/fiberglass rod for the weapon's shaft (not relevant to armor here).
You can form the basic foam shape with a band saw. Since I don't own a bandsaw, I often resort to using just the blade of a hacksaw, which works just as well if you've got a steady hand and good eyes.
If I want to indent into the foam, I use either a dremel router attachment (very good results) or a wood-burning tool for simple indented lines (once again need a steady hand and good eyes.)
If I want to build up upon the foam with raised details, I tend to use the cheap funfoam sheets you can find at Walmart or any craft store. (these will be thin sheets of multi-color foam). You can also find big 2 yard rolls of the stuff at JoAnn's Fabrics if I'm not mistaken. (good for coating a larger surface with no join seams.) This kind of thin foam I tend to cut with scissors or a razor, both work equally well.
When I need to connect pieces of foam, I use DAP Weldwood OCC, affectionately known to me and some LARPer craftsmen as "Ogre Snot". It produces some pretty nasty fumes so a respirator, or at least working in a well-ventilated area is recommended. This stuff will stink up your workshop so it's best used outside with a box fan. The reason DAP is used is because these weapons are full-contact and hot glue just wouldn't hold up to that kind of abuse. The beauty of DAP as a foam glue is that it's relatively cheap, it expands just enough to fill gaps, and when it dries it's pretty much waterproof. I apply DAP with a spare trangle scrap of foam, apply very thin but fully to both edges you intend to join. Within a minute or two the DAP will become tacky, at which point you can join the foam edges. The edges will stay together and you can continue working, but it takes about 12 hours at least before the DAP dries completely. The result is a bond that's nearly unbreakable, the foam is in fact weaker than the DAPed seams (like a weld).
If you do it right the joins should be seamless, but in case they are not I've discovered that Tulip brand Puffy Paints fill in these wider gaps pretty well. You can then use very fine sanding to make everything smooth.
When all the initial design is set in foam (be sure the foam is as smooth as possible, all embossing details like battle damage included), I spray on PlastiDip spray as a first coat, then use the paint-on Plastidip as a second coat. The reasoning behind this is the spray-on PD goes on very very thin and doesn't soak as deeply into the foam. It's like a primer to prevent the thicker PD paint from it's normal habit of soaking as deeply into the foam, which is just wasteful. It also makes the PD Paint results smoother. This should form a tough but flexible rubber skin over the foam.
Next step is painting. I use acrylic paints because they have the best results I've seen for flexible PD surfaces. Spraypaints tend to flake and chip off, and enamel/oil paints tend to react badly with certain kinds of sealers. (had a problem with Krylon Clear Coat)
After that's finished, you're nearly at the finish line. You just need to seal in the paint to prevent water damage and paint runs. I've seen some LARP crafters swear by Krylon Clear Coat, but I've had problems with that stuff flaking off. I personally prefer Thru The Roof sealant, although it is tough to find in stores (I have to internet order the stuff.) The reason being that TTR will form a flexible rubberized clear coat, arguably stronger than the PD itself. This is a clear roof sealant, when you open the can you'll notice it's very very thick, almost taffy-like. You need to mix it with Mineral Oil to make it similar to pancake batter in consistency, no math here just keep mixing in a little bit of the mineral oil at a time and stirring vigorously until it feels right. This stuff paints on, I tend to use a thick 2" paintbrush (just makes sure your brush isn't losing hairs before painting, it'll end up embedded in the clear coat) but you can try other ways to apply it. With the Thru The Roof coat wet, WYSIWYG and the finished result looks very similar to the wet results so make sure you get it the way you want. A word of warning, you'll want to apply and move on, spend too much time brushing it in one area and it will glob up on itself and look bad. This is something you'll want to test on a scrap piece a few times just to be sure you get the results you want BEFORE applying it to your armor. I honestly get the best results with the stuff when I nearly drybrush it on, a very thin coat will do. The thicker the coat, the more glossy it will appear so keep that in mind. The mineral oil mix will make this stuff take forever to dry, I like to give it 48 hours, but you may need even longer if you go for a thicker coat. You'll know when it's finished because it stays very tacky to the touch while it's still drying. Make sure not to leave it in a dusty area, or anywhere near pet hair.
That's pretty much my method. Hopefully this read, while off-topic for Armor, might help with the Foam side of the construction.
When I build LARP weapons, I generally start with a Microcell Foam like you see here, which is formed around a 505. or .524 kitespar/fiberglass rod for the weapon's shaft (not relevant to armor here).
You can form the basic foam shape with a band saw. Since I don't own a bandsaw, I often resort to using just the blade of a hacksaw, which works just as well if you've got a steady hand and good eyes.
If I want to indent into the foam, I use either a dremel router attachment (very good results) or a wood-burning tool for simple indented lines (once again need a steady hand and good eyes.)
