snypernight
Jr Member
ok im just wondering, meaning i will probably not do this, but would a reinforced (with either kevlar or rip-stop) carbon fiber (hardened with somesorta resin) shell armor work in airsoft or paintball combat situations?
"Help!" for: Electronics
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L
Late to the meeting
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wrong thread wrong forum
pappaprime518
New Member
for the Tacpad, i always thot attaching an iphone or ipod touch somehow without ruiining it would make a good one, just sayin.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
I like placing the fan near the mouth piece. It is personal preference. Move the fan around to a location where it creates air flow in the helmet and is comfortable.
L
Late to the meeting
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@ pappaprime518 I've been thinking the same thing to. we all now how apple is slowly taking over the world just like microsoft and they are now running a close race ( microsoft has XBOX suck it apple!) they might actually come out with a product that makes it so you can mount an I Phone on your wrist or fore arm... it wouldn't suprise me... it wouln't suprise me at all...
Why not mold a vehicle mount into the armor. Then the ipod, i phone, etc, would juct clip into place. See link;
http://www.proclipusa.com/home/home.aspx?afid=42&admkt=d02b361c
http://www.proclipusa.com/home/home.aspx?afid=42&admkt=d02b361c
ShinigamiNG
Active Member
Alright guys, I've got a couple of questions. I've done a little bit of wiring before, not much at all though mind you. And I've learned a literal TON by reading through this thread.
But anyways, what I was wondering is, when you are wiring your LED's in a parallel circuit, how exactly does your connection look? Like, where it splits into 2,3,4 or however many LED/Resistor sets you have. Do you have one wire, and just solder 2-4 wires directly to that one? Or is there a special way of doing this?
Also, lets says for kicks and giggles that I wanted to wire my entire suit off of a single power supply. Lets say I wanted LED's in various places on the suit, including the legs, arms, torso, and helmet, and at least a couple of fans. I know it would be a lot of work to set up a wiring system in my undersuit, most likely with quick-connects and such, placed throughout the suit. I imagine it would be best to keep everything close to the same voltage requirements, at least for simplicity. But how would I go about limiting the amount of power? Lots of resistors everywhere? I'm guessing its probably just much simpler to have separate power supplies distributed throughout the armor huh? I'm sure there is some type of electrical device out there though right? Where I can link up lots of batteries for long term power, and just limit the amount of voltage that comes out into my system right?
And on second thought, I doubt I would include the helmet in that setup. It would be easier for it to have its own power supply, that way its not a hassle each time I want to take it off to worry about the quick-connects.
Thanks in advance! Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
But anyways, what I was wondering is, when you are wiring your LED's in a parallel circuit, how exactly does your connection look? Like, where it splits into 2,3,4 or however many LED/Resistor sets you have. Do you have one wire, and just solder 2-4 wires directly to that one? Or is there a special way of doing this?
Also, lets says for kicks and giggles that I wanted to wire my entire suit off of a single power supply. Lets say I wanted LED's in various places on the suit, including the legs, arms, torso, and helmet, and at least a couple of fans. I know it would be a lot of work to set up a wiring system in my undersuit, most likely with quick-connects and such, placed throughout the suit. I imagine it would be best to keep everything close to the same voltage requirements, at least for simplicity. But how would I go about limiting the amount of power? Lots of resistors everywhere? I'm guessing its probably just much simpler to have separate power supplies distributed throughout the armor huh? I'm sure there is some type of electrical device out there though right? Where I can link up lots of batteries for long term power, and just limit the amount of voltage that comes out into my system right?
And on second thought, I doubt I would include the helmet in that setup. It would be easier for it to have its own power supply, that way its not a hassle each time I want to take it off to worry about the quick-connects.
Thanks in advance! Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Because of the way each piece of the suit is attached to your person, it is easier that each piece has it's own power supply.
However, you can have a single power supply for an entire suit. I like to wire in the resisters right next to the LED, that way I don't accidentally miss any.
100_6185.JPG by thatdecade, on Flickr
However, you can have a single power supply for an entire suit. I like to wire in the resisters right next to the LED, that way I don't accidentally miss any.
100_6185.JPG by thatdecade, on Flickr
ShinigamiNG
Active Member
Thank you so much for that photo! That is really helpful! That shows exactly what I needed to know, thanks!