If I want to build up upon the foam with raised details, I tend to use the cheap funfoam sheets you can find at Walmart or any craft store. (these will be thin sheets of multi-color foam). You can also find big 2 yard rolls of the stuff at JoAnn's Fabrics if I'm not mistaken. (good for coating a larger surface with no join seams.) This kind of thin foam I tend to cut with scissors or a razor, both work equally well.
When I need to connect pieces of foam, I use DAP Weldwood OCC, affectionately known to me and some LARPer craftsmen as "Ogre Snot". It produces some pretty nasty fumes so a respirator, or at least working in a well-ventilated area is recommended. This stuff will stink up your workshop so it's best used outside with a box fan. The reason DAP is used is because these weapons are full-contact and hot glue just wouldn't hold up to that kind of abuse. The beauty of DAP as a foam glue is that it's relatively cheap, it expands just enough to fill gaps, and when it dries it's pretty much waterproof. I apply DAP with a spare trangle scrap of foam, apply very thin but fully to both edges you intend to join. Within a minute or two the DAP will become tacky, at which point you can join the foam edges. The edges will stay together and you can continue working, but it takes about 12 hours at least before the DAP dries completely. The result is a bond that's nearly unbreakable, the foam is in fact weaker than the DAPed seams (like a weld).
If you do it right the joins should be seamless, but in case they are not I've discovered that Tulip brand Puffy Paints fill in these wider gaps pretty well. You can then use very fine sanding to make everything smooth.
When all the initial design is set in foam (be sure the foam is as smooth as possible, all embossing details like battle damage included), I spray on PlastiDip spray as a first coat, then use the paint-on Plastidip as a second coat. The reasoning behind this is the spray-on PD goes on very very thin and doesn't soak as deeply into the foam. It's like a primer to prevent the thicker PD paint from it's normal habit of soaking as deeply into the foam, which is just wasteful. It also makes the PD Paint results smoother. This should form a tough but flexible rubber skin over the foam.
Next step is painting. I use acrylic paints because they have the best results I've seen for flexible PD surfaces. Spraypaints tend to flake and chip off, and enamel/oil paints tend to react badly with certain kinds of sealers. (had a problem with Krylon Clear Coat)
After that's finished, you're nearly at the finish line. You just need to seal in the paint to prevent water damage and paint runs. I've seen some LARP crafters swear by Krylon Clear Coat, but I've had problems with that stuff flaking off. I personally prefer Thru The Roof sealant, although it is tough to find in stores (I have to internet order the stuff.) The reason being that TTR will form a flexible rubberized clear coat, arguably stronger than the PD itself. This is a clear roof sealant, when you open the can you'll notice it's very very thick, almost taffy-like. You need to mix it with Mineral Oil to make it similar to pancake batter in consistency, no math here just keep mixing in a little bit of the mineral oil at a time and stirring vigorously until it feels right. This stuff paints on, I tend to use a thick 2" paintbrush (just makes sure your brush isn't losing hairs before painting, it'll end up embedded in the clear coat) but you can try other ways to apply it. With the Thru The Roof coat wet, WYSIWYG and the finished result looks very similar to the wet results so make sure you get it the way you want. A word of warning, you'll want to apply and move on, spend too much time brushing it in one area and it will glob up on itself and look bad. This is something you'll want to test on a scrap piece a few times just to be sure you get the results you want BEFORE applying it to your armor. I honestly get the best results with the stuff when I nearly drybrush it on, a very thin coat will do. The thicker the coat, the more glossy it will appear so keep that in mind. The mineral oil mix will make this stuff take forever to dry, I like to give it 48 hours, but you may need even longer if you go for a thicker coat. You'll know when it's finished because it stays very tacky to the touch while it's still drying. Make sure not to leave it in a dusty area, or anywhere near pet hair.
That's pretty much my method. Hopefully this read, while off-topic for Armor, might help with the Foam side of the construction.
Has anyone tried using a Krylon Paint/Primer base then a coat of Spray PlatiDip and then a second coat of Krylon Paint/Primer? The reason i'm thinking of this is because on my last build I just used a Krylon Paint/Primer for my base coat and found that the foam creased easily, but if a plastidip coat was applied afterwords it would strengthen the foam as well as seal any left over gaps and pin holes that the paint/primer didnt fill, also allowing for less wrinkles due to the plastidip. I like Krylon as a base paint due to the fact that its made for plastics, seems to stay on foam rather nicely as well.
Definately agree with the previous post regarding hot glue. The foam will give way before the glue. If you are going to wear your armor for extended time periods, expect to have minor repairs after each outing. The best part is, your armor will continue to get more refined the more you wear it. As for the paint wear, I tend to like it that way on my N7 armor because it gives it a more realistic look.
Michael Caboose
New Member
I just wanted to post that this tutorial has really changed my outlook on foam armor. I will definitely be using this method in the future. Thanks everyone for the info.
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