I had figured it would be more difficult to not only wire the suit, but put on and remove individual pieces of the armor if it had a centralized power supply for everything. I had thought about using quick-connects for each piece of armor, but not sure if it would really be worth it in the end. The only real advantage is having one power supply that I can access and change out when necessary instead of several. I was thinking that would be better, but now I'm not so sure. Would you have any input on that?
I had figured it would be more difficult to not only wire the suit, but put on and remove individual pieces of the armor if it had a centralized power supply for everything. I had thought about using quick-connects for each piece of armor, but not sure if it would really be worth it in the end. The only real advantage is having one power supply that I can access and change out when necessary instead of several. I was thinking that would be better, but now I'm not so sure. Would you have any input on that?
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Sounds like what GlennTech and me were attempting with an undersuit.
Undersuit Halo Reach (wip)
The idea being that the undersuit would have all the wiring sewn in, then each armor piece would have quick connects to wire in. Allows for a centralized battery on the wrist/arm mounted tacpad. Each section of lights and fans can be turned on and off with a press of a button on the tacpad.
Would take a few extra minutes to put on an armor suit and the batteries would die faster, but it sounds really cool.
Getting excited talking about this again, need to poke Glenn into coming back from vacation so we can continue working on it.
Undersuit Halo Reach (wip)
The idea being that the undersuit would have all the wiring sewn in, then each armor piece would have quick connects to wire in. Allows for a centralized battery on the wrist/arm mounted tacpad. Each section of lights and fans can be turned on and off with a press of a button on the tacpad.
Would take a few extra minutes to put on an armor suit and the batteries would die faster, but it sounds really cool.
Getting excited talking about this again, need to poke Glenn into coming back from vacation so we can continue working on it.
Doctor Napkin
Member
What could be used to even diffuse an LED? Also, what are the general formulas to calculate necessary voltage, ohms, and resistors?
You can use fine Sandpaper to diffuse an LED. If you have them, the Dremel finishing buffs will work great. You can also buy diffused LEDs in the first place
The "general formula" you're looking for is Ohm's law.
That will change its brightness, not diffuse it.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
ventrue,
Easy way to tell if a LED is diffused or not, diffused ones are colored or milky for white. Non-diffused LEDs are clear, regardless of the LED color.
Doctor Napkin,
They are correct, there is a detailed guide a few pages back in this thread. Here's a link to page 8.
LED Resister Selection - HOW TO
Adding a diffuser over top an LED to get an even glow is tricky, best to do some experimentation to get the lighting effect you want. However, the best I have seen is to take some thin clear plastic shaped to the size of your opening and cover it with a VERY thin layer of white paint.
Another good method of diffusing, CD case covers!
LED Halo Armor Tutorial - 405th Master Chief Lights
active84u,
You can wire your LEDs that way, but your resister will have to be a larger wattage (fatter) and may need to be an impossibly small resistance. Use this for the math, last calculator on the page; 4.5 volts supply, 3.3 volts drop, 20 milliamps current, 3 LEDs connected.
LED Resistor Calculator
1/4 watt and either 22 ohms or 18 ohms. Not sure if you can find a resister this size at radio shack
Easy way to tell if a LED is diffused or not, diffused ones are colored or milky for white. Non-diffused LEDs are clear, regardless of the LED color.
Doctor Napkin,
They are correct, there is a detailed guide a few pages back in this thread. Here's a link to page 8.
LED Resister Selection - HOW TO
Adding a diffuser over top an LED to get an even glow is tricky, best to do some experimentation to get the lighting effect you want. However, the best I have seen is to take some thin clear plastic shaped to the size of your opening and cover it with a VERY thin layer of white paint.
Another good method of diffusing, CD case covers!
LED Halo Armor Tutorial - 405th Master Chief Lights
active84u,
You can wire your LEDs that way, but your resister will have to be a larger wattage (fatter) and may need to be an impossibly small resistance. Use this for the math, last calculator on the page; 4.5 volts supply, 3.3 volts drop, 20 milliamps current, 3 LEDs connected.
LED Resistor Calculator
1/4 watt and either 22 ohms or 18 ohms. Not sure if you can find a resister this size at radio shack
I know
The way I understood it, Napkin has a clear LED and wants to turn it into a diffused one for some reason.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
:cool .I know
Doctor Napkin
Member
Thanks for the help fellas.
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